Rear End 101
10-14-2002, 08:53 AM
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Rear End 101 Can someone give me a brief rundown of the thing I need to know when evaluating which rear end to buy?
What are spline axles and what is the major advantage to a higher number? What do I need... 31, 33, 35?
Can someone explain the yoke? Not sure what it does and what the numbers denote.
What brand do you guys suggest? The three rears I've been looking at are the Strange 12 bolt, the Moser 12 bolt, and the Moser 9 inch. Are there any others I should be considering? Which is your favorite?
Looks takes a back seat to performance. But I've seen the 9 inch in a few bad pictures and it looked pretty rough. Any good pics of the 9 inch?
I'm an M6 Hawk looking to hit high tens in full street trim with either FI or Heads/Cam(most likely FI).
Your advice is greatly appreciated. If I've missed anything important please feel free to elaborate.
Mike B.
What are spline axles and what is the major advantage to a higher number? What do I need... 31, 33, 35?
Can someone explain the yoke? Not sure what it does and what the numbers denote.
What brand do you guys suggest? The three rears I've been looking at are the Strange 12 bolt, the Moser 12 bolt, and the Moser 9 inch. Are there any others I should be considering? Which is your favorite?
Looks takes a back seat to performance. But I've seen the 9 inch in a few bad pictures and it looked pretty rough. Any good pics of the 9 inch?
I'm an M6 Hawk looking to hit high tens in full street trim with either FI or Heads/Cam(most likely FI).
Your advice is greatly appreciated. If I've missed anything important please feel free to elaborate.
Mike B.
10-15-2002, 12:06 AM
#2
The Bull
Re: Rear End 101 Mike,
Basically you have a bunch of options. I personally chose a 12 bolt for my car. I had it powder coated black to match the underside as well as protect it from rusting.
Your axle choices will vary, but basically the number of splines can dictate two things. The first is obviously the strength. I went with a 30 spline, but many others have gone to a 33 spline. With Moser there is a big difference between the warranties on the axles and a 33 spline has a better guarantee than a 30 does if that counts for anything.
The yoke size 1310 or 1350 dictates how big the u-joint is. Both in the end cap diameters as well as distance across the caps. They come in a variety of forms, including conversion U-joints which has a small size on one side and a larger on the other. This would allow you to use a stock driveshaft with a 1350 yoke on the rear end. Basically the larger size u-joints are going to be much stronger because the cross sectional area between the caps is slightly larger. Many of the 7 second cars here run on a 1350, so it's pretty strong for most of them. In turn one 7 second car ran a 1310 and broke that u-joint recently. Basically you are just buying some added strength and it's inexpensive.
As far as look goes, the 12 bolt is obvisouly going to have a more factory look to it. Same basic diff cover. The 9" is going to be ugly looking. But you are either making a car for a car show or making a performance machine. So looks should take the back seat compared to your options. The 9" has a larger number of gear choices and you can also have a quick change gearset for a 9" if you want to have different setups.
If you want something slightly smaller JSears just put a Ford 8.8 in his TA (he just posted it late last week). It's a bit lighter and just as strong. You may want to take a look there.
Hope that helps.
Basically you have a bunch of options. I personally chose a 12 bolt for my car. I had it powder coated black to match the underside as well as protect it from rusting.
Your axle choices will vary, but basically the number of splines can dictate two things. The first is obviously the strength. I went with a 30 spline, but many others have gone to a 33 spline. With Moser there is a big difference between the warranties on the axles and a 33 spline has a better guarantee than a 30 does if that counts for anything.
The yoke size 1310 or 1350 dictates how big the u-joint is. Both in the end cap diameters as well as distance across the caps. They come in a variety of forms, including conversion U-joints which has a small size on one side and a larger on the other. This would allow you to use a stock driveshaft with a 1350 yoke on the rear end. Basically the larger size u-joints are going to be much stronger because the cross sectional area between the caps is slightly larger. Many of the 7 second cars here run on a 1350, so it's pretty strong for most of them. In turn one 7 second car ran a 1310 and broke that u-joint recently. Basically you are just buying some added strength and it's inexpensive.
