Another 8.8 thread, but wait, this ones a little different
07-02-2007, 08:38 PM
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Another 8.8 thread, but wait, this ones a little different Ive been going through the search looking at all the various threads on here about the 8.8 rear, and it seems that the problem with using them in our cars is no one seems to be able to make the torque arm mount strong enough. Well....what about this solution?
http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
Just eliminate the torque arm all together.
Any thoughts?
http://www.g-forcesuspension.com/pag...og/i.php/81/55
Just eliminate the torque arm all together.
Any thoughts?
07-02-2007, 09:30 PM
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Well, the conversions ive seen on this forum all weld the outer part of the stock 10 bolt axle housings to the 8.8 housing. that way you can still use your stock lugs, brakes, ect
07-03-2007, 04:34 AM
#4
I'd like to see what this G Force ladder bar conversion would do to 60ft times, it sounds very interesting. It looks better than some of the other conversions I have seen. If you do use a 8.8 rear, you want to replace the axles with stronger ones, as they tend to break. Bob
07-03-2007, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
I'd like to see what this G Force ladder bar conversion would do to 60ft times, it sounds very interesting. It looks better than some of the other conversions I have seen. If you do use a 8.8 rear, you want to replace the axles with stronger ones, as they tend to break. Bob
Yeah thats what im thinking. The first thing I would replace is the axles. And at my bolt on power level, I can just upgrade the rest of the rear end later as I get money... since theyre much stronger than the stock 10 bolt outta the box.
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07-03-2007, 07:28 PM
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Yeah ive seen that thread. This thread is more to use the g force setup as a solution to the problem of swapping an 8.8 into our cars. Its a cheao strong rear end that you can find every where. All the people ive seen try it in the past always had a problem with the torque arm mount breaking. Thought this would be a good solution
07-03-2007, 11:31 PM
#11
Originally Posted by LivingCanvas
Yeah ive seen that thread. This thread is more to use the g force setup as a solution to the problem of swapping an 8.8 into our cars. Its a cheao strong rear end that you can find every where. All the people ive seen try it in the past always had a problem with the torque arm mount breaking. Thought this would be a good solution
Yes there are people using the g-force bars and the pete z bars...but there just simply isnt enough feedback on the set up. I think Ive read maybe 2 testimonials to how they work. Thats either because no one is using them...not likely. Or people are buying the set ups, and not liking them, so they arent talking about them.
I for one would LOVE to hear that the g-force bars work great for a daily driver, work great in the turns, and work great at the strip. If there was more info on them, Ide be all over them. I HATE my torque arm. Its always clunking and coming loose. Not to mention the amount of exhaust room you can gain by ditching that thing. Oh well...I dont like to look for bandwagons to jump on, but this is one bandwagon that I wish would show itself. Its a major change to the set up of the car, and Ide feel a ton better if more guys were using it and posting up about it.
J.
07-04-2007, 01:36 PM
#13
My 8.8 with welded TQA is still going strong no breakage! Three seasons in a low 10 second car with 60' wheel stands and that design is TWO designs old. The current TQA version I have now cannot break. If it breaks the entire casing would literally have to tear in half. I'll take some pics of the next one but we have lots of fabbing left on this car before we get there. TT 6.0 third gen conversion.
And ya Ghetto man... get rid of that tunnel mounted torque arm thats a track only piece and do what I did. Your so close now to retro a regular torque arm with a tunnel mount relocation would be easy for you. Waaaaaay more live able. Mine hooks a ton and smooth and silent as stock. My car is soooooooo quiet when I just cruise around. hehe no one and I mean NO ONE has a clue what is under that thing until I hammer it
Of course that took two mufflers and a cat on a single exhaust to do
And ya Ghetto man... get rid of that tunnel mounted torque arm thats a track only piece and do what I did. Your so close now to retro a regular torque arm with a tunnel mount relocation would be easy for you. Waaaaaay more live able. Mine hooks a ton and smooth and silent as stock. My car is soooooooo quiet when I just cruise around. hehe no one and I mean NO ONE has a clue what is under that thing until I hammer it
Of course that took two mufflers and a cat on a single exhaust to do
07-04-2007, 02:50 PM
#15
I'm running an adjustable Spohn trans mount torque arm with a "Drews" crossmember and my own relocation bracket. I saw on TGO your c mem with the heim joints and those things are way harsh for street use. What I did works just as well but its smooth as stock. No reason at all you couldn't mod your c mem to hold the stock type urethane mount too. I have pics if need be PM me your email if you want em.
07-06-2007, 01:18 PM
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I did a little research on my own on this topic, I found some pretty good info about using ladder bars on the street. Here is just part of what I found, I'd still like to hear the opinions of someone who has personally run a ladder bar setup on a 4th gen though.
A ladder bar suspension is a fine low-cost hard-reacting suspension that is great for drag racing, but for street use it can be a high-maintenance, rough-riding, ill-handling suspension. One of the main characteristic prolems with using Competition ladder bars on the street is due to the fact that they do not allow the rear axle within to twist. This action is locked out in the design of the mechanism. A good example of this twisting action is when you pull your vehicle up into a gas station or a food mart. Your suspension has to soak up the difference between the heights of the road surfaces. In some places this offset is severe. In the design of an automobile the manufacturers go to great lengths to make a suitable suspension that soaks up all road irregularities.
However, if Competition ladder bars are installed on a vehicle, your vehicle is either going to try to lift one of the front tires of the ground or the ladder bars, brackets, or both, are going to twist and possibly bend.There is also a possibility of the bracket welds developing cracks if not properly braced, not to mention the strain put on the frame and the rest of the vehicle.The problem continues when coming into contact with a bump or pothole. Since the twisting action is locked out, the tire will make contact with a bump, and then send a jolt through the vehicle via the ladder bars.In a lightweight street rod this can result in a thrashing-like ride. Eventually something will give.
However, if Competition ladder bars are installed on a vehicle, your vehicle is either going to try to lift one of the front tires of the ground or the ladder bars, brackets, or both, are going to twist and possibly bend.There is also a possibility of the bracket welds developing cracks if not properly braced, not to mention the strain put on the frame and the rest of the vehicle.The problem continues when coming into contact with a bump or pothole. Since the twisting action is locked out, the tire will make contact with a bump, and then send a jolt through the vehicle via the ladder bars.In a lightweight street rod this can result in a thrashing-like ride. Eventually something will give.
07-07-2007, 05:46 PM
#18
Originally Posted by cam
I'm running an adjustable Spohn trans mount torque arm with a "Drews" crossmember and my own relocation bracket. I saw on TGO your c mem with the heim joints and those things are way harsh for street use. What I did works just as well but its smooth as stock. No reason at all you couldn't mod your c mem to hold the stock type urethane mount too. I have pics if need be PM me your email if you want em.
J.
07-08-2007, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by LivingCanvas
^^^ Well that settles that I guess. Good find.