javier1730

iTrader: (16)

Like you i was undecided whether to go stock width or narrowed.. i ended up getting it narrowed 3" per side, and im happy i did, it does look really good with the big lip, as for rims back spacing its really simple if you go with a 3" per side, on a 15x10 rim you'll need a 4.5 backspacing, which is what im running right now. Stock backspacing is 7.5 so if you take 3" of each side that leaves you with 7.5 - 3= 4.5, its pretty simple. hope that help and congrats on the new rearend, its a really nice piece.

glhs422

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for your input! Does anyone have any input on cars that will be road racing as well as drag racing?

Would it be better to keep the stock width for road racing? (I realize that the wheel would still be in the same position either way, but I'm wondering if it would be stiffer with the full width rear end vs narrowed...)

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

I got my MWC 9" on the weekend and thought I'd share a few things.

First off, the workmanship looks great. I used to be a welding inspector and can be pretty critical of welds. They looks great on this.

Above was asked about a road racing/drag racing car. I currently use mine for both. There are comprimises to be made. The Watts link is a really nice enhancement to the rear suspension. Also go for the long TA, the short one can unsettle the car into corners. I had the Fayes2 on my 12 bolt as well as a CrMo long TA and loved it. If you are buying the MWC Watts set up I suggest asking for an rodend upgrade. I have ordered new ones to replace the standard ones they come with.

New diff and the old 12 bolt.





Old Watts vs the New one.



Old torque arm vs the new one.



Did some weighing to see if I saved some weight, I was happy that it will knock 47.5 lbs out of the weight of the car. Not as much off the diff as I would have thought, but I had heard the Wave Trac was heavy.

BTW my set up is:

Alum Center
Wavetrac
35 spline
reinforced back brace
tow loops
Watts
4 ch. ABS rings
powder coat

I am sure a spool, 31 spline alxes and no back brace would be much lighter, not sure what the 10 bolt weighs, or a old style Moser 9".

Moser 12 bolt, 212lbs + Fayes Watts, 26.5lbs + Torque arm, 30.5lbs for a total of 269lbs.

MWC Fabbed 9", 192.5lbs + Watts, 11.5lbs + Torque arm, 17.5lbs for a total of 221.5lbs.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Depending on how indepth you get between the two different styles of racing you should not see an issue with a narrowed rear end. If you are looking to narrow your housing I do have a set of 17" Billet Specialties Street lites that I can make you a package deal that has the correct BS for -2.25 per side.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

RAMPANT everything looks great, if you have any questions please let us know.

Talk about great weight savings.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

I will probably be ordering my rear in in about a week or so. cant wait to get this thing bolted in

I will also be getting the watts link and will have to ask about the rod end upgrade

MWC can you guys send me a PM on a price quote for the EXACT same setup RAMPENT ordered minus the tow loops? I of coarse will be calling to order and will figure out the minor details then but just looking for a round about price on that exact setup

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

PM has been sent.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

The tow loops are only $40 and a good convenience, why not just get em?

glhs422

iTrader: (4)

GREAT info in this thread, thanks guys!

What are the pros/cons of 31 spline vs 35 spline axles? I was thinking 31 splines were good enough for my M6 street car that *might* eventually go 10's, but I only want to build this rear end once!

Can you use 35 splines with an aluminum center section, retain 3 ch ABS, etc?

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Your differential unit is going to dictate what spline axles you chose for the most part. Some differentials come in different spline counts and some do not.

Now with that being said many cars can get away with 31SPL axles for a very long time, as long as they are using a quality axle that is. We have had very good luck with Strange axles and as you can assume we have a ton of customers out there using them.

Now on the other hand if you can get 35SPL axles there is no need not to, as they will most likely be the last set of axles you will ever need to purchase for your after market rear end.

Now onto the center section, a light weight aluminum center section is not recommended for heavy vehicles and continues driving. It is designed for light weight drag racing applications. How ever we do have many customers using them on their street vehicles. Normally the biggest issue with an aluminum center is premature gear wear do to case flex and they do tend to let out more gear noise. We have had really good luck with the Yukon Thru-Bolt aluminum center section case for these cars and that has been the popular chose for all around vehicles.

Like i tell many customers though, buying the lightest case such as a Strange aluminum and then adding the heaviest differentials on the market are kind of a wash. It does make a huge difference depending on what you are doing though and your goals for the vehicle could dictate other wise depending if you are building just a driver, drag race, or road racing type vehicle. With these vehicles they are normally a combination of all three. I think the fact that we can build a rear end and cover anything that anyone needs makes us so popular.

That is kind of why we rarely have identical builds on order. We can put so many different combinations together with just the center section it is crazy. Now add what we can do for rear end options and the different things people are doing with these vehicles and you will go insane trying to keep up.

We can also make 3Ch and 4Ch work with any differential unit. A spool and a Detroit locker will play Havoc with them so keep that in mind.

I hope this helps some and if anyone has any more questions please let us know.

TransWS6Am

iTrader: (41)

what rod end upgrade? curious about this......

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

We do not actually have any rod end upgrades but if a customer feels they want something more than what comes with the package we can get what ever you feel you may need at the cost difference.

For the most part everyone has been very happy with the FK rod ends we use. We have used all the major manufactures out there and have had best results with FK over all others and we chose which static load rate to use based off it's function.

Eric would explain this better over myself and need be I'm sure he will if there is some confusion.

glhs422

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the great info!

So...

Stock width... 7.5" BS rims
Narrowed 2" per side... 5.5" BS rims
Narrowed 3" per side... 4.5" BS rims

Got it!

I have 17x11 ZR1 replicas on the back right now, with 50mm offset (which works out to roughly 7.97" BS?). If I go with a narrowed rim of 2" per side, would I be able to run these rims with a 2" spacer? Or will I have to buy new rims right off the bat?

Thanks!

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

MWC never recommends the use of any wheel spacers. We always suggest that a customer makes sure that they are prepared to purchase new wheels when they narrow a housing as they will no longer be able to run a stock width wheel.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Jason order that k memeber today is there Tow loops on it to help strap the car down in the trailer? Otherwise I just strap it like I always do.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Not with our stock rack version but we can incorporate one for $40.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

I will pass I just strap it down like I always do.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

good info
Thats what I need, I know I can get a 50# lighter setup.

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

Curious, as I had my diff shipped assembled.

Is there a magnet in the housing anywhere similar to stock?

I am looking to buy a magnetic drain plug as the one shipped is a standard plug without.

I figure the magnet is good insurance for an expensive investment.

Thanks!

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

There is no magnet in the housing.