Holy crap! Strange 12-bolt is basically a direct bolt-in.
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After researching for some time I finally settled on the Strange 12-bolt and just finished installing it this weekend. Just waiting on a Denny's driveshaft now (4-week backorder
). Needless to say I am impressed as hell at this point. Now, to be fair I haven't even lowered the car off the jackstands yet, but this thing went in without a hitch. Everything lined up and bolted in perfectly, the BMR bolt-in relocation brackets fit up easily, the stock swaybar mounts and 21mm rear bar fit up nicely, no clearance issues with the LWP cover (I'm running Eibach ProKit springs) even with the weight of the car in the axle, all the little tabs for the brake lines are there... This thing has been a pleasure to install (well, maybe not a pleasure, but pretty close
). I did have to grind some on the G2 TA to get it in, but that was expected. Also, a spacer was needed for the brake line T-fitting, but that's about it. Very, very nice so far. I'm going to run one final clearance check by removing the coil springs and jacking the axle up until it bottoms out just to be certain there is nothing that needs to be "massaged", but everything looks good so far. Just wanted to relay my satisfaction with the fit and finish of the Strange after hearing so many horror stories about the Moser. I'll update again once I get it on the road if anyone's interested.
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im installing a strange 12 bolt now, mine doesnt have the abs connection, it has spliced wires??? what did yours have???
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will do, onfire. I actually live within about 10 miles of Randy's Ring & Pinion so if the noise is excessive, I'll have them take a look. FWIW, backlash came from Strange set at .009" - not sure about any of the other specs.
SSHOTROD, yes my ABS connection was the same way. The stock sensor has a connector incorporated, so you can't reuse that. I just went down to my local Napa and bought a mating pair of GM weatherpack connectors and pins. I cut the connector off the stock harness and replaced it. Then I spliced the mating connector onto the wires on the new rear. I wish they would have used slightly larger gauge of wire on the new sensor, but it worked okay.
SSHOTROD, yes my ABS connection was the same way. The stock sensor has a connector incorporated, so you can't reuse that. I just went down to my local Napa and bought a mating pair of GM weatherpack connectors and pins. I cut the connector off the stock harness and replaced it. Then I spliced the mating connector onto the wires on the new rear. I wish they would have used slightly larger gauge of wire on the new sensor, but it worked okay.
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i hope my moser is as easy to install as your seems to be
i hear ya on the dennys driveshaft! still waiting on mine
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Levi,
The Strange rears are shipped sealed and full of fluid for breakin, so I wasn't planning on opening it up. They also come with a tag noting the actual backlash measurement and the mechanic's name and work order #. Its probably smart to have it confirmed as you say, but I felt comfortable with it and there is a noise warranty (except with the Richmond gears of course
).
The Strange rears are shipped sealed and full of fluid for breakin, so I wasn't planning on opening it up. They also come with a tag noting the actual backlash measurement and the mechanic's name and work order #. Its probably smart to have it confirmed as you say, but I felt comfortable with it and there is a noise warranty (except with the Richmond gears of course
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Thanks, Slowhawk. That passenger side stud and rotation of the swaybar were two of the main things I wanted to go back and check with the coils out.
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How much is a strange 12 bolt for our cars? Where did you get it? Is it better than a moser/9 inch?
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Okay, just to follow up on this thread:
Now that the LCA's, PHR, new TA, and everything were installed, I went back and removed the coil springs. Then I jacked up the rear until it bottomed out to ensure that there was clearance for everything (with the car on jackstands of course
). The stud on the passenger side hit the PHR support just as Slowhawk said it would, so the fix is to notch the bracket and repaint. Not super happy about affecting the structural integrity of this support with a notch right in the highest bending moment area, but we'll see how it goes. I really don't know how much load this thing takes anyway.
Everything else clears fine. As the swaybar rotates it comes to within about 1/4" of the cover, but it works fine with the stock clamps. I now have a set of Spohn clamps and endlinks for sale
So, moral of the story is that with the Strange 12-bolt and the aluminum cover the only modifications required will be to notch the PHR support bracket and possibly some splicing of the ABS wires. If you have an aftermarket torque arm that may need some grinding as well. The 21mm rear swaybar clears fine, the BMR bolt-in relocation brackets fit fine, and no clearance problems with the gas tank, PHR, etc.
