9 inch install
I think it depends on how complete the rearend is when you get it. I took a good couple hours putting the 3rd member in, installing axle shafts, and other misc. stuff. Actually putting the rearend is pretty quick, at least with the Moser bolt-in.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Bob's the man! If I knew then what I know now I'd gladly pay him to do the work. If his guy(s) can do it in 6 hours then they're animals too. Consider you all you have to do:
1. Thouroughly wash the housing and paint it.
2. Pull the 12 center section studs in the housing (carefully) and install the center with the torque arm mount.
3. Remove the existing rear (remove rotors, calipers, backing plates, axles, reluctor rings, torque arm, and sway bar).
4. Press the reluctors, bearings, and retaining rings on the axles.
5. Install the new housing (have fun modifying the parking brake brackets and you may need a new torque arm).
6. Install axles and backing plates (again you'll enjoy getting the nuts started on the T-bolts through the 1/2" or so between the parking brakes and the axle flanges).
7. Re-attach the brake lines to the new axle (I guess zip ties would be the easiest out here, but for an OEM job you'd probably want to bend some lines and weld on some brackets).
8. Install the new conversion U-joint if you're re-using the factory driveshaft (If they're original you better bring some heat and a press or a really stout c-clamp).
9. Finally put the wheels on and the oil in (hopefully you paid the $35 for the drain plug, or else your break-in dino oil is what you get for the duration).
Really, Bob is a great guy with good advise, but after a weekend with the Moser 9", I felt like I had been in an ultimate fighting tournament!
Good luck Bro.
1. Thouroughly wash the housing and paint it.
2. Pull the 12 center section studs in the housing (carefully) and install the center with the torque arm mount.
3. Remove the existing rear (remove rotors, calipers, backing plates, axles, reluctor rings, torque arm, and sway bar).
4. Press the reluctors, bearings, and retaining rings on the axles.
5. Install the new housing (have fun modifying the parking brake brackets and you may need a new torque arm).
6. Install axles and backing plates (again you'll enjoy getting the nuts started on the T-bolts through the 1/2" or so between the parking brakes and the axle flanges).
7. Re-attach the brake lines to the new axle (I guess zip ties would be the easiest out here, but for an OEM job you'd probably want to bend some lines and weld on some brackets).
8. Install the new conversion U-joint if you're re-using the factory driveshaft (If they're original you better bring some heat and a press or a really stout c-clamp).
9. Finally put the wheels on and the oil in (hopefully you paid the $35 for the drain plug, or else your break-in dino oil is what you get for the duration).
Really, Bob is a great guy with good advise, but after a weekend with the Moser 9", I felt like I had been in an ultimate fighting tournament!
Good luck Bro.
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