Price on gears and install?
save your money and buy a 12 bolt. i wish i had. ive had nothing but problems after my install(ive had to have it done twice) and the thing still leaks a little. ive wasted well over $1000 on this junky 10 bolt. 
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
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Just make sure whatever shop installs the gears knows what the F#ck their doing. I had the same problem luvmeZ28 had. I had nothing but problems after my 10 bolt gear change(And the motor was stock!) You can try to make it last a little longer by getting a TA Girdle Diff Cover but it's only a matter of time !
expect to pay every bit of 500 for the set and the installation, if its less than that, its like getting a mako paint job 
if you have a 6 speed, its not worth it, save for a 12 bolt. if you have an automatic, (which i'm guessing you have), the 3.73's would be alright for quite some time, as the 4l60e is alot more forgiving
if you have a 6 speed, its not worth it, save for a 12 bolt. if you have an automatic, (which i'm guessing you have), the 3.73's would be alright for quite some time, as the 4l60e is alot more forgiving
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by ULTIMATEORANGESS
i agree.these rears suck.
I would expect that 3.73s would do fine as well if it's not going to be a track car. A friend used to have an M6 LS1 with 4.10s in the stock 10-bolt and it lasted for tens of thousands of miles on the street with drag radials.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Sandwich, IL
Originally Posted by Shooter9
You dont think the 10 bolt will hold up with 3.73 gears ? I'm not looking for a drag car at the strip just like a lil street raceing. Not any real hard core dragging.
On street tires your fine on the stock 10 bolt no matter what tranny you have. Reason is you'll spin the rubber off your tires before you'll break the 10 bolt. Rear ends usually break on these cars for two reasons. One is wheel hop which is pretty easy to avoid in RWD cars. The second is a dead hooking launch that puts alot of stress on the drivetrain.
Automatics have a clear advantage here. If you apply the brake and push the gas to raise rpm's, then you're preloading the drivetrain and putting far less of a "shock" on it when you launch. This is how many guys and gals here have gotten 1.6 - 1.7 60' short times in mid to low 11 second Fbodies without breaking the rearend. A4 does not make them invincible but they do go alot farther.
Manuals however is a whole other ball game. For a competitive launch, M6 guys will do 5000 rpm clutch dumps. I've heard of plenty bolt-on (a few stock) M6 LS1's on Drag Radials breaking the 10 bolt with such a launch. If you have a Manual then you need to understand that violent launches and 10 bolts do not mix. You either need to stick with conservative launches or just save up for a stronger rearend with either 3.73's or 4.10's allready in them.
Most 10 bolts that break do it at a prepped track. So most likely you'll be fine on the street as long as you don't wheel hop. Good luck.
Last edited by darrensls1; Nov 11, 2005 at 05:38 AM.
If you're not running a real sticky tire or launching from the hole, which it doesn't sound like you'll be doing, a good install with the 3.73s, TA Girdle, and new fluid will do you fine. Expect $400 for the install kit, gears, girdle, and another $200-300 or so for the install.
People get over-cautious about the ten bolt. If you treat it right, set the gears up correctly and keep your fluid FULL there is no reason why it shouldn't last a decent amount of time. I put 4.10's into my 350hp M6 car and I put 3.73's into my bf's 500+hp M6 car. We race our cars every week mercilessly with 4,500 rpm launches and drag radials and have no problems. Yes theoretically a 10 bolt will be weaker than a 12 but who cares? You don't have 700 hp, skinnies up front and slicks out the back so don't worry about it. And if you break a gearset, big deal, another one is $200 and a few hours of your time.
Labor varies from $250-$500 depending on your area.
Labor varies from $250-$500 depending on your area.
Hm....I am thinking of getting 4.10 gears for my M6, and I was looking at that package deal that Thunder Racing offers for 399 which includes the gears, install kit, ta cover with stud kit and fluid. They either have the Motive gears or the Strange gears which cost 35 bucks more.....I am guessing that's the better choice?
What's the difference between a 2 and 3 series carrier and which one should I get?
Manny
What's the difference between a 2 and 3 series carrier and which one should I get?
Manny
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
Hm....I am thinking of getting 4.10 gears for my M6, and I was looking at that package deal that Thunder Racing offers for 399 which includes the gears, install kit, ta cover with stud kit and fluid. They either have the Motive gears or the Strange gears which cost 35 bucks more.....I am guessing that's the better choice?
What's the difference between a 2 and 3 series carrier and which one should I get?
