jdustu

iTrader: (2)

scott from dls is gonna come over to see what kind of mess ive made on friday. i was hoping to get it in without bugging him, unfortunetly i am an incompetent boob

billybadd

iTrader: (21)

Let us know how it goes. Good luck.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

i put those spacers on and they worked like a charm.....the longer end bolts worked as well with the longer bolt spacer.....

the car was off center(1/2 inch), my method of plumb bobbing became much more accurate once i used an actual plumb bob...imagine that

the driveshaft is all good in the back, but it still hits the loop up front...i think one problem is that the rear is sitting back too far, the ds doesn't seem to go into the trans as far and the knuckle part is what is hitting the loop...i put the wheels on and set the car on the ground and the rear is for sure too far back....the springs are at an angle, the wheels set back way closer to the rear of the fender.....maybe the lca brackets need to be angled more??? it seems like they are on how they should be, but what else is there to adjust in order to get the rear at the proper front/back depth???

-josh

02NBMWS6

iTrader: (22)

wish i wouldve thought to use spacers when installing my swaybar..

Bob from EPP told me to angle the swaybar brackets towards the rear to get the clearance for the swaybar against the bottom bracket for the torque arm

seems to work fine, although id like them level even better

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

i have mine angled back a bit as well, might do the spacers but for now it works alright.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

the spacers are easy...i basically just took some 5/16" x 2" aluminum flat stock and cut 4" pieces, used the poly-bushing clamp for a template for the holes and popped 3/8(i think?) holes in them...i stacked two on each side, so its basically a 5/8ths spacer.....

all thats left is figuring out whats up with the depth of the rear axle...my guess is that it has something to do with the lca brackets, we will see...

-josh

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

you might want to get a pair of adj.lca to move the rear front or back.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

that may be what i have to do. i am hoping i can mess with the brackets enough to make it work.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

i'm pretty sure the issue now is the relocation brackets....i think if i can get them lined up properly i'll be ok......i'm goin to cut the bracket that bolts in the shock and weld them in, i just need some advice on how to line them up...i read that the holes for the lca(in both the reloc. bracket hole and the original hole) should line up in the arc that the lca makes between them.....is there anything else i need to worry about?

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

some pics in this thread in suspension....wondering what the relocation bracket hole being farther back than the stock hole is going to do.....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/712570-lca-relocation-bracket-question-pics.html

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

well here it is:


took it for the break in runs, seems to be alright so far.....i centered it front to back best i could before i welded in the lca brackets, but with everything together it seems like the drivers side is 3/8ths closer to the front....

this still concerns me:

the poly bushing on the t/a was never that far foward before the swap, it used to be right on top of the lower bolt....seems to make a bit more noise(the torque arm) than before....i don't know what to do to get that like it was, or if i even need to.

2001z

iTrader: (32)

Looks good i got mine also from scott and i love mine!!

formula98ws6

I had a s&w racecars body mounted torque arm and mine was the same. With stock rear the front looked good. With the 9 inch looked like yours.I had too cut about an inch off the back were the rod end is and the adjuster and thread holes a little deeper.I needed a 3/4x16 right hand and left hand tap.Do you have any room too move the rod ends in farther too shorten arm.

formula98ws6

Just looked at the pics.and it looks like you could possably shorten the front some.Top tube looks like direct thread tubing.But bottom tube looks to have a welded adapter.I think you will only be able to shorten in the front.You should only need a 3/4x16 right hand tap then.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

yeah, i've shortended everything up as much as possible without cutting.....i'd rather not, but i guess that'll may be an option......i've been driving it around today and the clunking is terrible when i hit the gas or go into reverse, i'm guessing its due to the t/a being too far forward....

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

i think i got it all lined up. i need to drive the car to work today because a couple fools tried to steal my truck yesterday and ended up just jacking it up, so its in the shop. this morning i went out and put on the double adjustable control arms and looked at the t/a to see what i could do to shorten it up....without doing some major refab work, cutting on it wasn't an option...i ended up taking the nuts on top at each end off, but when i re-installed it i didn't have enough pinion angle adjustment...so i ended up just leaving the nut in the front by the poly bushing off, it gave me another 3/8ths to 1/2" to work with....that, plus the adjustment in the control arms got me pretty close to where it was before.....now i gotta drive it to work and scrape it over the speed bumps...