2-series vs 3-series rear end noise
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2-series vs 3-series rear end noise
Does anybody know the exact differences in a 2-series rear end and a 3-series. I know that obviously the 2-series is for 3.08 and numerically lower and 3-series for 3.23 and numerically higher but what i wanna know is there any other differences in the entire rear end. I mean like axles or retaining block or anything.
The reason im askin is because my stock 3-series carrier took a crap so i bought a 2-series locally and used the carrier out of it, bought 4.10's, and installed it into my 3-series rear end. now that is all back together, its great except for one thing. it makes sounds like something is loose almost as if the axles are loose or somethin. when you shake the wheel it sounds like the wheel is loose even though it isnt. or if you just shake the entire rear of the car its really bad. could the c-clip retaining block (or paddle) be different for a 2 or 3 series therefor allowing too much play in the axles? or could the axles be different lenghts (if that even matters)?
as far as driving it it's real quiet. virtually no whine at all but when i hit bumps i can hear a clunk coming from the back end.
The reason im askin is because my stock 3-series carrier took a crap so i bought a 2-series locally and used the carrier out of it, bought 4.10's, and installed it into my 3-series rear end. now that is all back together, its great except for one thing. it makes sounds like something is loose almost as if the axles are loose or somethin. when you shake the wheel it sounds like the wheel is loose even though it isnt. or if you just shake the entire rear of the car its really bad. could the c-clip retaining block (or paddle) be different for a 2 or 3 series therefor allowing too much play in the axles? or could the axles be different lenghts (if that even matters)?
as far as driving it it's real quiet. virtually no whine at all but when i hit bumps i can hear a clunk coming from the back end.
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I read somewere that the torson posi (with a paddel not a pin between axles)
you need a thicker one using lower gears?????slp makes it.
didnt make sense to me how that would change axle gap though.
if you can pull the wheel in and out thats prob. it
you need a thicker one using lower gears?????slp makes it.
didnt make sense to me how that would change axle gap though.
if you can pull the wheel in and out thats prob. it
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Did you put your c-clips back in? They are the pieces that go on the end of the axle to hold them in. If you didnt all that is holding them in now is your brakes.
The paddle kit is clearanced to make it past the higher numeric gears, but if you can get it in or out that is not the problem.
The paddle kit is clearanced to make it past the higher numeric gears, but if you can get it in or out that is not the problem.
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well i had a local rear end/trans guy set it up so i assumed he wouldnt leave somethin like that out. ill check for the c-clips once i can get it back in my shop. is there any other possibilities? also, how well would it ride if they were indeed left out?
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im wondering if maybe the axles or that retaining block are just worn out. i need some opinions before replacing anything. the missing c-clip theory is ruled out.
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If the axles have play going in and out then it would have to be the c-clips or the paddle. If the c-clips are in, then the next thing would be the paddle itself. They shouldnt wear at all. You could try your paddle from your old diff in there, it should work fine. If the axle were worn they would have made noise before. You could also have a diff case that isnt shimmed properly, but it would have to be waayy off. I would try taking your wheel and brakes off and then see what the axles do- how much movement, etc.