Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Here's where the leak is occuring. It's occuring b/w the ID (Inner Diameter) of the backing plate and OD of the Axle Bearing, see pic:


My question is how do I prevent this? The axle bearings are BRAND NEW. Moser said something of using either silicon or a Ford 9" axle seal, part #51098. Which is best to use? Where do I apply the RTV and or the extra Ford 9" axle seal?

Here's the pics of the axle housing, so could someone point to where I should apply either:


Thanks. I really need to stop this leaking so that I cna stop ruining my brake pads, etc.

dand35th

put a nice skim of blk. rtv around the housing lip

Spinmaster

That won't work. These bearing are **** and are not made to take this. I told you that the damm thing will leak again , I just did not think it would happen so soon. I F#@%ing hate this rearend. Make Moser give you another set of bearings. I want to go up there and throw them threw the damm window now. This Is B.S. plain and simple. Levi take the axles to a machine shop and have the axles turned down to the napa bearings like the first set you had. maybe they are made better than these Green bearings. Im lost Levi and Ill do what I can to help you. Call me Im home tonight when you get a chance.

CRASH 02

iTrader: (3)

That is the exact same problem I had with my Moser 9" I had in my 89 GTA. I ended up going with a different set of bearings. I hated that thing. It would throw axel lube everywhere. My car would reek every time it got hotter than 80 degrees out. Never again I say. I will go with a 12 bolt from Strange for my 02.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Use the ford seal in the housing, those bearings dont need lube from the rear. As long as the axle is not scored up from pressing the bearing on and off it should seal fine. Even if you slicone around the bearing where the o-ring is it will probably seep out of where the seal is on the bearing. I have 1200 highway miles on mine in one month and no leaks at all..

Another couple sugestions, did you get the vent fixed? I think you mentioned before that you didnt have one.. Also if you have the aluminum cover do not fill it up to the top hole, that will be about a quart too much and it will leak out everywhere.. The fill level is the hole on the side with the stupid 9/16 hex. I'm sure you know that but I'm just suggesting..

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I tried the Ford 9" seal and it wouldn't let me put the axle all the way in. I still had about an 1/8" left to get it flush. This is such horse-crap. These bandaid remedies by Moser are just typical now. I'm gonna get this fixed and sell the Moser and get a Strange or friggin' 10 bolt since I don't drag race.

xaon

iTrader: (12)

When I assembled my moser 9", neither of the axles would go in all the way with the seal in there. I had to suck the backing plate up to the housing end with the T-bolts/nuts in order to get it flush.

It's been in for over 2,000 miles and 15 or so 6000rpm launches on the spray at the track. I've had no leaking issues at all.

kp

iTrader: (34)

The 9" ford seals are in mine and the axles went in fine. If the seals were stopping the axles from going in and you tightened the bolts to draw the axles in they probably didnt turn very easy for a while. Its possible they may have changed the housing ends to make them a little deeper, that pick you have looks a little different then the ends that were on mine.

Strange uses the same type of bearing, the brand may be different but all c-clip eliminator/pressed on bearings are basically the same thing.. Been that way for the last 20 or so years that I remember, and I also remember every pressed on aftermarket axle bearing I ever had leaking to some extent..

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I don't know why they use this retarded sealed bearing setup. The diesel truck shop, Republic Diesel, said these bearings SHOULD NOT be utilized for automotive use.

What would be so hard about utilizing a standard set 20 Timkken bearing with a seal groove machined into the backing plate to mate against the housing? That would elminate all this crap. The bearing would be lubed up by the fluid in the axle tubes and there would be no friggin' leaks. It's so ignorant.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Any 12 bolt c-clip eliminator clip setup is the same, so is any dana, 9" or whatever. Factory pressed on bearing axles like a 9" ford have the seals on the outside. I have very seldom seen these bearings go bad, they look plenty large for what they need to do and they really arent designed to be lubed with the rear axle fluid As far as sealing well thats a different story, you have to remember that these setups have been used for many years and mostly on drag race cars that see little street use.

I have never had a strange f-body 12 bolt but I have used/installed dozens of their 12 bolt c-clip eliminator kits and its the same basic setup as the moser - and yes they leak..

kp

iTrader: (34)

BTW, moser does sell these rears without the c-clip eliminators, I'm not sure what size bearing they use but naturally the axles are different. May want to switch to that setup (axles are cheap) if they use the same housing ends if you wand an OE leak free seal.. The side gears in the posi may be different also, never seen one so I cant say

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

So, let me get this straight, c-clip elimantor equipped rears are prone to leaks. What's a sturdy rear for the street that doesn't leak? I don't drag, but like road course action. So, a 9" would be out of the question. What about an 8.8"?

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Just get the rear of choice with the strongest c-clip axles, no leaks.

DERTY

I have the Timken seals in my tubes in they don't leak at all. It's just a glorified timing cover/crank seal. I actually was able to match them up at Autozone. I have the Timken part number at home. I'll look it up if that helps.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Derty, please do look it up for me