Rear End Fluids

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Oct 14, 2007 | 06:21 PM

Tram

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From: Florence, Al

Rear End Fluids

Hey guys..

I'm about to swap a stock 2.73 rear for a 3.42 rear, and I'm wondering what kind of rear end gear oil to use, and how much of it I'm gonna need?

Thanks,
Jeff

Oct 14, 2007 | 07:18 PM

chicane

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From: Las Vegas

Oct 15, 2007 | 04:26 AM

Tram

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From: Florence, Al

Quote:

Originally Posted by chicane

The search sucks..

Thanks though..

Oct 15, 2007 | 11:02 AM

Tram

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From: Florence, Al

For the next guy who may come along and need this info..

Roughly 2.5 qts of 75w90.. Fill from the axle hole on the passenger side.. Seems like most guys liek Royal Purple or Mobil 1.. No additive needed for these.. Get the additive if you go with dino oils..

Oct 15, 2007 | 01:11 PM

Greggy

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From: Boston, MA

I have done this like 7 times and it only takes 1.75 qts and use M1 75w-90.
No additive is needed for the stock torsen LSD no matter what fluid you use.

Oct 15, 2007 | 01:23 PM

cookba

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From: Tampa

did mine and used the M1 75w90. just for piece of mind i used the additive. but ya, it isnt required

Oct 15, 2007 | 02:15 PM

ultraz

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anyone use redline fluids?

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Oct 15, 2007 | 09:27 PM

chicane

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From: Las Vegas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tram

The search sucks..

Thanks though..

12 pages of nothing I guess... https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.php?do=process

But, to add to the meele'... the use of a straight weight 140 (or even a multi vis 85-140) is prefered for performance use. The better lubericants are from Schaffers, TORCO and Lucas. Royal Purple doesnt seem worth a **** outside of engine use and Mobile1 doesnt have the shock loading properties needed unless your getting groceries or change you differential lube every six months... just like the RedLine products.

As for the friction modifier... it is required for use in lubericants that dont have it added into the base material. Dyno, synthetic... or not... its not just for dino. It is necessary for use in limited slip differentials like that of a platen type clutch (Eaton) or forcing cone (Auburn).

Also... you dont need to reprogram it immediately. But it is in your best interest to do it as soon as possible, as it has to do with the fuel enrichment programming at cruise. If you run it too long without programming it... it can lead to a lean condition and trigger other issues.

I am guessing that none of this could be found in the 12 pages of suckiness. I know I myself, along with multiple others have answered this atleast 25 times each...

Last edited by chicane; Oct 15, 2007 at 09:42 PM.

Oct 16, 2007 | 10:40 AM

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Tram

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From: Florence, Al

Quote:

Originally Posted by chicane

12 pages of nothing I guess... https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.php?do=process

I am guessing that none of this could be found in the 12 pages of suckiness. I know I myself, along with multiple others have answered this atleast 25 times each...

First, I appreciate the answers..

Secondly, It appears they have been working on the search's ability to do a search, as I know this is a new beta search engine.. At the time of posting this thread, it provided zero decent results.. It is now providing much more accurate results..

Thanks for your time though!

Oct 16, 2007 | 11:20 AM

#11

BlackScreaminMachine

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From: Wallingford CT

I run stock grade dino oil with GM additive, never an issue

Oct 16, 2007 | 02:06 PM

#12

alamantia

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From: NJ

Auburn gets mineral oil with additive

Torsen gets either mineral or synthetic with no additive unless its squeekin

Oct 16, 2007 | 09:57 PM

#13

chicane

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From: Las Vegas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tram

Secondly, It appears they have been working on the search's ability to do a search, as I know this is a new beta search engine.. At the time of posting this thread, it provided zero decent results.. It is now providing much more accurate results..

My apologizes Tram.

I totally forgot that some am/will/are having problems with the search function. I recant the sarcasm, if you will allow it.