Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics
#2581
TECH Addict
iTrader: (11)
got the rearend installed today. other than the brake line issue posted earlier, it went fairly smoothly. couple comments and questions tho.
-for the 4 channel guys - did you have any trouble getting the sensors back in? i had eric assemble mine so when i went to put the abs sensors in, the axle housing is in the way. had to grind down the sensor edge to get them in!:-( there was a little bit of a grove cut in the housing but it really needs to go alot further.
-for the 4 channel guys - did you have any trouble getting the sensors back in? i had eric assemble mine so when i went to put the abs sensors in, the axle housing is in the way. had to grind down the sensor edge to get them in!:-( there was a little bit of a grove cut in the housing but it really needs to go alot further.
-the drive shaft loop is very nice but it REALLY pinches the gas lines on the drivers side. i'll take some pics later. another 1/8 inch clearance would have made a big difference.
2) what hole should the front of the torque arm go in and why.
3) the 3? original ebrake wire loop retainers are not able to be used.
........
also, maybe some install instructions/tips with a few nice, clear, concise pics.
its tedious to try to look/search through 2500+ posts[/QUOTE]
#2582
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
thx. i'm guessing you were able to put the sensors in before you had all the backing plates and stuff tightened down?! i think it probably might be a good idea for others that are having eric assemble it to send their sensors along with the backing plates.
on the fuel lines, etc, i had some time back flipped the brackets so they are up higher into the tunnel so perhaps that makes a bit of a difference. either way, it wouldn't be that hard to add another 1/8 to 1/4 inch for a bit more clearance.
on the fuel lines, etc, i had some time back flipped the brackets so they are up higher into the tunnel so perhaps that makes a bit of a difference. either way, it wouldn't be that hard to add another 1/8 to 1/4 inch for a bit more clearance.
#2586
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
got the rearend installed today. other than the brake line issue posted earlier, it went fairly smoothly. couple comments and questions tho.
-for the 4 channel guys - did you have any trouble getting the sensors back in? i had eric assemble mine so when i went to put the abs sensors in, the axle housing is in the way. had to grind down the sensor edge to get them in!:-( there was a little bit of a grove cut in the housing but it really needs to go alot further.
-the drive shaft loop is very nice but it REALLY pinches the gas lines on the drivers side. i'll take some pics later. another 1/8 inch clearance would have made a big difference.
-for the 4 channel guys - did you have any trouble getting the sensors back in? i had eric assemble mine so when i went to put the abs sensors in, the axle housing is in the way. had to grind down the sensor edge to get them in!:-( there was a little bit of a grove cut in the housing but it really needs to go alot further.
-the drive shaft loop is very nice but it REALLY pinches the gas lines on the drivers side. i'll take some pics later. another 1/8 inch clearance would have made a big difference.
The drive shaft loop goes behind the lines.
Last edited by MidwestChassis; 11-07-2011 at 10:36 AM.
#2587
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
it would be nice if some of the common questions could be put in post 1 or a sticky for the MWC.
e.g
1) what hole from the bottom should the LCAs bolt into and why. i see some at 2 and others at 3?
2) what hole should the front of the torque arm go in and why.
3) the 3? original ebrake wire loop retainers are not able to be used.
........
also, maybe some install instructions/tips with a few nice, clear, concise pics.
its tedious to try to look/search through 2500+ posts
e.g
1) what hole from the bottom should the LCAs bolt into and why. i see some at 2 and others at 3?
2) what hole should the front of the torque arm go in and why.
3) the 3? original ebrake wire loop retainers are not able to be used.
........
also, maybe some install instructions/tips with a few nice, clear, concise pics.
its tedious to try to look/search through 2500+ posts
Again hole will be determined based off your own testing. We suggest starting off on the third hole down as a base setting. Works well for a street driven vehicle with plenty of bite.
Thanks Rampant, first hand customer instal is always the best advice.
#2588
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
ah ha! as i mentioned. a year or two ago i flipped the brackets as others had suggested to get the fuel lines up and out of the way in the tunnel, which puts them right against the body. i'm guessing the old stock way gets them further away from the body to slip the loop behind it. makes sense. that's why a few centralized install pics would be nice.
#2589
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
i'm going to just make new brake lines, but confused on what i need. i read some making double flare ends and then read that its a bubble flare which flaring tool do i need? apparently 3/16 tubing works. what size is the fitting i need to get m10x1.0, or m12x1.0, or ....?
#2590
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
We definitely need to get caught up so we can get pictures of everything we have and how it mounts on the vehicle. Not enough hours in the day with everything we have going on but we are working towards eventually getting a nicer web site with pictures of everything and some helpful tips.
Our past customers have been great on helping new and future customers though and a ton of helpful stuff in this thread alone with pictures. That and if anyone ever needs help I am a PM, email, or phone call away and always willing to answer questions.
Our past customers have been great on helping new and future customers though and a ton of helpful stuff in this thread alone with pictures. That and if anyone ever needs help I am a PM, email, or phone call away and always willing to answer questions.
#2591
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
i'm going to just make new brake lines, but confused on what i need. i read some making double flare ends and then read that its a bubble flare which flaring tool do i need? apparently 3/16 tubing works. what size is the fitting i need to get m10x1.0, or m12x1.0, or ....?
From a customers instals. These appear to be new but from the bends in them they look like new replacements.
#2592
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
maybe they're stock, although that junction doesn't look that way. irregardless, i still think i'm going to make new ones just for the looks so i'm still needing an answer to the previous post questions on flares, etc. it's too nice of a product to ruin it with something simple like this!
#2593
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
That gold block is just a T junction most likely 3/16 inv. female tee.
But I looked up your order and seen you have a 4ch vehicle and unfortunately there is no fitting manufactured for you to use to make your own brake lines to attach to the factory block. So if you are wanting new lines your only chose is to purchase new GM lines and manipulate them to fit if you are not wanting to get rid of 4ch and run all new brake lines on the entire car.
But I looked up your order and seen you have a 4ch vehicle and unfortunately there is no fitting manufactured for you to use to make your own brake lines to attach to the factory block. So if you are wanting new lines your only chose is to purchase new GM lines and manipulate them to fit if you are not wanting to get rid of 4ch and run all new brake lines on the entire car.
Last edited by MidwestChassis; 11-08-2011 at 03:59 PM.
#2596
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
As you can see it is one of the only rear ends on the market that bolt in how the 10-bolt came out. One of the nicest feature is eliminating the stock style torque arm brackets involved with all other rear ends on the market. This helps eliminate weight and fitment issues you will have with other housings on the market today.
#2597
10 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
That gold block is just a T junction most likely 3/16 inv. female tee.
But I looked up your order and seen you have a 4ch vehicle and unfortunately there is no fitting manufactured for you to use to make your own brake lines to attach to the factory block. So if you are wanting new lines your only chose is to purchase new GM lines and manipulate them to fit if you are not wanting to get rid of 4ch and run all new brake lines on the entire car.
But I looked up your order and seen you have a 4ch vehicle and unfortunately there is no fitting manufactured for you to use to make your own brake lines to attach to the factory block. So if you are wanting new lines your only chose is to purchase new GM lines and manipulate them to fit if you are not wanting to get rid of 4ch and run all new brake lines on the entire car.
I can't tell you what I bought, but they fit fine. I took the stock lines to a local autoparts store and they had all the parts in stock. I will look and see if anything is on the bill.