Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics
#2521
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the advice!
I have sent MWC a message to get my order going for a Fab 9"... I'm super excited!
One more question for all you guys! I have been going back and forth between a stock width rearend or a narrowed rear.
Just like everyone else, I have been through my share of hassles with cars, and a part of me just wants to go with the stock width, so I don't have to worry about custom backspacing, etc...
For those of you with narrowed 9" rear ends, is it pretty standard for the backspacing?
In otherwords, if I told you I have a rear that's narrowed 3", and I want to run 15 x 10 rims, could you tell me what backspacing I'd need right off the bat, or is there a lot of 'trial and error' to get a rim that fits right?
I don't want to have to shell out extra $$ for custom rims after this is all said and done!
What do you guys think? Thanks in advance!
I have sent MWC a message to get my order going for a Fab 9"... I'm super excited!
One more question for all you guys! I have been going back and forth between a stock width rearend or a narrowed rear.
Just like everyone else, I have been through my share of hassles with cars, and a part of me just wants to go with the stock width, so I don't have to worry about custom backspacing, etc...
For those of you with narrowed 9" rear ends, is it pretty standard for the backspacing?
In otherwords, if I told you I have a rear that's narrowed 3", and I want to run 15 x 10 rims, could you tell me what backspacing I'd need right off the bat, or is there a lot of 'trial and error' to get a rim that fits right?
I don't want to have to shell out extra $$ for custom rims after this is all said and done!
What do you guys think? Thanks in advance!
#2522
11 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Like you i was undecided whether to go stock width or narrowed.. i ended up getting it narrowed 3" per side, and im happy i did, it does look really good with the big lip, as for rims back spacing its really simple if you go with a 3" per side, on a 15x10 rim you'll need a 4.5 backspacing, which is what im running right now. Stock backspacing is 7.5 so if you take 3" of each side that leaves you with 7.5 - 3= 4.5, its pretty simple. hope that help and congrats on the new rearend, its a really nice piece.
Would it be better to keep the stock width for road racing? (I realize that the wheel would still be in the same position either way, but I'm wondering if it would be stiffer with the full width rear end vs narrowed...)
#2523
10 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got my MWC 9" on the weekend and thought I'd share a few things.
First off, the workmanship looks great. I used to be a welding inspector and can be pretty critical of welds. They looks great on this.
Above was asked about a road racing/drag racing car. I currently use mine for both. There are comprimises to be made. The Watts link is a really nice enhancement to the rear suspension. Also go for the long TA, the short one can unsettle the car into corners. I had the Fayes2 on my 12 bolt as well as a CrMo long TA and loved it. If you are buying the MWC Watts set up I suggest asking for an rodend upgrade. I have ordered new ones to replace the standard ones they come with.
New diff and the old 12 bolt.
![](https://by1.storage.live.com/items/6FAE0EC71CEF8D21!2858:Scaled1024/IMG_6615.JPG)
![](https://by1.storage.live.com/items/6FAE0EC71CEF8D21!2860:Scaled1024/IMG_6617.JPG?)
Old Watts vs the New one.
![](https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1prkDKt9gs8OtuuFYrn28UeJYzl4jm1GWbe37a2AXJcQM_7H3xIdDnodLtoExE4sdiBeCBFfEDEyItYCvRXwDyfg/IMG_6611.JPG)
Old torque arm vs the new one.
![](https://by1.storage.live.com/items/6FAE0EC71CEF8D21!2857:Scaled1024/IMG_6614.JPG)
Did some weighing to see if I saved some weight, I was happy that it will knock 47.5 lbs out of the weight of the car. Not as much off the diff as I would have thought, but I had heard the Wave Trac was heavy.
BTW my set up is:
Alum Center
Wavetrac
35 spline
reinforced back brace
tow loops
Watts
4 ch. ABS rings
powder coat
I am sure a spool, 31 spline alxes and no back brace would be much lighter, not sure what the 10 bolt weighs, or a old style Moser 9".
Moser 12 bolt, 212lbs + Fayes Watts, 26.5lbs + Torque arm, 30.5lbs for a total of 269lbs.
MWC Fabbed 9", 192.5lbs + Watts, 11.5lbs + Torque arm, 17.5lbs for a total of 221.5lbs.
First off, the workmanship looks great. I used to be a welding inspector and can be pretty critical of welds. They looks great on this.
Above was asked about a road racing/drag racing car. I currently use mine for both. There are comprimises to be made. The Watts link is a really nice enhancement to the rear suspension. Also go for the long TA, the short one can unsettle the car into corners. I had the Fayes2 on my 12 bolt as well as a CrMo long TA and loved it. If you are buying the MWC Watts set up I suggest asking for an rodend upgrade. I have ordered new ones to replace the standard ones they come with.
