When will my 10 bolt break?
05-18-2007, 02:49 AM
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I ran 160k miles on my stock 3.42 10 bolt w/M6. Few mods, though (alum. driveshaft, centerforce clutch, msd wires, and a k&n filter... go ahead and laugh). Then I shredded the pinion pulling out into some heavy traffic. Now I'm 25k into a richmond 3.73 set of gears... and they are LOUD! Thinking about a Moser 12 bolt or 9" after I hit 200k and drop this ls1 for an ls6 service engine.
06-02-2007, 12:50 AM
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What is an estimate on a 9" or 12-bolt set-up? It would help if I could get a ballpark for just the parts as well as the labor involved. Those that have had this done please speak up. I may plan on doing this down the road. Thanks.
07-11-2007, 07:55 AM
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My 12 bolt install was about $2.5K. My friend and I did the paint and install. Then I paid an alignment shop to align the rear (adjustable lower control arms and panhard bar). The alignment was about 100(on top of the 2.5k) including aligning the front.
My 10 bolt broke in late April.
My 10 bolt broke in late April.
07-22-2007, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FieroZ34
I'm worried.
The rear end on our SS has started to make some abnormal noise when turning or traveling slowly, and I think it's the axle. The car is a 2002 SS M6, with every SLP option (CME, SLP lid, Auburn Diff, Bilstien suspension, etc). The car has just over 12,000 miles. It has never been to a track, and won't likely go to a track under our ownership. And it is babied on the street, with every way, shape, and form of the word. But when I do run it hard, I run it hard, very hard. I enjoy letting the back end fall out of place off the line, around turns, into 2nd, and into 3rd. If I go WOT, which is rare but happens, I go to redline, and slam the next gear hard. So when I do drive hard, it's very hard.
Anyways, the rear end is starting to make a little bit of noise. It isn't much, but on a car as otherwise flawless as this, I noticed it. I still have a warranty on the car, good for just under another year. If/when it does finally break, should I just have it replaced under warranty? Or should I put an aftermarket unit in it that I won't break? The problem here is that the car won't ever have more than the 345hp it's got. It will never get a K&N, heads, cam, or anything like that. So upgrading to a 12-bolt seems like a waste of money, especially if it doesn't drive like a stock piece (No noise, not a posi, etc). I'm not too versed on rear ends, if that isn't obvious yet.
So what would be the best option for a stock car that is very rarely driven hard, but when it is driven hard, making more power than every other stock F-body, it's driven very hard?
The rear end on our SS has started to make some abnormal noise when turning or traveling slowly, and I think it's the axle. The car is a 2002 SS M6, with every SLP option (CME, SLP lid, Auburn Diff, Bilstien suspension, etc). The car has just over 12,000 miles. It has never been to a track, and won't likely go to a track under our ownership. And it is babied on the street, with every way, shape, and form of the word. But when I do run it hard, I run it hard, very hard. I enjoy letting the back end fall out of place off the line, around turns, into 2nd, and into 3rd. If I go WOT, which is rare but happens, I go to redline, and slam the next gear hard. So when I do drive hard, it's very hard.
Anyways, the rear end is starting to make a little bit of noise. It isn't much, but on a car as otherwise flawless as this, I noticed it. I still have a warranty on the car, good for just under another year. If/when it does finally break, should I just have it replaced under warranty? Or should I put an aftermarket unit in it that I won't break? The problem here is that the car won't ever have more than the 345hp it's got. It will never get a K&N, heads, cam, or anything like that. So upgrading to a 12-bolt seems like a waste of money, especially if it doesn't drive like a stock piece (No noise, not a posi, etc). I'm not too versed on rear ends, if that isn't obvious yet.
So what would be the best option for a stock car that is very rarely driven hard, but when it is driven hard, making more power than every other stock F-body, it's driven very hard?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/753637-what-happened-your-ss-camaro-17k.html
07-24-2007, 08:37 AM
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LS6 Intake
Ported Throttlebody
Comp Cam 224/230 581/592 114LSA
SLP LT Headers
SLP Ypipe
Flowmaster Catback
Spec Stage 3 clutch
(The car I am purchasing)
Is that setup okay for daily driving on a 10 bolt, 4.10 setup?
