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Parnoid with drag radials now.

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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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Default Parnoid with drag radials now.

I am about to order drag radials, Nitto555R's.

I was told from a couple F-bodies guys before I go to the track with a tire, to change the driveshaft.

To be blunt he said it is ****. He said the rearend should be fine if you don't launch too hard but he said replace the driveshaft with a chromoly for 300bux, it should be your next mod.

Well since the wheels and tires I bought, I am pretty much tapped out.

So question is, you guys think I will be alright for a few runs with the nitto's? She held up fine with the GS-C's, and a 2.35 60', I was bogging off the line because I was afraid i was going to break something.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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you'll be fine
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1muscle
you'll be fine

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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 10:20 PM
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You should be nervous. A 10 bolt can grenade at any time...now add in drag radials to that equation and you are only making things worse. Good luck! Some people break them on stock tires others get lucky on sticky tires, either way plan ahead and have a ride home!

I would be putting money towards a new rear end before a driveshaft.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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Driveshaft should be fine but I lost my rear on my 3rd track pass after putting on my DRs.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 11:10 PM
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I would leave the weaker driveshaft, that way, if you break something, maybe you get lucky and break the driveshaft instead of your 10 bolt
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 98 Raptor TA
I would leave the weaker driveshaft, that way, if you break something, maybe you get lucky and break the driveshaft instead of your 10 bolt
Better get a driveshaft loop then!

When my driveshaft busted, it ripped a whole in my floorboard and bent the shaft in half. The middle of the bent shaft was still spinning and hit in the middle of my transmission tunnel right under my center console. Guess what? It shattered my console too!

I'm not doing any fancy driving again until I get a loop. I can gaurantee you that much!
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 12:07 AM
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busted my 10 bolt twice on the street,last time was this past weekend and I didnt even have the nitrous turned on,so I am ordering a 9" moser.
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Studytime
Better get a driveshaft loop then!

When my driveshaft busted, it ripped a whole in my floorboard and bent the shaft in half. The middle of the bent shaft was still spinning and hit in the middle of my transmission tunnel right under my center console. Guess what? It shattered my console too!

I'm not doing any fancy driving again until I get a loop. I can gaurantee you that much!
Never heard of this loop yet, what is it and what is the damage.

Also, I take it you had a Steel driveshaft?
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 06:49 AM
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It's just a loop that the driveshaft goes through. If it breaks, it keeps the shaft from going everywhere and chopping up the bottom of your car. They are like $50 I think.
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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your stock drive shaft is stronger than your 10 bolt would ever dream of being!
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 10:57 AM
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I bent the **** out of my stock driveshaft on the street without DR's.
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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Default safety loop

i have a slp loop that cost $100. they say if your shaft breaks it can pole vault the car. pretty dangerous if your going over 100mph. that was my first mod.
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 12:22 PM
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Ever seen myth busters haha. They tested that out and it wasn't true. You will break your 10-bolt long before you break the driveshaft. However a safety loop is a must if you are going to be on sticky tires. People have died from the driveshaft coming up through the floor.
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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you'll be fine. just from family cars, seems that the spyder gears break first. or with a torsion the carrier seems to break.
mine held up fine with 4.10s and 100 or more drag radial passes(auto)
then first run with the converter in it broke the torsion.
my dad's 6speed firehawk with 4.30s held up fine with stock tires.
he went back with a new clutch(Forget what kind) and drag radials and it snapped the driveshaft in half and broke the spyder gears all at once
my brothers auto 01 ws6 broke his torsion on eagle f1s at the track and it's stock.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 01:45 AM
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You guys are convincing me not to run drag radials.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 07:56 AM
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it is rollin the dice with a 6-speed. I'm gettin my rear rebuilt next week cause I toasted it @ the track on 274/40/17 KDWS tires. I might make 1 or 2 passes to try for a new best since I have a few new mods, but then I'm not goin back to the track until I get a 12-bolt.
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Old Aug 11, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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Well I do not feel so bad after reading this post. After putting together a new 383 I have broken the rear twice in 3000 miles. I am also running Nitto's 555r 335X30X18 First I broke the Auburn Posi Pro (1 tooth off each pinion spider) and last weekend I sheared 3 teeth off the Pinion. Ran 2 different LS1's, walked both of them fairly easy but on the way home I heard noise coming from the rear and 2 blocks later it was smoke. I had put both of these in last spring new total of 5000 miles on the auburn and richmond gears. Lessen learned if you are going to drive it aggressively at some point you will be walking or driving your beater while you wait for new parts to arrive.
My experience with u-joints versus rear end is this. I run a loop.
Original u-joints 160,000 miles
1 factory posi
on 2nd Auburn Posi Pro
2 sets of Richmond Gears (4.10)
1 new set of Motive Gears should be here Monday (4.56)
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Old Aug 11, 2006 | 05:22 PM
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i think its hit an miss, i know plenty of people here in town. who ran 315 nitto dr's for a long period of time (6 speeds) with all the bolt ons, cam, and nitrous . and there 10 bolt held up just fine. I went out to the track on hooser slicks (6 spd) and launched/slipped and mine is good ..but then mines not really a factory 10 bolt.but still.. If your guna do it, beware of the problems it could create..

Toxicta - you have alot of power lol, a 9inch hopefully is a future mod for you man
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