New diff and the old 12 bolt.
Old Watts vs the New one.
Old torque arm vs the new one.
Did some weighing to see if I saved some weight, I was happy that it will knock 47.5 lbs out of the weight of the car. Not as much off the diff as I would have thought, but I had heard the Wave Trac was heavy.
BTW my set up is:
Alum Center
Wavetrac
35 spline
reinforced back brace
tow loops
Watts
4 ch. ABS rings
powder coat
I am sure a spool, 31 spline alxes and no back brace would be much lighter, not sure what the 10 bolt weighs, or a old style Moser 9".
Moser 12 bolt, 212lbs + Fayes Watts, 26.5lbs + Torque arm, 30.5lbs for a total of 269lbs.
MWC Fabbed 9", 192.5lbs + Watts, 11.5lbs + Torque arm, 17.5lbs for a total of 221.5lbs.
#2524
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for your input! Does anyone have any input on cars that will be road racing as well as drag racing?
Would it be better to keep the stock width for road racing? (I realize that the wheel would still be in the same position either way, but I'm wondering if it would be stiffer with the full width rear end vs narrowed...)
Would it be better to keep the stock width for road racing? (I realize that the wheel would still be in the same position either way, but I'm wondering if it would be stiffer with the full width rear end vs narrowed...)
#2526
10 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will probably be ordering my rear in in about a week or so. cant wait to get this thing bolted in
I will also be getting the watts link and will have to ask about the rod end upgrade
MWC can you guys send me a PM on a price quote for the EXACT same setup RAMPENT ordered minus the tow loops? I of coarse will be calling to order and will figure out the minor details then but just looking for a round about price on that exact setup
I will also be getting the watts link and will have to ask about the rod end upgrade
MWC can you guys send me a PM on a price quote for the EXACT same setup RAMPENT ordered minus the tow loops? I of coarse will be calling to order and will figure out the minor details then but just looking for a round about price on that exact setup
#2528
10 Second Club
iTrader: (30)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will probably be ordering my rear in in about a week or so. cant wait to get this thing bolted in
I will also be getting the watts link and will have to ask about the rod end upgrade
MWC can you guys send me a PM on a price quote for the EXACT same setup RAMPENT ordered minus the tow loops? I of coarse will be calling to order and will figure out the minor details then but just looking for a round about price on that exact setup
I will also be getting the watts link and will have to ask about the rod end upgrade
MWC can you guys send me a PM on a price quote for the EXACT same setup RAMPENT ordered minus the tow loops? I of coarse will be calling to order and will figure out the minor details then but just looking for a round about price on that exact setup
#2529
11 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
GREAT info in this thread, thanks guys!
What are the pros/cons of 31 spline vs 35 spline axles? I was thinking 31 splines were good enough for my M6 street car that *might* eventually go 10's, but I only want to build this rear end once!
Can you use 35 splines with an aluminum center section, retain 3 ch ABS, etc?
What are the pros/cons of 31 spline vs 35 spline axles? I was thinking 31 splines were good enough for my M6 street car that *might* eventually go 10's, but I only want to build this rear end once!
Can you use 35 splines with an aluminum center section, retain 3 ch ABS, etc?
#2530
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
GREAT info in this thread, thanks guys!
What are the pros/cons of 31 spline vs 35 spline axles? I was thinking 31 splines were good enough for my M6 street car that *might* eventually go 10's, but I only want to build this rear end once!
Can you use 35 splines with an aluminum center section, retain 3 ch ABS, etc?
What are the pros/cons of 31 spline vs 35 spline axles? I was thinking 31 splines were good enough for my M6 street car that *might* eventually go 10's, but I only want to build this rear end once!
Can you use 35 splines with an aluminum center section, retain 3 ch ABS, etc?
Now with that being said many cars can get away with 31SPL axles for a very long time, as long as they are using a quality axle that is. We have had very good luck with Strange axles and as you can assume we have a ton of customers out there using them.
Now on the other hand if you can get 35SPL axles there is no need not to, as they will most likely be the last set of axles you will ever need to purchase for your after market rear end.
Now onto the center section, a light weight aluminum center section is not recommended for heavy vehicles and continues driving. It is designed for light weight drag racing applications. How ever we do have many customers using them on their street vehicles. Normally the biggest issue with an aluminum center is premature gear wear do to case flex and they do tend to let out more gear noise. We have had really good luck with the Yukon Thru-Bolt aluminum center section case for these cars and that has been the popular chose for all around vehicles.