As far as look goes, the 12 bolt is obvisouly going to have a more factory look to it. Same basic diff cover. The 9" is going to be ugly looking. But you are either making a car for a car show or making a performance machine. So looks should take the back seat compared to your options. The 9" has a larger number of gear choices and you can also have a quick change gearset for a 9" if you want to have different setups.
If you want something slightly smaller JSears just put a Ford 8.8 in his TA (he just posted it late last week). It's a bit lighter and just as strong. You may want to take a look there.
Hope that helps.
10-15-2002, 12:28 AM
#3
!Dial-up Director
Re: Rear End 101 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by derty:
<strong>If you want something slightly smaller JSears just put a Ford 8.8 in his TA (he just posted it late last week). </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jsears8 just posted the pics for a friend. He has a Moser 12-bolt/4:10s in his car.
<strong>If you want something slightly smaller JSears just put a Ford 8.8 in his TA (he just posted it late last week). </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jsears8 just posted the pics for a friend. He has a Moser 12-bolt/4:10s in his car.
10-15-2002, 12:30 AM
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I can shift faster than you.
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Re: Rear End 101 I forgot Justin was logged in on my computer. The above post was posted by me. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
<small>[ October 14, 2002, 12:31 PM: Message edited by: Jason99T/A ]</small>
<small>[ October 14, 2002, 12:31 PM: Message edited by: Jason99T/A ]</small>
10-15-2002, 09:54 PM
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Re: Rear End 101 The splines on the axles are the grooves cut in the end where it meets the diff. For a decent analogy, imagine picking up something heavy with a single finger, then picking up something heavy with four fingers. Which is easier, stronger, less likely to break? That's why the serious performers go with more splines on the axle.
As for the U-joint, personally, if I were putting down the kind of power some of these guys are talking about, I'd rather have a modest sized U-joint. I'd rather break a U-joint than a tailshaft or driveshaft. Of course, the goal is to never break anything, but who ever gets that lucky?
As for the U-joint, personally, if I were putting down the kind of power some of these guys are talking about, I'd rather have a modest sized U-joint. I'd rather break a U-joint than a tailshaft or driveshaft. Of course, the goal is to never break anything, but who ever gets that lucky?
10-16-2002, 02:26 AM
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Re: Rear End 101 Wow, Derty, that vwas a great explanation. Thank you, that was the very information I was looking for. Let me ask you a few more questions.
The other day I saw a 12 bolt being sold with a 1602 yoke. Is this just a huge yoke? Would a 1350 or 1602 yoke work with a stock driveshaft?
Are there other areas that I would need to beef up, or be aware of when buying a rear?
Here is a deal I saw:
***********************************************
P-12BPABS
12 bolt "bolt-in" rearend, 33 spline S/S axles, 1/2" studs, ABS ring installed, ABS sensor installed, caliper mounts, U-1602 yoke, aluminum cover, cross-over u-joint and u-bolts. Fully welded with your choice of US Strange standard gear set.
$2179.99
SSposi
Options: US/Strange 33 spline Super strength posi-unit (w/ ABS ring installed)
$325.00
TC
Options: Upgrade for cars with traction control
$150.00
gmbbp
Options: Purchase brake backing plates to be built into rear (1998-'02 only)
$170.00
*************************************************
What are some of these options? How does the aluminum cover effect the rear? is this like the TA cover for the 10 bolts? Do I need a super strong posi? What is the brake backing thing?
Thanks a bunch bro, your posts are very helpful.
Mike B.
<small>[ October 16, 2002, 02:32 AM: Message edited by: buschman ]</small>
The other day I saw a 12 bolt being sold with a 1602 yoke. Is this just a huge yoke? Would a 1350 or 1602 yoke work with a stock driveshaft?
Are there other areas that I would need to beef up, or be aware of when buying a rear?
Here is a deal I saw:
***********************************************
P-12BPABS
12 bolt "bolt-in" rearend, 33 spline S/S axles, 1/2" studs, ABS ring installed, ABS sensor installed, caliper mounts, U-1602 yoke, aluminum cover, cross-over u-joint and u-bolts. Fully welded with your choice of US Strange standard gear set.