Ported Throttlebody
Comp Cam 224/230 581/592 114LSA
SLP LT Headers
SLP Ypipe
Flowmaster Catback
Spec Stage 3 clutch
(The car I am purchasing)
Is that setup okay for daily driving on a 10 bolt, 4.10 setup?
07-30-2007, 11:05 PM
#71
i run a M6 10 bolt, made 587 rwhp on 150 shot (heads/cam ect) i blew the 10 bolt to hell once, then bought a Detroit truetrac and a set of moser axles (around 500 for both) along with a set of richmond 4.10's. ive been leaving hard and cutting 1.50 60's for a while now... yet to have any problems out of it. if i do, i will replace with a 12 bolt. however, if it aint broke, dont fix it....
08-29-2007, 10:50 PM
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I have a 2000 z/28 with an A4, 2.73 rear, a few minor mods (lid, ftra, borla exhaust) and I have a 100 shot dry nitrous setup. I want to know what kind of tires I can put on the rear and be able to launch without snapping the stock 10 bolt. I am curious about either nitto drag radials or BFG G-force R1 tires. I do not plan on spraying the nitrous off the line, so I just want to know if on average my rear will hold up with those types of tires at launch, or should I just stick to the BFG g-force KDW tires that I have now?
I know that there are many variables involved, but for an automatic launching at WOT with sticky tires, would that break the rear? Any input would be appreciated.
I know that there are many variables involved, but for an automatic launching at WOT with sticky tires, would that break the rear? Any input would be appreciated.
09-11-2007, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by FieroZ34
I'm worried.
The rear end on our SS has started to make some abnormal noise when turning or traveling slowly, and I think it's the axle. The car is a 2002 SS M6, with every SLP option (CME, SLP lid, Auburn Diff, Bilstien suspension, etc). The car has just over 12,000 miles. It has never been to a track, and won't likely go to a track under our ownership. And it is babied on the street, with every way, shape, and form of the word. But when I do run it hard, I run it hard, very hard. I enjoy letting the back end fall out of place off the line, around turns, into 2nd, and into 3rd. If I go WOT, which is rare but happens, I go to redline, and slam the next gear hard. So when I do drive hard, it's very hard.
Anyways, the rear end is starting to make a little bit of noise. It isn't much, but on a car as otherwise flawless as this, I noticed it. I still have a warranty on the car, good for just under another year. If/when it does finally break, should I just have it replaced under warranty? Or should I put an aftermarket unit in it that I won't break? The problem here is that the car won't ever have more than the 345hp it's got. It will never get a K&N, heads, cam, or anything like that. So upgrading to a 12-bolt seems like a waste of money, especially if it doesn't drive like a stock piece (No noise, not a posi, etc). I'm not too versed on rear ends, if that isn't obvious yet.
So what would be the best option for a stock car that is very rarely driven hard, but when it is driven hard, making more power than every other stock F-body, it's driven very hard?
The rear end on our SS has started to make some abnormal noise when turning or traveling slowly, and I think it's the axle. The car is a 2002 SS M6, with every SLP option (CME, SLP lid, Auburn Diff, Bilstien suspension, etc). The car has just over 12,000 miles. It has never been to a track, and won't likely go to a track under our ownership. And it is babied on the street, with every way, shape, and form of the word. But when I do run it hard, I run it hard, very hard. I enjoy letting the back end fall out of place off the line, around turns, into 2nd, and into 3rd. If I go WOT, which is rare but happens, I go to redline, and slam the next gear hard. So when I do drive hard, it's very hard.
Anyways, the rear end is starting to make a little bit of noise. It isn't much, but on a car as otherwise flawless as this, I noticed it. I still have a warranty on the car, good for just under another year. If/when it does finally break, should I just have it replaced under warranty? Or should I put an aftermarket unit in it that I won't break? The problem here is that the car won't ever have more than the 345hp it's got. It will never get a K&N, heads, cam, or anything like that. So upgrading to a 12-bolt seems like a waste of money, especially if it doesn't drive like a stock piece (No noise, not a posi, etc). I'm not too versed on rear ends, if that isn't obvious yet.
So what would be the best option for a stock car that is very rarely driven hard, but when it is driven hard, making more power than every other stock F-body, it's driven very hard?
