LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I have my Moser 12 bolt and PST aluminum driveshaft. I am also getting my BMR chromemoly body mounted torque arm with Driveshaft loop installed with it.


the 12 bolr is 3.73 with the aluminum performance cover and ABS. Hopefully it wont fail on me, since I plan on doing 5-6000 RPM clutch dumps at the dragstrip with slicks. hopefully the aluminum cover is strong and wont distort.

This being said. give me every pointer and step there is to install the rearend.

how do I press in the axles? then what do I do install the wheel bearings? then brakes and pads? and what kind of fluid would I need to use for this? I drag race and track race and its a DD. Also Im gonna use red loctite on the bolts on the TA.

I just dunno the seals that I have that came with the 12 bolt set, where I install them. and Im assuming the ring and pinion are setup correctly in the housing, since the damn 12 bolt was so heavy.

Thanks for any input.

LS1>girlfriend

iTrader: (19)

take the axle's, backing plates, axle bearings and press rings to a machine shop or someone you trust with a press. remember the o-ring side of the axle bearing goes to the wheel side of the axle. put the backing plate on the correct axle then slide the axle bearing down the axle followed by the press ring, then put the pressure of the press ONLY on the press ring and press the bearing and ring down to the lip on the axle. now your bearings and backing plates are installed.
next get a seal driver and carefully punch the seals into the housing ends, the rolled side of the seal faces the wheel. punch the seal in until you think its all the way up to the lip on the insdie of the axle housing. stick your finger in there to make sure it is, be careful not to dent or damage any part of the seal while your punching it in.

now your ready to put the axles in, its a good idea to put some lube on the rubber ring of the axle seal so you dont tear it. hold the axle close to the housing and towards the end of the axle then start sliding it into the housing, try not to slide the axle on the axle seal while installing. when its almost all the way in you may have to shimmy the axle a little to get it to mate up with the splines.
after you get the splines mated up push the axle all the way in. then remove the ebrake ring on the backing plate by pulling it up and pulling the top outwards. put the 4 t-bolts in and the nuts on the other end then torque to 32ish ft-lbs. reinstall the ebrake ring the reverse of removal. reconnect the ebrake cable, put the rotors on, bolt the calipers back up and move on to the other side. easy as pie
i use napa 80-85-90w gear lube in my 12 bolt. im tired as **** and may be missing some info, you can message me if you have any other questions im here to help.

mcamarols1

iTrader: (9)

that pretty much sums it up, put it through some heat cycles while the car is on jackstands, then heat cycle it on the road. allow to cool overnight, then let her rip the next day

LS1>girlfriend

iTrader: (19)

the heat cycle info should be in the bag of literature moser sent with the rear.
just curious...which brand gears did you get?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

The gears should be made by US Gear, which is what Mopser typically uses. You should of received instructions from Moser when you received your rear. Hopefully you did. Bob

mcamarols1

iTrader: (9)

i forgot sorry and the instructions should b in there. but im just telling u what i did

LS1>girlfriend

iTrader: (19)

ive got motive gears

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

wait so tell me again. how mych gear oil?

Im using 80w 90 lucas for now and do I need LSD additive? Its a truetrac.

also tell me the correct break in procedure.

Thanks.

we have the axles in the 12 bolt and are ready to install it in the car..

onebad82z

iTrader: (1)

My recommendations within the quote.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Thanks but I think it takes 4 quarts, not 2.5

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I need help we put the backing plates on the axles wrong and now h evearings are in the way and we need to press them back off, but our press wont do it. any suggesstions?

onebad82z

iTrader: (1)

Some quick searches confirm what I already know...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=fluid+12+bolt

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=fluid+12+bolt


But what do I know with a Moser 12 bolt already in my car

LS1>girlfriend

iTrader: (19)

no need to be a smartass...he'll find out real quik it only takes 2.5 quarts



since you have a trutrak use NON synthetic oil and NO additive.
you cant press off and then press the bearings back on so you need new bearings. take it to a machine shop to have them pressed off. just make absolutly sure you have the backing plates on wrong.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Okay how is this?

I had a machine shop press them off and then back on. No problems.

I used non synthetic, but it took 4 qts and I put a good .5 qts of synthetic. It wasnt full and I needed more gear oil. That little synthetic isnt too much so proper break in sshould be just fine and I used no additional additive, but the lucas gear oil I got in a jug I think had additive already in it? I hope this doesnt F things up, but I already am leaking anyways and have issues of my own. additional to me not being able to rely on the information given to me here. No offense, but everyone is saying something different.

LS1>girlfriend

iTrader: (19)

where did you fill the moser to get 4 quarts in there? the abs sensor hole? when the rear is fully installed under the car, you remove the fill bolt and fill the rear until fluid comes out the fill hole.

shouldnt have put the synthetioc fluid in the rear. its not just for the break in process but for the trutrak to work correctly.

how did the machine shop press the bearings off? if they were pressed off by the outer race, the bearings will not last long.

good luck with the rear and dont cut too many corners. sure would suck if the rear broke from the half *** install your doing, and you came on here to bitch about it. there are instructions and procedures for a REASON!

the only one that is saying something else in this thread is you.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I dont know I wasnt present when they pressed them off.
I have very little synthetic oil in there.
I filled it from the performance aluminum cover fill hole.
The instructions they came with SUCK!
Im not bitching, Its retarded how these rearends work and how many things we had to modify to make it work. If I paid a Goddamn 2500 bucks I expect the rear to be ready to go.

I wasnt aware driveshaft bolts were changing, t bolts were changing, my swaybar brackets had to get modified to fit. Im gonna have retarded leaks randomly.
why the hell there is a fill plug on the top, when there is no need for that much oil. etc..

Thats why Im bitching, because these F body aftermarket parts are very unorganized and especially for the money you are paying for them,

WolfgangX

iTrader: (3)

for the sway bar get 3" exhaust clamps, try a new gasket and get that synthetic out of there

LS1>girlfriend

iTrader: (19)

dont even use a gasket! RTV it

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Ok, but teh cover isnt whats leaking. Its the pinion seal, where the driveshaft U joint meets. I wanna just seal around the area/lay a bead of RTV gasket around it and see if that stops it.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

we fixed the swaybar problem. I was just upset about it beinga problem period.

Will like 1/10 of it being synthetic really hurt it? maybe even less... I am changing the fluid soon anyways, but I just wanna know.

Also I have other retarded problems like my rear brakes making a noise when I make left turns. I think its the rear left brake rotor. Also my e brake sucks now.

Just many minor problems.