Like i tell many customers though, buying the lightest case such as a Strange aluminum and then adding the heaviest differentials on the market are kind of a wash. It does make a huge difference depending on what you are doing though and your goals for the vehicle could dictate other wise depending if you are building just a driver, drag race, or road racing type vehicle. With these vehicles they are normally a combination of all three. I think the fact that we can build a rear end and cover anything that anyone needs makes us so popular.
That is kind of why we rarely have identical builds on order. We can put so many different combinations together with just the center section it is crazy. Now add what we can do for rear end options and the different things people are doing with these vehicles and you will go insane trying to keep up.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
We can also make 3Ch and 4Ch work with any differential unit. A spool and a Detroit locker will play Havoc with them so keep that in mind.
I hope this helps some and if anyone has any more questions please let us know.
#2532
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We do not actually have any rod end upgrades but if a customer feels they want something more than what comes with the package we can get what ever you feel you may need at the cost difference.
For the most part everyone has been very happy with the FK rod ends we use. We have used all the major manufactures out there and have had best results with FK over all others and we chose which static load rate to use based off it's function.
Eric would explain this better over myself and need be I'm sure he will if there is some confusion.
For the most part everyone has been very happy with the FK rod ends we use. We have used all the major manufactures out there and have had best results with FK over all others and we chose which static load rate to use based off it's function.
Eric would explain this better over myself and need be I'm sure he will if there is some confusion.
#2533
11 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the great info!
So...
Stock width... 7.5" BS rims
Narrowed 2" per side... 5.5" BS rims
Narrowed 3" per side... 4.5" BS rims
Got it!
I have 17x11 ZR1 replicas on the back right now, with 50mm offset (which works out to roughly 7.97" BS?). If I go with a narrowed rim of 2" per side, would I be able to run these rims with a 2" spacer? Or will I have to buy new rims right off the bat?
Thanks!
So...
Stock width... 7.5" BS rims
Narrowed 2" per side... 5.5" BS rims
Narrowed 3" per side... 4.5" BS rims
Got it!
I have 17x11 ZR1 replicas on the back right now, with 50mm offset (which works out to roughly 7.97" BS?). If I go with a narrowed rim of 2" per side, would I be able to run these rims with a 2" spacer? Or will I have to buy new rims right off the bat?
Thanks!
#2534
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the great info!
So...
Stock width... 7.5" BS rims
Narrowed 2" per side... 5.5" BS rims
Narrowed 3" per side... 4.5" BS rims
Got it!
I have 17x11 ZR1 replicas on the back right now, with 50mm offset (which works out to roughly 7.97" BS?). If I go with a narrowed rim of 2" per side, would I be able to run these rims with a 2" spacer? Or will I have to buy new rims right off the bat?
Thanks!
So...
Stock width... 7.5" BS rims
Narrowed 2" per side... 5.5" BS rims
Narrowed 3" per side... 4.5" BS rims
Got it!
I have 17x11 ZR1 replicas on the back right now, with 50mm offset (which works out to roughly 7.97" BS?). If I go with a narrowed rim of 2" per side, would I be able to run these rims with a 2" spacer? Or will I have to buy new rims right off the bat?
Thanks!
#2538
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I
Did some weighing to see if I saved some weight, I was happy that it will knock 47.5 lbs out of the weight of the car. Not as much off the diff as I would have thought, but I had heard the Wave Trac was heavy.
Moser 12 bolt, 212lbs + Fayes Watts, 26.5lbs + Torque arm, 30.5lbs for a total of 269lbs.
MWC Fabbed 9", 192.5lbs + Watts, 11.5lbs + Torque arm, 17.5lbs for a total of 221.5lbs.
Did some weighing to see if I saved some weight, I was happy that it will knock 47.5 lbs out of the weight of the car. Not as much off the diff as I would have thought, but I had heard the Wave Trac was heavy.
Moser 12 bolt, 212lbs + Fayes Watts, 26.5lbs + Torque arm, 30.5lbs for a total of 269lbs.
MWC Fabbed 9", 192.5lbs + Watts, 11.5lbs + Torque arm, 17.5lbs for a total of 221.5lbs.
good info
Thats what I need, I know I can get a 50# lighter setup.
#2539
10 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Curious, as I had my diff shipped assembled.
Is there a magnet in the housing anywhere similar to stock?
I am looking to buy a magnetic drain plug as the one shipped is a standard plug without.
I figure the magnet is good insurance for an expensive investment.
Thanks!
Is there a magnet in the housing anywhere similar to stock?
I am looking to buy a magnetic drain plug as the one shipped is a standard plug without.
I figure the magnet is good insurance for an expensive investment.
Thanks!