ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

I can do BBC mounts no problem, but I would suggest the motorplate route for sure. Motor plates are real easy to setup in the car and if you do want to go that route I can even set you up with the swap plate and mounting brackets/hardware. I will need to know what oil pan you are planning on running also.

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

Sounds good. It'll still be a while before I get to that point, right now I still have the big 10qt pan on the motor as it's still in my boat. I'll be in touch though once I get the ball rolling.
Cory

Bbcpoweredz28

iTrader: (1)

I am so close to ordering after spending four days reading this thread from the beginning. All 137 pages lol.

I just need a pm for how much a direct fit crossmember and long arm for a third gen with turbo 400 would be. I'd rather have a bolt in trans crossmember.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

We do not offer a long arm direct fit cross member for third gens, at this point in time the only thing we offer for third gens is a short arm cross member kit that has to be welded into SFC.

Bbcpoweredz28

iTrader: (1)

What if I shipped you my current crossmember? Would you be able to use that design to make a custom crossmember and long torque arm?

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

There is more to it than having a cross member when torque arm attachment comes into play. The demand for a long arm 3rd gen just has not been there for us to get to involved with making one.

LS69TA

iTrader: (30)

I'm going with a 4l80 with a brake, and gonna need some offset LCA's. Probably behind a 408, and I want the rear narrowed 3-3.5 a side so I can run some 28x12.50s with roughly a 4.5" BS in preferrably a red/black setup for a white Camaro. ARB locker and I think a 3:23 gear woudl work better in a stripper than a 3:73? Any suggestions..good or bad, I'm all ears.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

You're thinking of using an ARB Air Locker diff unit correct? I have installed and used those in 4WD axles, but never in all my years done it to a street/strip car. I understand the theory no doubt, but I won't guarantee it will live in this application.

I will sure install one if that what you have to have, but if I were you I would call the manufacturer and tell them exactly what you are planning on doing and see what they have to say.

CaMaRo67RS355

iTrader: (75)

Inlcuding mine hope it gets here soon

ErikElvis

iTrader: (1)

SSVERT I think ill be calling you in a few months for some help. Bought a rear end off of you a few years ago and never got the car back together. The adj arm that centers the rear end doesn't give me enough play and may need to order from you. And I had trouble having the SLP SFC's work with the torque arm brace. wondering about other options for SFC's that aren't welded in. ALso any recommendations on replacement brake lines for the rear. the re bent stocks look like *****. This ar needs to get back together. It looks to good to just be sitting here in the garage for 2+ years.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

We can get you into a PHB. The three point bolt on SFC are interfering with a tunnel mount torque arm cross member? My suggestion would be to ditch those as they are not doing you any good to begin with and purchase a set of our weld on SFC. Any SFC that bolts to the LCA bracket is useless and not doing much good for you. You need a set that tie the frame together.

For brake lines you can always purchase new prebent lines or get new line and try to bend it to shape yourself.

Now go out and get that rear end in the car already.

Cool28

iTrader: (2)

I bought stainless line from a Place in ny. Pretty sure if u give them spec there make some for ya. Don't know if I can say the name so Pm me

Cool28

iTrader: (2)

Any ideas on what paint I can use to touch up the powdercoat? It fell off the jack and chipped it when I was first installing it

RAMPANT

iTrader: (17)

For brake lines.

If you look at the posts linked below I showed pictures of the ones I made and the part numbers and materials I used.

Cost me $55 and I had enough to do it twice with a couple spare fittings. The stuff I used bends easy. Then I took the factory spiral spring fron the stock lines and installed it over my new ones. All I did was go to a shop that did the flares for me. The posts were on pages 129-131 if you want to read it all. Hope that helps. All the Midwest installed clips sure do make it look proffessional with the custom made lines.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/15589101-post2576.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/15600960-post2601.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/15609132-post2620.html

I also have made a couple tweaks to the breather in the axle tube. I will get some pics of that in a few days. My car pulls pretty Gs and used to puke oil out my breather in the 12 bolt, so I did a similar mod to the MWC 9 but made it look even cleaner. At least I think so.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Just a nice quality paint in semi-gloss black.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

List of other items we manufacture in house and offer a huge discount on when purchasing a MWC rear end.

Lower Control arms

MWC lower control arms can be purchased in chromemoly or aluminum and available in various colors. Lower control arms can be built with poly-poly on car adjustable or poly-heim joint on car adjustable. We also offer standard or offset LCA bushings.

Anti roll bar/Drag bar

We build different versions for any rear end on the market that uses stock style sway bar mounting brackets. If your rear end does not have stock style mounting brackets we have those available as well. Some welding required. We offer both weld in and a full bolt on version.

Panhard Bar

MWC panhard bar is offered in chrome-moly or aluminum and is available in various colors. Choices of poly-poly on-car adjustable, combination of poly-heim joint on-car adjustable, or double heim joint versions.

Driveshaft safety loop

Picture
Tunnel form-fitting, bolt-in driveshaft loop. Made to NHRA legal specs. Best ground and exhaust clearances of any loop on the market.

Watts link

Our Watts link kit features the greatest amount of exhaust clearance and lightest weight design of any F-body Watts link on the market. Manufactured from aircraft grade chromemoly tubing and is adjustable for ride height and track location(housing centering).

Feel free to check out www.midwestchassis.com for instal pictures and other information on product we manufacture in house. We also have the lowest prices available in Strange, Moser, Afco, Billet Specialties, Procharger, and other top name manufactures that we deal direct with.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

what does a watts link do?

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

It's been covered extensively in the suspension section. It locates a solid axle more precisely than a panhard bar. If provided with this adjustment, Fays2 and the MWC are, you can also adjust the roll center.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ts-link-3.html

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

^^^ Thanks...

A Watts link is a rearend track locator that direct replaces the panhard bar on the 82-02 f-body cars.

We manufacture a very high quality setup that features lightweight chromemoly construction, a lot of added exhaust clearance at the rearend area, fully adjustable track location and ride height centering, aircraft quality double-row propeller bearing, and is a full bolt-in application with our rearends, even with a backbrace.

http://www.midwestchassis.com/watts-link.html

Brian2001SS

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, can you still use a jack under the housing/center section to jack the rear up with out damaging the housing? Last thing I want to do is mess up my red powder coating. I've always use buffer pads on the jack with 10 bolt, but this is much different to say the least.