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Need help on 9" rear setup! Shortened axles, etc.

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Old 01-15-2006, 11:28 PM
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Arrow Need help on 9" rear setup! Shortened axles, etc.

I'm looking to buy a Billingsley Racing fabricated 9". The car is a street car, and I'm going to start researching the tru-trac setup from Detroit Locker.

I'm also looking at shortening the axle tubes. Do most people go approx. 1" shorter on each side?

I'm going to redo my iForged wheels, and go with a big dish. I'm running an 18x10 out back with a 295/35/18 Pilot Sport tire. I know people out there have done this before, but I don't want to do a mini tub or anything of that sort.

I basically need help on how to set this rearend up. I'm going to give Billingsley a call one of these days, but would like some advise first.

I haven't done any measuring yet, but should have the fenders rolled one of these coming weeks. That will take care of the outside fender issues. I've forgotten how much room I have on the inside, but figure theres some room to play.

Oh, and one more thing, the car is lowered over two inches. Anybody know how doable this is?

Any input from you guys is always MUCH appreciated.

Rob

Last edited by BAD ASS TA WS6; 01-15-2006 at 11:39 PM.
Old 01-16-2006, 11:51 AM
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Great minds think alike. I am planing to buy a fabbed 9 from billingsley as well and waiting to hear back from iforged for a quote on a set of aero's but, also about my filiment issue. I plan to run 18x12's in back and most likey looking to chop the axle 1'' on each side. The rear wheels are going to run a 4'' lip. I'm still waiting to hear back from iforged, it's been over a week. I suck at the filment thing so, I too need some advice from some experienced members, I want it done right the first time. I can't do this twice $
p.s. the 9 will raise the back 1-2''
Old 01-16-2006, 02:47 PM
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The 9" should raise the car no more than an inch. I've got a full coil over setup valved for the street. So I'll go as low as I can, until the axles start hitting LOL

I'll be honest though, you are going to have a HARD *** time getting an 18x12 wheel to fit in a lowered car. What's that a 335 tire?

My 18x10s rub the outside fender at stock height. As of now, the wheels aren't even able to be put on the car. But like I said above, my car is spanked over 2".

I've seen a few people mini tub these cars, but thats not what I'm looking at doing. This should be a nasty setup, but I was hoping for a little more input from the rearend forum pros.
Old 01-16-2006, 08:17 PM
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TTT for the night. Obviously search is down, so I'm kinda SOL here.
Old 01-17-2006, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BAD *** TA WS6
TTT for the night. Obviously search is down, so I'm kinda SOL here.
I have a 9" from Moser, shortened 1", 1/2" in on each side.
Im runnung a 325 on a 11" rim with a 42mm offset.
Fenders are rolled, inner wheel well is hammered the **** out of.
You want to run a deeper dish rim; do 1" shortened each side, 2" total THEN run about a 28" offset 11" rim. BUT I dont know IF your calipers are going to fit snug. (and you better check first!) To fit all of this under there you will need a adj. phr to center the wheels in the well.

Here is the problem. I'm only 1" to 1 1/2" dropped and the bracket for the tk arm on the 9" hits the floor over big bumps. I'm not sure about the Bullingsley bracket it may be smaller. The Moser one is a huge chunk of cast iron. I heard the currie one is a steel plate. The tk arm also rubs in the tunnel a bit.
At a 2" drop yours might sit in the back seat. Get the b.f.h. ready.

I posted about this last week.
Old 01-17-2006, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TTSSZ
I have a 9" from Moser, shortened 1", 1/2" in on each side.
Im runnung a 325 on a 11" rim with a 42mm offset.
Fenders are rolled, inner wheel well is hammered the **** out of.
You want to run a deeper dish rim; do 1" shortened each side, 2" total THEN run about a 28" offset 11" rim. BUT I dont know IF your calipers are going to fit snug. (and you better check first!) To fit all of this under there you will need a adj. phr to center the wheels in the well.

Here is the problem. I'm only 1" to 1 1/2" dropped and the bracket for the tk arm on the 9" hits the floor over big bumps. I'm not sure about the Bullingsley bracket it may be smaller. The Moser one is a huge chunk of cast iron. I heard the currie one is a steel plate. The tk arm also rubs in the tunnel a bit.
At a 2" drop yours might sit in the back seat. Get the b.f.h. ready.

I posted about this last week.
I must have missed it. I looked at most of the current posts in the section. Hmm, so once I narrow it 2", I'm going to be looking at issues with the brakes huh? That sucks, because I'm going with the $7k Mov-It system, with HUGE calipers in the rear. Damn it!

I'm not looking to do an 11" wheel, so that is where I hope to gain some extra room. I'll be doing 2 more sets of iForged wheels with custom offsets. A 19" for bling factor, obviously smaller width, and another set of 18x10s with a 4" lip.

I've already got all the suspension. Everything is aluminum, and double adjustable. So I'm good on that point. What torque arm are you running? Right now I've got a non adjustable LGM one, but that won't be the setup with the 9". I may, or may not go floor mounted. The problem with this, is that I'm already running a subframe/vbrace/driveshaft loop integrated setup.

If I find it necessary, I'll probably end up ditching this setup, and going with something to allow for more room. Only downfall is that the current setup has really stiffened up the chassis.

The car already scrapes every raise/crack in the road bigger than 3/4". So eventually I will have to raise it. But for now, I'll let it scrape.

Thanks so much for the info, keep it coming!

Rob
Old 01-17-2006, 06:34 PM
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The calipers may fit, I just said double check that they will befor ordering anything.
Old 01-17-2006, 10:52 PM
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Good deal, thanks again for all your help. You've noted some very valid points, that I had over looked.

Rob
Old 01-22-2006, 09:55 PM
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TTT, anyone else want to step in?
Old 01-23-2006, 04:16 PM
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I must have missed it. I looked at most of the current posts in the section. Hmm, so once I narrow it 2", I'm going to be looking at issues with the brakes huh? That sucks, because I'm going with the $7k Mov-It system, with HUGE calipers in the rear. Damn it!
$7000 holy ****. I didn't find any info on the rears on mov it's website. I was also interested in mov it but, looks like zee germanz over dezigned again ! at least for that kind of $$$. lets keep this tread going EXPERTS PLEASE
Old 01-23-2006, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1king000
$7000 holy ****. I didn't find any info on the rears on mov it's website. I was also interested in mov it but, looks like zee germanz over dezigned again ! at least for that kind of $$$. lets keep this tread going EXPERTS PLEASE
Yeah they are THE big dog setup. They do list a rear caliper on their website I believe. I had a line on a dealer that I had an in with, but they aren't carrying Mov It anymore. They've switched to stoptech...

So, I'm still looking to pull a few strings and get that price down. Regardless, I'm seriously interested in the kit, it's finding a US dealer that's the hard part. And finding one I have an in with, is even harder.

As far as this thread, there hasn't been much help. Which sucks....

However, Billingsley should be returning my call soon. And I'm already all squared away with iForged for my two new sets of wheels
Old 02-04-2006, 03:25 PM
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Hey man wonder if ya heard back from billingsley? What size wheels are you getting? Love your seneka's, going bigger or wider or both?
Old 02-13-2006, 03:54 PM
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TTT OK so I talked to billingsley today and the only problem I am coming up with is that the fabbed 9" shortened 2", with the true trac will only allow me to go with 31 spline axles. Was wondering if anyone had insight to what kinda of LSD would work for 900HP/900TQ. Billingsley told me that the true trac and only 31 spline would limit my goals.




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