$2179.99
SSposi
Options: US/Strange 33 spline Super strength posi-unit (w/ ABS ring installed)
$325.00
TC
Options: Upgrade for cars with traction control
$150.00
gmbbp
Options: Purchase brake backing plates to be built into rear (1998-'02 only)
$170.00
*************************************************
What are some of these options? How does the aluminum cover effect the rear? is this like the TA cover for the 10 bolts? Do I need a super strong posi? What is the brake backing thing?
Thanks a bunch bro, your posts are very helpful.
Mike B.
<small>[ October 16, 2002, 02:32 AM: Message edited by: buschman ]</small>
10-16-2002, 04:13 AM
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Re: Rear End 101 Buschman I am assuming that you have a car which has traction control and Anti-Loack Brakes, being that it is a 2000. If this is true and you want to be able to keep these options on your car you will need to go with the 12 bolt. Also you will find that the Moser rear is more common and more people have it than do the Strange. I personally have the Moser but I have not heard bad things about either. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
As far as the options I got my moser with all options for about 2350. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I have the HD Eaton Posi(you want) not a spool which is fully locked like for a race car.
I got the performance cover 1. It helps it cool better and 2. it gives it more strength also. You could never have too much strength. <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" />
I also got the upgrade to the 33 spline axles as they are stronger, remember more strength.
I personally would not pay for new backing plates already on I would use mine that are on the car. They are not hard to do at all.
I also as I mentioned in the first part of the post I got mine set up with Traction Control and ABS, so I had to take the exciter rings off my old axles and have them pressed onto my new axles. Pretty easy and Napa or someone like that can do it for you for about $35 or so. If your car does not have traction control you probably have what they call the three channel set up on your car. The easy way to tell is crawl up under there if there is a small plug on the backside of the backing plate (rear of the wheel) with two wires coming out of it right behind the axle on each wheel you have the four channel set up. If not there should be wires going into the top of the rear near center which will be the three channel set up.
Hope all of this helps but just remember if you are building more power you can never have too much strength in your rear. there is no such thing as too much. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
As far as the options I got my moser with all options for about 2350. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I have the HD Eaton Posi(you want) not a spool which is fully locked like for a race car.
I got the performance cover 1. It helps it cool better and 2. it gives it more strength also. You could never have too much strength. <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" />
I also got the upgrade to the 33 spline axles as they are stronger, remember more strength.
I personally would not pay for new backing plates already on I would use mine that are on the car. They are not hard to do at all.
I also as I mentioned in the first part of the post I got mine set up with Traction Control and ABS, so I had to take the exciter rings off my old axles and have them pressed onto my new axles. Pretty easy and Napa or someone like that can do it for you for about $35 or so. If your car does not have traction control you probably have what they call the three channel set up on your car. The easy way to tell is crawl up under there if there is a small plug on the backside of the backing plate (rear of the wheel) with two wires coming out of it right behind the axle on each wheel you have the four channel set up. If not there should be wires going into the top of the rear near center which will be the three channel set up.
Hope all of this helps but just remember if you are building more power you can never have too much strength in your rear. there is no such thing as too much. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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10-16-2002, 08:57 AM
#9
The Bull
Re: Rear End 101 I would never opt to break a u-joint. All you have to do is ask the guy who broke a 1310 why. He lost his whole motor as it blew out the bottom of the car when it let loose. Point being, do your best to prevent things from breaking. Are you going to break a 1310 in these cars above 10 seconds, most likely not.
Chad00ws6 nailed the rest of your questions.
Chad00ws6 nailed the rest of your questions.
10-16-2002, 09:26 AM
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Re: Rear End 101 OK this is good. Great post Chad.
First off, you are right, I have both Traction Control and ABS and want to keep them. So basically you are saying the 9" will not work for me?
Is a 1602 yoke bigger and better than a 1350? Or are they different configurations? Will both work with a stock drive shaft? If I up grade Drive shafts later will I need to change to a different yoke? I'm just trying to gauge if all the Driveshafts and all the yokes made for our cars will work with each other. If so, then I'm guessing the higher the yoke number the stronger it is. Correct?
