Over the winter (unless I'm in Afghanstan saving mod money) I plan to swap to an M6. I think I know all the parts I need. Lots of people say it's hard, I should trade my car, ect. I just don't see what would be so hard about it. These cars come with them, so it's not like it's a custom job. Is there a site with the instructions? Or could someone who has done it post what has to be done? I'm sure it's not easy, but I imagine I could get through it.

 

Trade up a-4 for m-6 .Just to change over to an o.e. style installed m-6 i.e., clutch petal ,supports center console w/shifter it would be crazy <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> The parts alone would kill ya! + your pcm & harness is a-4 it could be done but sometimes you just gotta let go man!!!

 

Well, I can buy everything I need for $1500. I have all the tools I need and a lift. What is so difficult about putting in a clutch pedal, shifter and console? PCM is a no brainer, the wiring harness is the main thing I really don't know about. I don't know, maybe I'm just not seeing something here.

 

you'll also have to reinforce the firewall since you will be adding pressure when you depress the the clutch.

 

So, an M6 car has a factory reinforced firewall, and an A4 does not? Never heard that one. If there are a bunch of modifications (cutting, welding, ect.) then I won't do it. Come on, I know someone here has done this swap.

 

11 Bravo, here is a link I found awhile back doing a search. http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm It's for 94-97 but it's still the same.

I'm going to do the swap myself later. Right know I'm looking for a way to beef up the T56 before it goes in, or looking for a manual tranny that can be modified to fit like a Jerico transmission. You will have to do some cutting on the firewall and cut a hole where the shifter will go. You will also have to do a little rewiring. To me all of that is a piece of cake. I don't know why people say it's so much trouble. Maybe if you don't know much about cars it is. Later <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

My Album!

 

Thanks, bro, that is exactly what I was looking for. It does look like a pita, which I figured, but it's not exactly mission impossible like some say. I'm sure I could do it over a 2 week vacation with help, taking my time. I see that web page has Speed Automotive listed. That's where I've been planning to buy my conversion kit. Alot cheaper than trading my car in for an M6 lol. Especially after selling my auto and Vig.

 

I can definitly be done. I wanted to do to my car as well and I went over to MTI to get some advice and found out that one of the people who worked at MTI did the job for a friend of his and he said that it was such a pain in the *** that he will never do it again.

 

I just finished the A4 to M6 swap ('00 WS6).

It's not all that bad. Here's some of the issues (in no particular order):

1) I did it with the engine in the car

2) You have to cut the dipstick tube to get it out

3) You have to remove the starter to access to converter torx head bolts....the converter has to come off with the trans (no clearance to pull the trans w/o the converter

4) Pedal set instals fine...a little tight getting it in there, around the steering column, remove the throttle pedal from the peadl assy first.

5) The pedal assy has a bracket thet comes down to where the master cylinder mounts to the firewall ..... this is your reinforcement ... AND your hole cutting template.

6) There is a plastic konck out in the inner firewall pleastic liner, where the master mounts (but no knockouts in the metal ... again, use the bracket on the pedal group as the template.

7) The master mounts to the firewall with a special "U" bolt ... from the engine side. It looks imposible to get it where it needs to go (bummer...do I have to remove the brake booster...?)...but you can just get your hand up in ther to get it in position, without removing anything.

8) Measure from the front of the bellhousing to the shifter..on the trans. Relate that measurement from the rear of the engine to the underside of the tunnel (as a starting point for the cutout.

9) remove console. Remole shifter, disconnect switches & solenoid cables. You will need to do some rewiring of the shifter swith harness. Issues include: Starter lockout, rear hatch release, cruise control, reverse lights, and your new reverse lock-out solenoid.

10) Drill out the spot welds on the auto shifter mount plate & then use a die grinder to cut it just infront of the SES module.

11) use the rubber shifter boot to figure out your cutout for the shifter.

12) You will need to have your PCM reflashed to a M6, if for nothing else, so the speedo will read correctly (M6 = 42 teeth, A4= 17 teeth). My car also had less codes showing up and ran better after the reflash.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but that's the most of it.

If you want pics or more detailed info, email me.

Gordon <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />

 

Dave at Star Clutch rold me to buy the latest OEM master cylinder & Slave (drill out the restrictor in the line while you're at it .... my clutch slipped at full throttle shifts due to the restrictor still being in place). He said not to bother with the McLeod adjustable master.

I used the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual....they were better than nothing. Again if you need actual solid info or pictures just email me.

 

Don't let everyone discourage you. It can be done. I went the other way (M6 to A4--no bashing, to each their own)...NEway, Gordon hit up most of the highlights. The pedals are definitely a PITA, (it's kinda tight in there). As for the wiring harness, I had to pick one up at a junk yard (the Auto has the wires going back to the tranny, the manual doesn't). With this in mind, you might be alright with your wiring harness (you can just trace and remove the ununsed wires). Run over to a local dealership and see if they'll give you a copy of the wiring diragrams. This should definitely help you out.

Graphite WS6: The T-56 is pretty stout as it is...the weak spot on our cars is the master/slave assembly. The plumbing just isn't up to the task.

Good luck. It'll be worth it when it's done. I know mine was!

 

i would keep the a4. we 6 speed guys can miss gears like i just did,and blow motors like i just did.now im spending $5,000 to buy a better block. if i could do it all over again, i would get an a4 with a big stall. good luck any way you go...

 

I would have stayed A4, except I do road racing.....That's what killed the original.

If you are not doing road racing....the A4 is faster & a good strong/tight one is WAYYYYY cool..

Chirping gears all over the place & all!!