Now that the LCA's, PHR, new TA, and everything were installed, I went back and removed the coil springs. Then I jacked up the rear until it bottomed out to ensure that there was clearance for everything (with the car on jackstands of course
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Everything else clears fine. As the swaybar rotates it comes to within about 1/4" of the cover, but it works fine with the stock clamps. I now have a set of Spohn clamps and endlinks for sale
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So, moral of the story is that with the Strange 12-bolt and the aluminum cover the only modifications required will be to notch the PHR support bracket and possibly some splicing of the ABS wires. If you have an aftermarket torque arm that may need some grinding as well. The 21mm rear swaybar clears fine, the BMR bolt-in relocation brackets fit fine, and no clearance problems with the gas tank, PHR, etc.
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I hope my install goes as good as yours... I'll be using this thread as an install guide. I ordered mine from Tbyrne also, and Im still waiting for them to call me with an RA for my ABS parts.
Fulton, are the BMR relocation brackets required for the install? Or was this just another mod you did while you were under the car?
Fulton, are the BMR relocation brackets required for the install? Or was this just another mod you did while you were under the car?
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DarkLord,
The bolt-in relocation brackets are not required for the installation. I just happened to have had them on my car before since its lowered. I was always curious whether they would work since apparently they won't work on the Moser. I never did get a conclusive answer from anyone with a Strange whether they would fit up or not. Same with the stock rear swaybar attachments. So, I thought it would be worthwhile to put some concrete info out there.
If you should have any questions regarding the installation feel free to shoot me a PM or an email and I'll try and help. I also have some pics I can email if anyone is interested.
The bolt-in relocation brackets are not required for the installation. I just happened to have had them on my car before since its lowered. I was always curious whether they would work since apparently they won't work on the Moser. I never did get a conclusive answer from anyone with a Strange whether they would fit up or not. Same with the stock rear swaybar attachments. So, I thought it would be worthwhile to put some concrete info out there.
If you should have any questions regarding the installation feel free to shoot me a PM or an email and I'll try and help. I also have some pics I can email if anyone is interested.
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Well, I put about 50 miles on the new rear today for the first heat cycle. Again, I'm very impressed. I could hardly tell that it was in there except for the fact that it was much tighter than the sloppy OEM rear (which would clunk on almost every 1-2 and 2-3 shift). There is a tiny bit of additional gear noise - mainly on decel, but its so slight that I hardly notice it even with the windows up and the radio off. Note that this is with poly engine mounts, poly trans mount, and G2 TA - so there isn't much in the way of noise isolation
The 4.10's in my C4 were much louder than this and they were well setup Viper gears.
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The 4.10's in my C4 were much louder than this and they were well setup Viper gears.
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Man, I am glad to hear so much good news about the Strange. One question I have asked many times on different forums and not got a response, was about using the BMR relocation brackets. Since I already have them. I was worried I would have to buy some weld-in ones and just trash the BMR's. Good info about the notching that brace as well. I emailed Tom Byrne, and my Strange is supposed to ship tomorrow !!! ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I'll be so glad to get rid of that 10-bolt, I'm on my third set of gears in it and it's sounding like an old washing machine right now (I suspect pinion bearings) but who cares, I'm junking that POS for good !!!
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I'll be so glad to get rid of that 10-bolt, I'm on my third set of gears in it and it's sounding like an old washing machine right now (I suspect pinion bearings) but who cares, I'm junking that POS for good !!!
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Oh, I forgot. One question ! How long did it take you to install your Strange ?(not including waiting on that driveshaft, of course)
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T/A, from the time I jacked the car up to the first drive was about three weekends. This was with only me doing the work, limited time intervals to work on it (basically ~ 8 hrs or so per weekend at best), and not rushing. If you have all the parts and tools available to you at one place, I imagine it could be done in a weekend without any problem. Just remember to factor in some time for painting, etc. IMO, its a decent sized project, but very straightforward.
I found that there was an order in which it went back together the easiest (otherwise the rear will move around or the jack would be in the way, etc). This is the reassembly order that worked well for me: (1) TA bracket to trans, (2) TA, (3) LCA's, (4) springs (5) PHR, and (6) shocks. Also, you might take some notes or pics beforehand so you remember where all the clips, brake lines, and parking brake cables route. Finally, it helps to have a manual with torque specs, but if you don't, let me know and I can post them.
I found that there was an order in which it went back together the easiest (otherwise the rear will move around or the jack would be in the way, etc). This is the reassembly order that worked well for me: (1) TA bracket to trans, (2) TA, (3) LCA's, (4) springs (5) PHR, and (6) shocks. Also, you might take some notes or pics beforehand so you remember where all the clips, brake lines, and parking brake cables route. Finally, it helps to have a manual with torque specs, but if you don't, let me know and I can post them.