09-11-2007, 05:00 PM
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It's much appreciated tomozey. Unfortunately, you may have been right. Here is the cliffnotes of what happened to my perfect condition, completely loaded out F-body (Retail $47,000).
Hey guys. Long story short, 250 miles after a General Motors rear end service on my 17,000 mile 02 SS 35th Anniv LE/M6, the car broke the pinion shaft, destroying the driveshaft, differential, housing, ring gears, and a lot of other crap. GM had a regional engineer look at it, and he conveniently decided that it was not their fault, that we ran it out of fluid (If someone could explain how this happens at 17,000 miles with not a drop of fluid in my garage I'd love it). The warranty company then decided that they still think it was GMs fault, so they won't pay for it either. I took the car to what I thought was a reputable differential shop, and $4800 later, I have my car back. Kind of. It's needed to go back every week for the past month because it still isn't half the car it was when I bought it at 12,000 miles. It's had 4 different diffs in it since.
The stock differential was the SLP Auburn yellow spring.
First he put in a SLP differential. This one howled like crazy, so I brought it back and he ordered an Eaton differential for it. Eaton sent the wrong one, and the right one is on back order. So then he put in an "Auburn Gold Series." As of right now, I don't know who to trust. Is this differential as good or better than my stock Auburn?
The car is a stock 345hp car, and it won't ever be modified, and probably won't ever see the track. Will this differential handle the factory power though the 275 BF Goodrich tires? If not, what's the best 10 bolt I can run?
Hey guys. Long story short, 250 miles after a General Motors rear end service on my 17,000 mile 02 SS 35th Anniv LE/M6, the car broke the pinion shaft, destroying the driveshaft, differential, housing, ring gears, and a lot of other crap. GM had a regional engineer look at it, and he conveniently decided that it was not their fault, that we ran it out of fluid (If someone could explain how this happens at 17,000 miles with not a drop of fluid in my garage I'd love it). The warranty company then decided that they still think it was GMs fault, so they won't pay for it either. I took the car to what I thought was a reputable differential shop, and $4800 later, I have my car back. Kind of. It's needed to go back every week for the past month because it still isn't half the car it was when I bought it at 12,000 miles. It's had 4 different diffs in it since.
The stock differential was the SLP Auburn yellow spring.
First he put in a SLP differential. This one howled like crazy, so I brought it back and he ordered an Eaton differential for it. Eaton sent the wrong one, and the right one is on back order. So then he put in an "Auburn Gold Series." As of right now, I don't know who to trust. Is this differential as good or better than my stock Auburn?
The car is a stock 345hp car, and it won't ever be modified, and probably won't ever see the track. Will this differential handle the factory power though the 275 BF Goodrich tires? If not, what's the best 10 bolt I can run?
09-11-2007, 08:21 PM
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how is that not there fault. ******* car dealers are as hoes. lol dude everytime i take my car anywere and get it worked one i make sure i can watch what they doing. its my money getting spent. and i know what you mean by them saying thats not our fault. but guess what you got the work order from the job. its there fault. i would call g.m 1 800 number and raise some hell. that sucks. you know i was just saying that becasue my dads chevy avalange has 25k on it and its a 2003 and he has had some problems because he dosent drive it all the time. but since i hoped in it pushed the gas towed my jet ski the truck began to wake up. lol
09-15-2007, 02:04 PM
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http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...grade_install/
My b4c does not have the upgrade but I have seen a couple of guys with rears out of 70-81 camaro or firebird. Supposedly one of em rebuilt it with and had less than 50 bucks in it. He ran 10.50s all day long......... I don't know how it bolts up and the brakes work but it probably wouldn't be all that hard to do.
Maybe the 12 or the 9 has been overhyped a tad.
My b4c does not have the upgrade but I have seen a couple of guys with rears out of 70-81 camaro or firebird. Supposedly one of em rebuilt it with and had less than 50 bucks in it. He ran 10.50s all day long......... I don't know how it bolts up and the brakes work but it probably wouldn't be all that hard to do.
Maybe the 12 or the 9 has been overhyped a tad.
09-18-2007, 05:28 PM
#78
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i dont get why people are trying to justify the 10-bolt. not ******* it or anything but it stats the lucky ones can survive the high horse power. not all ill break, just dont go trying to push it and wonder why it broke.
