help with moser 12 install
help with moser 12 install so fellas, this is my first rear end install and i have hit one of several bumps in the road. I have the rear end out and the axles from the 10 bolt out. The moser says to put the caliper mount on and then the bearing with the o ring toward the caliper, then the press ring. here is the problem i am having, how do i get the bearing down around the axle where it is supposed to be? can i just use some lube and go for it? second, it doesnt look like there will be much room to tighten the bolts on the caliper mount to the housing, is there something i am missing? finally, are there any other problems that you experienced people might know of that i have not come across yet? any help would be greatly appreciated as i am trying to finish tonight before work in the am. thanks everyone.
Originally Posted by aequitas
so fellas, this is my first rear end install and i have hit one of several bumps in the road. I have the rear end out and the axles from the 10 bolt out. The moser says to put the caliper mount on and then the bearing with the o ring toward the caliper, then the press ring. here is the problem i am having, how do i get the bearing down around the axle where it is supposed to be? can i just use some lube and go for it? second, it doesnt look like there will be much room to tighten the bolts on the caliper mount to the housing, is there something i am missing? finally, are there any other problems that you experienced people might know of that i have not come across yet? any help would be greatly appreciated as i am trying to finish tonight before work in the am. thanks everyone.
Originally Posted by aequitas
so fellas, this is my first rear end install and i have hit one of several bumps in the road. I have the rear end out and the axles from the 10 bolt out. The moser says to put the caliper mount on and then the bearing with the o ring toward the caliper, then the press ring. here is the problem i am having, how do i get the bearing down around the axle where it is supposed to be? can i just use some lube and go for it? second, it doesnt look like there will be much room to tighten the bolts on the caliper mount to the housing, is there something i am missing? finally, are there any other problems that you experienced people might know of that i have not come across yet? any help would be greatly appreciated as i am trying to finish tonight before work in the am. thanks everyone.
there is room to tighten the 4 bolts after you take the e-brake off. you have to take the ebrake line off behind the backing plate. pull the e-brake disc up until it passes the flange behind the top of the ebrake. then pull the top out an push the disc down, careful not to drop the adjustment pins. i torqued the 4 bolts on the backing plate to 34 ft-lbs. anyother questions call EPP or ask us. but its probably easier just to call EPP
thanks fellas, i called my cousin last night and we used his press to get the bearing and press ring on the axle so tonight we are hoping to be able to install the axle in the housing and put everything back. however if we do run into anything ill give epp a call. thanks again
I just did a 12 bolt in a friend's LS1, slightly different from LT1's, the backing plate, bolted to the axle housing was a PITA, we did pull off the Ebrake ring/horseshoe. On my car I have 4 channel ABS so the axles have to get sent out to be machined. Fun Fun.
Good luck!
Good luck!
I milled down my caliper brackets since the top thicker section is worthless since it mounts to a thinner piece of metal. With it milled you can bolt up the t-studs once the caliper mount is pressed into place. I milled the mount even with the caliper bolt holes where they bottom out.
ls1>girlfriend, the ebrake info was very helpful, thanks for that.
I finally got everything bolted back up and i will be putting the DS back in tomorrow. I have read on here that it takes 500 miles for a break in but what im unsure of is if i need to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles, anyone know?
I finally got everything bolted back up and i will be putting the DS back in tomorrow. I have read on here that it takes 500 miles for a break in but what im unsure of is if i need to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles, anyone know?
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Originally Posted by aequitas
I have read on here that it takes 500 miles for a break in but what im unsure of is if i need to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles, anyone know?
Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
No need to change the gear lube. Bob
I drove it around 1,000 more. The removed for the LT1 to LS1 swap. I just recently drained it and it was as clean as the day it went in.
Now personally there was something making it cloudy, could be something, could be nothing. I, just like anyone else spent a good chunk of money and changing the gear lube after the 1st 500-1k can't hurt anything but maybe your wallet.
Just my opinion on my situation.
blackscreaminmachine thanks for sharing the experience and I will go ahead and check it after the break in and probably change it to be safe.
Now I am running into a clearance problem with the ORY. I have almost no clearance at the rear yoke and the ORY, maybe 1/8 in. Has anyone else ran into this? And when I tighten down the u joint it seems that it should be a little longer through the yoke on the read, its wide enough and fits fine width wise but it just doesnt seem long enough, is this normal or should it be flush with the yoke instead of the bolts? From the looks it just doesnt look like it would take to many heavy runs. And I know this is a dumb question but does 1350 refer to the width of the u joint or the length of the little nubs? When I got the u joint it was wider at two ends but equally long on all ends so I assumed I got the right one.
Now I am running into a clearance problem with the ORY. I have almost no clearance at the rear yoke and the ORY, maybe 1/8 in. Has anyone else ran into this? And when I tighten down the u joint it seems that it should be a little longer through the yoke on the read, its wide enough and fits fine width wise but it just doesnt seem long enough, is this normal or should it be flush with the yoke instead of the bolts? From the looks it just doesnt look like it would take to many heavy runs. And I know this is a dumb question but does 1350 refer to the width of the u joint or the length of the little nubs? When I got the u joint it was wider at two ends but equally long on all ends so I assumed I got the right one.
well the rear end is in and running. It was a good learning experience and I am glad I opted to do it myself. It has a little whine to it but I guess most of them do. Just wanted to thank everyone for there imput and advice, I would have been stuck alot longer and some of this stuff without it so I appreciate it.