John, I would but a couple of guys around my way have some horror stories. Plus I'm trying to do as much work myself as I can.
I realize that setting up the inside of the rear takes a lot of experience to get it just right. I don't even want to pretend like I'm capable of learning how to set them up. What I'm trying to figure out is if I buy the whole thing with the 4.10s and everything all setup, will I be able to just bolt it in?
Could someone explain what the brake backing plates are? What's involved with the switch? How about the ABS Exciter ring? How do I get to that?
Is Moser good about helping you out with installs? How is there warrenty?
Thanks guys,
Mike
p.s. Chad where did you get your deal? 2350 sounds like a good deal. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
First off, you are right, I have both Traction Control and ABS and want to keep them. So basically you are saying the 9" will not work for me?
Is a 1602 yoke bigger and better than a 1350? Or are they different configurations? Will both work with a stock drive shaft? If I up grade Drive shafts later will I need to change to a different yoke? I'm just trying to gauge if all the Driveshafts and all the yokes made for our cars will work with each other. If so, then I'm guessing the higher the yoke number the stronger it is. Correct?
John, I would but a couple of guys around my way have some horror stories. Plus I'm trying to do as much work myself as I can.
I realize that setting up the inside of the rear takes a lot of experience to get it just right. I don't even want to pretend like I'm capable of learning how to set them up. What I'm trying to figure out is if I buy the whole thing with the 4.10s and everything all setup, will I be able to just bolt it in?
Could someone explain what the brake backing plates are? What's involved with the switch? How about the ABS Exciter ring? How do I get to that?
Is Moser good about helping you out with installs? How is there warrenty?
Thanks guys,
Mike
p.s. Chad where did you get your deal? 2350 sounds like a good deal. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
10-16-2002, 11:17 AM
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Re: Rear End 101 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> Originally posted by Chad00ws6:
Buschman I am assuming that you have a car which has traction control and Anti-Loack Brakes, being that it is a 2000. If this is true and you want to be able to keep these options on your car you will need to go with the 12 bolt. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This info is incorrect. I am running a Moser 9-inch with ABS and TCS. Moser has had this option out for almost a year now.
And FWIW, with a coat of black paint on it, the 9-inch doesn't look half bad.
Also, I went with a 1350 yoke, with adapter U-bolts so I could keep my stock driveshaft.
Buschman, the issue with doing it yourself is that you either have to specify when you order that you want EVERYTHING assembled ahead of time (which means having to pay for a second set of brake backing plates & ABS/TCS rings) or you have to use a press to take your 10-bolt apart and re-use your existing brake backing plates & ABS/TCS rings, and install them on the axles that they supply you with. I did the latter, but I had a shop do it for me. I think it would cost quite a bit more to buy a rear-end (12-bolt or 9-inch) that is completely ready to bolt in... But it could be done.
Incidentally, my reason for going to a 9-inch instead of a 12-bolt was that I've been told it's stronger, AND it was a few hundred bucks cheaper. On the downside, it's also heavier.
E-mail me if you have questions about my 9-inch setup. I'm happy to help if I can.
Buschman I am assuming that you have a car which has traction control and Anti-Loack Brakes, being that it is a 2000. If this is true and you want to be able to keep these options on your car you will need to go with the 12 bolt. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This info is incorrect. I am running a Moser 9-inch with ABS and TCS. Moser has had this option out for almost a year now.
And FWIW, with a coat of black paint on it, the 9-inch doesn't look half bad.
Also, I went with a 1350 yoke, with adapter U-bolts so I could keep my stock driveshaft.
Buschman, the issue with doing it yourself is that you either have to specify when you order that you want EVERYTHING assembled ahead of time (which means having to pay for a second set of brake backing plates & ABS/TCS rings) or you have to use a press to take your 10-bolt apart and re-use your existing brake backing plates & ABS/TCS rings, and install them on the axles that they supply you with. I did the latter, but I had a shop do it for me. I think it would cost quite a bit more to buy a rear-end (12-bolt or 9-inch) that is completely ready to bolt in... But it could be done.