Manny
What's the difference between a 2 and 3 series carrier and which one should I get?
Manny
..... but i would save for a 12 bolt if i was you, i know it sounds nice and great and cheap and wonderfull to have 4.10 gears put in your 10 bolt, but you will be on borrowed time, biting your nails, and spending money on a 12 bolt later
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
2 series carrier is for 3.23 and less (numerically), while 3 series is 3.42 and higher (numerically). when you decrease the gear (numerically), the physical size of the pinion grows and the ring gear becomes thinner, requiring the 2 series carrier to be a bit offset (away from pinion center) such that a thicker ring gear can still be used and line up with the pinion in the right place. if you want a 3.73 for a 2 series, it will be a "thick gear", or you will need a "thin gear" AND a spacer, to go between the carrier and the ring gear.
..... but i would save for a 12 bolt if i was you, i know it sounds nice and great and cheap and wonderfull to have 4.10 gears put in your 10 bolt, but you will be on borrowed time, biting your nails, and spending money on a 12 bolt later
..... but i would save for a 12 bolt if i was you, i know it sounds nice and great and cheap and wonderfull to have 4.10 gears put in your 10 bolt, but you will be on borrowed time, biting your nails, and spending money on a 12 bolt later
Wow, this **** gets complicated!
I have been reading about how guys break their 10 bolts, especially in manual tranny cars like mine, but that usually happens at the drag strip with real sticky rubber and some 5000 rpm clutch dumps or any other kind of launches. I don't do that to my car, I do my mods for weird reasons.....for example, to me the cam and headers and the exhaust are just so it sounds better, the added power is just a welcome by product. My torque arm and LCA's I only put on to avoid wheel hop so my stock 10 bolt would last longer. I never launch my car....the 315's are strictly for looks too...lol, eventhough they serve the function of better traction. Seeing how easily I can burn them up even from 30 mph roll, makes me wonder how my stock wheels and tires would fair right now.
My reasoning for the 4.10 gears is 1. Added fun to drive, 2. it's time for a rear end fluid change, and 3. The whole thing comes in a package which also includes the TA cover so that should protect the rear even more.
No hard launches for my car, never been to the drag strip, probably will never take it there either, so....what do you think.....knowing how my car gets used, think the 10 bolt is still gonna break anytime soon with what I have planned?
Manny
I dropped a 3.42 into my rear end, picked up new fliud, girdle, preload studs, all the necessary bearings, shims etc.
All in all it cost me out the door around $700 having someone do it "on the side." At the local shops here it would have been closer to $900 when it was all done.
Cheapest and easiest way is to buy a 3.42 rear from one of the M6 guys that is upgrading to a 12 bolt. Just make sure you get one that matches yours regarding Traction control.
I take my car to the track, and spray the **** out of it, but it is an A4. I'm going to be doing some tuning before too terribly long, after I put the suspension components on in a week or so to prevent wheel hop.
All in all it cost me out the door around $700 having someone do it "on the side." At the local shops here it would have been closer to $900 when it was all done.
Cheapest and easiest way is to buy a 3.42 rear from one of the M6 guys that is upgrading to a 12 bolt. Just make sure you get one that matches yours regarding Traction control.
I take my car to the track, and spray the **** out of it, but it is an A4. I'm going to be doing some tuning before too terribly long, after I put the suspension components on in a week or so to prevent wheel hop.
Originally Posted by keliente
2 series carrier is for 2.73s and smaller. A 3.23 car is still a 3 series.
2 series carrier is for 3.08s and smaller. A 3.23 car is still a 3 series.
None that I'm aware of, however, it may be hard for some of us to believe, but GM did make vehicles other than F-bodies, which also have the same differential f-bodies do.
I was just clarifying a point so someone wouldn't think that 2.73 was the cut off between series 2 and series 3 carriers. Granted in a 4th gen f-body that is a true statement, however it is not true for all GM vehicles.
(If you were only referring to f-bodies, no 4th gen f-bodies ever came with a series 2 carrier that I know of, other than a 2.73 so you wouldn't have to specify that 2.73 and numerically lower.)
I was just clarifying a point so someone wouldn't think that 2.73 was the cut off between series 2 and series 3 carriers. Granted in a 4th gen f-body that is a true statement, however it is not true for all GM vehicles.
(If you were only referring to f-bodies, no 4th gen f-bodies ever came with a series 2 carrier that I know of, other than a 2.73 so you wouldn't have to specify that 2.73 and numerically lower.)