I HAD to jump on this. . .was it worth it?
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From: South of West Point Iowa
I HAD to jump on this. . .was it worth it? Alright, an awful lot of us either want or think we need Ford 9" rear ends. I had the opportunity today to get one at a GREAT deal I think...just need it conformed or refuted. Heres the skinny: 58 1/2" from housing flange to housing flange. MINOR surface rust on it. All studs on the housing are straight (as tested by installing the 3rd member). Has two axles of appropriate size (1.225" diameter each w/28 splines). 3rd member has a 39/12 (ring gear/pinion) tooth set. Didn't see any chipping or obvious bad wear on them. When you grab the ring gear and check for slop, there is hardly any play (FRACTIONAL). The catches come with the axles & the housing. Axles are Ford 4 1/2" bolt pattern. I can live with that! Pleanty of drag wheels around for Fords and no one would know the difference. The bearings on the axles also have no slop in them. Smooth rolling both. I've got plans of buying a local 10-bolt (late model F-body type) and using the brackets off of it (having some semi-professionals weld them on appropriately).
How does that sound? BTW, paid $100 for it. Pictures below. Yeah, my garage is nasty.
How does that sound? BTW, paid $100 for it. Pictures below. Yeah, my garage is nasty.
Last edited by Duffster; Apr 16, 2008 at 11:36 PM.
Just think of it as you got a decient 3rd member for 100 bucks the rest of it isnt worth it...Theres no way in hell I'd put some 25 year old parts with 200,000 miles on them in my performance vehicle.If you read the faq posted at the top of the section you see that modifications to housings is a tough time comsuming ordeal requiring special tools... but
I am sure it seemed like a good deal but let us know how much money you have in it after getting it set up to work with the 4th gen mounting points.
Take it from me, I looked into every possible (cheaper) option for a stout rear end because, lets be honest, I am a cheap bastard. There really isn't a cheap option.
I have a used Strange 12 bolt in the car now and I still paid 1800 dollars for it. Some parts your just gonna have to pony up the dough, the rear end is one of these parts.
Take it from me, I looked into every possible (cheaper) option for a stout rear end because, lets be honest, I am a cheap bastard. There really isn't a cheap option.
I have a used Strange 12 bolt in the car now and I still paid 1800 dollars for it. Some parts your just gonna have to pony up the dough, the rear end is one of these parts.
You still need to attach all of the stock brackets. You can cut the spring perches and LCA brackets off a 10 bolt and make the stock rearend worthless. Then it will still require the torque arm mounts. Lastly, if the brackets aren't perfect the car could lean on one side or track improperly.
Just my $.02
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Thread Starter
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From: South of West Point Iowa
Originally Posted by chicane
...A small bearing, non-nodular third member with a 2 pinion open ??
Makes for a good garage paper weight... or a small row-boat anchor.
Makes for a good garage paper weight... or a small row-boat anchor.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Las Vegas
Sorry mate.
What I am refering to... is the material in which the "third member" (aka center section) is comprised of. Most of all OEM third members were constructed from cast iron. But, there were some that were constructed from "nodular iron" or better known as ductile cast iron. While most varieties of cast iron are brittle, ductile iron is much more ductile, as the name implies. So, since "Nodular iron" in itself is considered stronger in this application... it was looked at as the material of choice... back in the day. The cases were marked with an "N" in the center of the stiffening web on the front of the case itself. That is where it came into its own fame... and ever since, the "N" is what we look for first.
As of now, there have been huge strides in metalurgy and tons of research and developement in material use for third member construction. This would include various alloy's in forged and billet and even ventures into magnesium and titanium. While a standard cast center is still no where near the strength of the old Nodular cases... the newer stuff is even stronger. Even a 'new' production cast iron case may be stronger than that of one from 20 years ago.
What I am refering to... is the material in which the "third member" (aka center section) is comprised of. Most of all OEM third members were constructed from cast iron. But, there were some that were constructed from "nodular iron" or better known as ductile cast iron. While most varieties of cast iron are brittle, ductile iron is much more ductile, as the name implies. So, since "Nodular iron" in itself is considered stronger in this application... it was looked at as the material of choice... back in the day. The cases were marked with an "N" in the center of the stiffening web on the front of the case itself. That is where it came into its own fame... and ever since, the "N" is what we look for first.
As of now, there have been huge strides in metalurgy and tons of research and developement in material use for third member construction. This would include various alloy's in forged and billet and even ventures into magnesium and titanium. While a standard cast center is still no where near the strength of the old Nodular cases... the newer stuff is even stronger. Even a 'new' production cast iron case may be stronger than that of one from 20 years ago.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
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From: South of West Point Iowa
Any better here? ? ? One thing throwing me off is the flange bolt pattern for the axle bearings. . . . 3.500 x 2.375 (LxW) Anyone know what pattern this is? How difficult to simply have it welded in & redrilled for backing plates for the LS1 disc brakes? Thanks!
