I am running DRAG RADIALS ONLY. NO SLICKS.

I blew my rear end up at the track so I deceided to rebuild it instead of buying a 12 Bolt. I could not and still can not afford a 12 bolt. I am a daily driver so I needed the car back on the road ASAP.

I had a well known shop do the work. A sponsor in the the Texas section on LS1.com. I had a Auburn Pro differential (The best for Drag racing in a 10 bolt), Motive 4.10's, TA cover (with locking bolts) and a Ratech deluxe install kit. I also had both axles replaced with brand new ones. Everything was new bearings and all except for the housing. It cost me $1538 including labor to do this.

I give the rebuilt rear 1000 miles before I took it to the track. After my 4th or 5th pull the gears start whining. So I quit and take it back to the shop the next day. The pinion nut came loose. So they put lock tite on it. After I pick it up I notice a slight machining/winning noise. Kinda sounds like a metal grind but very very low noise. They said that it was nothing. I asked if they torqued it and they said yes. My thought was that it was too tight. Anyway I give it another 1000 miles take it back to the track and after the 4 or 5th run the rear end is whinning again. This time it is only when I let off the gas. I take it back to the shop and it is not the pinion nut. It is tight. They are telling me since I raced it they are not sure if they can do anything for me.

I took it to them becasue they are a race shop. I could have taken it somewhere else like a dealer or something, but since I was going to race it I took it there.

I have a M6 and I am only putting down 380 rwhp/380rwtq. I have been launching at 2 to 3k RPMs. I took it to the denton dragway 8th mile in Denton Tx. They are now telling me that my rear end can't handle that much power. They told me that I would have no problems running drag radials when I originally had the work done. They even told me I should be able to run slicks. I knew that was wrong. They are telling me that I need a new housing now.

Should I expect them to fix this? Why did they not tell me I needed a new housing the first time? It sounds to me that they are trying to get out of this. I have had the rebuilt rear for 2 months now and been to the track 2 times. Does this seem odd to anyone? Shouldn't my rebuilt rear hold up better than this?

Sorry for the long post.

 

You spent $1500 to rebuild a 10 bolt? How? Why?

<img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

 

Hahaha! I hope everyone learns from your lost money. Don't rebuild 10 bolts! You should have found a used stock rear end for $250 and thrown that in until you could afford something stronger.

 

I blew up my first so I replaced everything with stronger parts. Labor was $600 of that price. They removed the rear end completely out of the car. What else was I going to do? I needed it back on the the road ASAP.

 

Thanks Terry, Like I said I asked that very question will I have this problem again. The shop replied no. They said I would have no problems at all with drag radials and they said I could probably get away with slicks. This was from the head guy and the tech that did the rebuild. I did not want some piece of **** in my car for $250. I did not have time to wait on a 8.8 rebuild either DAILY DRIVER.

 

Man post up ! Im in lewisville and have a friend with an extra 10 bolt he could have sold and installed for under $500. Its not hard nor time consuming to swap stock 10 bolts.

 

gears $200
auburn $400
TA cover $200
labor $500 or $600
rest is tax and redline fliud.

 

O2NBMZ if the shop is not going to do anything for me I will pm you. Thanks

 

I would call the BBB or AG's office in your area and inquire if the state of Texas has an implied warranty law. In it's simplest from an implied warranty states that a good should last as long as the average life expectancy of that product. If it fails prior to that the item is fixed at a pro-rated rate. If the sales person (acting as an agent for that company) specifically told you that he gauranted the rear would not blow up and it did, then he is in breach of his contract that he made with you when he took your money to fix the rear. Turn to the courts and they will give you a remedy for this breach of contract. Also look at all the fine print on your work order to see what kind of legal disclaimers are listed. If they throw that in your face as a way out of fixing it for you fear not. You can usually get those disclaimers thrown out in court. When this happens the contract is deemed to a contract of adhesion and usually the court sides with the little guy. Good luck.

 

most likely your screwed, rear ends and racing, and warrantys dont seem to go together too well.

If the shop wants to keep your business, they should at least rebuild it at "their" cost, and only bill you for parts (at their cost)

But if your just an average joe, who has only spend $$ there once or twice... most likely your screwed <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Sorry..

Have many friends been there.... done that.... same problem.

Ryan.

 

Man I am really sorry this happend to you...But I gotta be honest. No good mechanic would build a 10bolt rear for a 380 RWHP car and warrenty it with track use, those things are like ticking timebombs on anything other than a street tire. Even on street tires they have been known to break