Incidentally, my reason for going to a 9-inch instead of a 12-bolt was that I've been told it's stronger, AND it was a few hundred bucks cheaper. On the downside, it's also heavier.
E-mail me if you have questions about my 9-inch setup. I'm happy to help if I can.
10-16-2002, 08:05 PM
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Re: Rear End 101 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Killer '01 SS:
This info is incorrect. I am running a Moser 9-inch with ABS and TCS. Moser has had this option out for almost a year now. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I am just going by what I was told from Moser that if I wanted to keep both I would have to go with the 12 bolt being that I have the four channel set up. If I am mistaken then the people I spoke with gave me the wrong information. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Mike,the backing plates are right behind your wheels it's what your brakes bolt to and such. Where your E-Brakes are hooked.
The exciter rings are pressed on the outside of the axles and in order to get new ones you have to know how many teeth are on the ones presently on your car so they can put the same one's on the new axles. This is why I used my old ones because I did not want to pull everything apart and then have to wait a week and a half to get my rear.
This is not a hard install to do at all. I did mine in the driveway in one day on jack stands by myself. Mine came completely assembled except for the axles and all I had to do there was have the exciter rings pressed off the old ones and back on the new ones, along with the press on bearings that go on the new axles. They supply great instructions. As I said before this should cost you about $35-40 versus $75 for new ones already pressed on.
The gears are already in and set up all you have to do is slide in the axles. I hope to have my pics developed soon and I will get you some.
BTW I ordered mine through LG Motorsports, but it seems after alot of research everyone has about the same price.
This info is incorrect. I am running a Moser 9-inch with ABS and TCS. Moser has had this option out for almost a year now. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I am just going by what I was told from Moser that if I wanted to keep both I would have to go with the 12 bolt being that I have the four channel set up. If I am mistaken then the people I spoke with gave me the wrong information. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Mike,the backing plates are right behind your wheels it's what your brakes bolt to and such. Where your E-Brakes are hooked.
The exciter rings are pressed on the outside of the axles and in order to get new ones you have to know how many teeth are on the ones presently on your car so they can put the same one's on the new axles. This is why I used my old ones because I did not want to pull everything apart and then have to wait a week and a half to get my rear.
This is not a hard install to do at all. I did mine in the driveway in one day on jack stands by myself. Mine came completely assembled except for the axles and all I had to do there was have the exciter rings pressed off the old ones and back on the new ones, along with the press on bearings that go on the new axles. They supply great instructions. As I said before this should cost you about $35-40 versus $75 for new ones already pressed on.
The gears are already in and set up all you have to do is slide in the axles. I hope to have my pics developed soon and I will get you some.
BTW I ordered mine through LG Motorsports, but it seems after alot of research everyone has about the same price.
10-16-2002, 08:09 PM
#14
The Bull
Re: Rear End 101 If you have 4 channel setup, meaning TCS and ABS you are limited to the 12 bolt. That part is correct. The 9" only supports a 3 channel setup.
Mine came all assembled. I too had to just take my old axles and new ones in and get everything swapped over. Took less than a day. I purchased mine from Quick Time Performance. Had it at my door one week later. Cost was roughly $2300.
No need to goto a yoke larger than a 1350 either. You are not going to be racing John Force with this setup.
Mine came all assembled. I too had to just take my old axles and new ones in and get everything swapped over. Took less than a day. I purchased mine from Quick Time Performance. Had it at my door one week later. Cost was roughly $2300.
No need to goto a yoke larger than a 1350 either. You are not going to be racing John Force with this setup.
10-16-2002, 09:51 PM
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Re: Rear End 101 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> If you have 4 channel setup, meaning TCS and ABS you are limited to the 12 bolt. That part is correct. The 9" only supports a 3 channel setup.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">WRONG!
Was my post ambiguous in some way? My car has ABS AND TCS, and I am running a Moser 9-inch, and BOTH my ABS and my TCS work just fine, thank you very much. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">WRONG!
