wheel bearing replacement?
07-31-2007, 01:21 AM
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It's not difficult. You need to remove the axles to get to the bearings. Follow the stickied FAQ on top of this forum how to do this. After you remove the axles, you will see the seals at the end of each side axle tube. The wheel bearings are behind the seals. You can use the axles to pry off the seals but you will need a slide hammer to get the bearing off. You can rent one from Autozone or O'reilly. Once the old bearings are out, smooth the surface with an emery paper. Then use a block of wood and a hammer to tap in new bearings and seals. Put some gear oil on the seals then reinstall the axles.
07-31-2007, 03:02 AM
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Remove:
Wheels
caliper with brackets
rotors slide off
removing shocks will drop the rearend down some along with sway bar end links.
Rearend cover. (may have to remove panhard bar for easier axcess)
8 mm bolt in center pin.
center pin slides out
Then push each axle inwards to releave pressure on c clips
use magnet to pull out c clips
Axles will then slide out
use seal puller or end of axle to remove seal
then use slide hammer to remove axle bearing.
More than likely if it's bad the axle will be trashed too.
can usually use old bearing to hammer in new bearing .
use flat wood or proper tool for seal.
good luck.
..refill at end. haha
Wheels
caliper with brackets
rotors slide off
removing shocks will drop the rearend down some along with sway bar end links.
Rearend cover. (may have to remove panhard bar for easier axcess)
8 mm bolt in center pin.
center pin slides out
Then push each axle inwards to releave pressure on c clips
use magnet to pull out c clips
Axles will then slide out
use seal puller or end of axle to remove seal
then use slide hammer to remove axle bearing.
More than likely if it's bad the axle will be trashed too.
can usually use old bearing to hammer in new bearing .
use flat wood or proper tool for seal.
good luck.
..refill at end. haha
08-02-2007, 02:05 AM
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No grease needed because everything will be submerged under gear oil anyway. I have no comments on bearing brands.
For cars with TCS, the reluctor rings are pressed on the axles. Just don't drop the axles when you remove them and you should be fine. Before removing the C-clips, you need to remove the speed sensors first. Otherwise you won't be able to push in the axles far enough to remove the C-clips. You'll know what I'm talking about when you actually see them. The speed sensors are on the brake backing plates.
BTW, if you are replacing wheel bearings only, you probably won't need to remove the shocks to lower the rear end. It should drop low enough even with the shocks on anyway.
For cars with TCS, the reluctor rings are pressed on the axles. Just don't drop the axles when you remove them and you should be fine. Before removing the C-clips, you need to remove the speed sensors first. Otherwise you won't be able to push in the axles far enough to remove the C-clips. You'll know what I'm talking about when you actually see them. The speed sensors are on the brake backing plates.
BTW, if you are replacing wheel bearings only, you probably won't need to remove the shocks to lower the rear end. It should drop low enough even with the shocks on anyway.
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08-09-2007, 05:15 PM
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So I got the old bearings out, and yes, one of the axles was trashed.
But as for putting in the new bearings and seals...
I rented a tool from autozone that has an assortment of round aluminum disks. I put the tapered end up against the bearing and pounded it in until the outer rim of the aluminum disk hit up against the axle tube. Then I pounded the seal flush.
Did I do it right? Should I have put the bearing in as far as it goes?
But as for putting in the new bearings and seals...
I rented a tool from autozone that has an assortment of round aluminum disks. I put the tapered end up against the bearing and pounded it in until the outer rim of the aluminum disk hit up against the axle tube. Then I pounded the seal flush.
Did I do it right? Should I have put the bearing in as far as it goes?
08-12-2007, 04:44 AM
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The axle bearing will go in about 1/2in or so. The tool should not stop the bearing from going in!!!
You can use the old bearing and a bearing driver. You will know when the new bearing is fully in. It will be like hammering a wall that doesnt move and be very solid.
Those tapered bearing drivers arn't the best for axle bearings bc they sometimes bottom out before the bearing does. If it's not down all the way and the seal is in, you're probably not gonna have any chance of saving the seals.
Make sure you have some grease on the bearing and seal so it's not dry.
Good Luck.
You can use the old bearing and a bearing driver. You will know when the new bearing is fully in. It will be like hammering a wall that doesnt move and be very solid.
Those tapered bearing drivers arn't the best for axle bearings bc they sometimes bottom out before the bearing does. If it's not down all the way and the seal is in, you're probably not gonna have any chance of saving the seals.
Make sure you have some grease on the bearing and seal so it's not dry.
Good Luck.
