solid pinion bearing shim preload question-s
01-31-2007, 07:13 PM
#1
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solid pinion bearing shim preload question-s I have a put it all together and have a choice of:
1) solid spacer with 5 thin shims = 0 to -0 preload (you can barley get any shake out of the shaft, if any. You can not feel it move, but, you can hear a little something moving around, so, I would guesstimate it is on boarder of starting to be tight.)
2) solid spacer with 4 thin shims = 40 inch pounds of preload (obviously more than you would want)
3) solid spacer with 4 thin shims = crank it down to 12 inch lbs and let the shims rattle around?
1) solid spacer with 5 thin shims = 0 to -0 preload (you can barley get any shake out of the shaft, if any. You can not feel it move, but, you can hear a little something moving around, so, I would guesstimate it is on boarder of starting to be tight.)
2) solid spacer with 4 thin shims = 40 inch pounds of preload (obviously more than you would want)
3) solid spacer with 4 thin shims = crank it down to 12 inch lbs and let the shims rattle around?
02-01-2007, 07:06 AM
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Those shims are different thicknesses...play with different combinations of the shims until you get the preload right...around 25 in-lbs for new bearings.
02-01-2007, 08:50 AM
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^what he said
get within 20-25 in-lbs on new bearings. The solid spacers should come with enough shims to get it right. Atleast the 2-3 that I've set up did.
get within 20-25 in-lbs on new bearings. The solid spacers should come with enough shims to get it right. Atleast the 2-3 that I've set up did.
02-01-2007, 09:34 AM
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Different size shims??? They all look the same, lol, hmmm, well, the only problem with that is I have to beat the **** out of the end of the pinion to get it off the front bearing. I am afraid if I whack it too much, I might not have any good bearings left, lol.
I dont like the idea of a crush sleeve cause there is NO way in hell I could crush it in my driveway under that car.
Cool, thanks all.
I dont like the idea of a crush sleeve cause there is NO way in hell I could crush it in my driveway under that car.
Cool, thanks all.
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02-01-2007, 10:00 AM
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Actually I have an air impact wrench I could use, but, if I screw up a crush sleeve, I would be sca-rewed. At leat with the solids I can play forever with the same shtuff. I have also heard solids are better for some odd reason.
02-01-2007, 10:13 AM
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use the impact on a low setting and go a little at a time, thats why you can pick up packs of 2 crush collars on the "help board" of any Autoparts store for $1.99 people screw up, becides, the preload is on the bearings where they sit in the races, not on the crush collar, technicaly, if you set the preload to tight you can just back off the nut a lil bit. The crush collar only crushes as far as the bearings sit. The reason the crush collar is longer than it has to be is meerly for inperfections in maching of the rear housing, its for lack of better terms a "gasket" if you think about it...
02-01-2007, 10:18 AM
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Yea, thats what I figure to, but, in the back of my mind (it screws around with me a lot) I will be saying............oh, chris, its just not right!!!! 
02-01-2007, 10:44 AM
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If you can find a cross section of any ring and pinion gear drive on-line somewhere (it does not necessaraly have to be automotive) worm gear driven drives do not count, you will see the purpose of the crush collar and maybe understand its functionality a little better.
02-03-2007, 01:54 PM
#12
Nobody, and I mean nobody makes a cordless 1/2" impact that will effectively crush even the pathetic little 10 bolt sleeve. Not even my Snap-On 4850...
And what's wrong with the crush sleeve?
It's failure (crushing under stress) is probably the single most common reason for gear damage.
And what's wrong with the crush sleeve?
It's failure (crushing under stress) is probably the single most common reason for gear damage. 