Was my post ambiguous in some way? My car has ABS AND TCS, and I am running a Moser 9-inch, and BOTH my ABS and my TCS work just fine, thank you very much. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />
10-16-2002, 10:29 PM
#16
The Bull
Re: Rear End 101 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Killer '01 SS:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> If you have 4 channel setup, meaning TCS and ABS you are limited to the 12 bolt. That part is correct. The 9" only supports a 3 channel setup.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">WRONG!
Was my post ambiguous in some way? My car has ABS AND TCS, and I am running a Moser 9-inch, and BOTH my ABS and my TCS work just fine, thank you very much. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I stand corrected. Call DTS and tell them that a 9" supports 4 channel ABS please. Now that I think about it I guess it makes sense. They only promote the 9" up to a 3 channel setup though and will tell you that they don't support a 4 channel.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> If you have 4 channel setup, meaning TCS and ABS you are limited to the 12 bolt. That part is correct. The 9" only supports a 3 channel setup.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">WRONG!
Was my post ambiguous in some way? My car has ABS AND TCS, and I am running a Moser 9-inch, and BOTH my ABS and my TCS work just fine, thank you very much. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I stand corrected. Call DTS and tell them that a 9" supports 4 channel ABS please. Now that I think about it I guess it makes sense. They only promote the 9" up to a 3 channel setup though and will tell you that they don't support a 4 channel.
10-16-2002, 11:04 PM
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Re: Rear End 101 Here's a pic for anybody that's interested. I got the billet Daytona pinion support, that's the shiny piece at the front.
Moser pic
Incidentally, this was before I put the swaybar back on with the Spohn kit.
<small>[ October 16, 2002, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: Killer '01 SS ]</small>
Moser pic
Incidentally, this was before I put the swaybar back on with the Spohn kit.
<small>[ October 16, 2002, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: Killer '01 SS ]</small>
10-17-2002, 10:19 AM
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Re: Rear End 101 Where is the line between 9" and 12 bolt? For an M6 how fast do I have to be going to say, the 12 bolt isn't strong enough? I'm planning on building a high 10/low 11 street car with full interior and most likely FI doing the brunt of the work.
I've heard you can build a 12 bolt to be as strong as a 9". But I've also heard the a built up 9" is simply indestructable.
Is one easier to drive than the other? I want a rear that can handle whatever I can dish out at the track but also remain civil and not ruin my driving experience on the street.
So far this thread is teaching me a lot. How difficult is it to remove the drive shafts from that rear? Most likely this is the route I'll take.
You guys kick butt! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Mike
I've heard you can build a 12 bolt to be as strong as a 9". But I've also heard the a built up 9" is simply indestructable.
Is one easier to drive than the other? I want a rear that can handle whatever I can dish out at the track but also remain civil and not ruin my driving experience on the street.
So far this thread is teaching me a lot. How difficult is it to remove the drive shafts from that rear? Most likely this is the route I'll take.
You guys kick butt! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Mike
10-17-2002, 10:49 AM
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Re: Rear End 101 Mike,
Right now I dont have that hgh 10 low 11 car but I am pushing about 450rwhp. This is a guess since I have done many mods since my last dyno of 420rwhp. I have FI also and a very sticky clutch. I dump at 5 grand at the track and no problems here. I really dont think I will break it. I don't think you would have to worry about that at all. Just e-mail Moser and they will generelly reply back very fast. Let us all know when you do get it done. I am probably planning on swapping gears back to 3.73 from my current 4.10's though. It looks like I may not make it across the finish line in the 1/4 in fourth will find out this weekend. I mostly run the 1/8th since there is a track only about 5 miles from me.
Keep us posted and enjoy. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
Right now I dont have that hgh 10 low 11 car but I am pushing about 450rwhp. This is a guess since I have done many mods since my last dyno of 420rwhp. I have FI also and a very sticky clutch. I dump at 5 grand at the track and no problems here. I really dont think I will break it. I don't think you would have to worry about that at all. Just e-mail Moser and they will generelly reply back very fast. Let us all know when you do get it done. I am probably planning on swapping gears back to 3.73 from my current 4.10's though. It looks like I may not make it across the finish line in the 1/4 in fourth will find out this weekend. I mostly run the 1/8th since there is a track only about 5 miles from me.
Keep us posted and enjoy. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
