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Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics

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Old 11-06-2011, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mterveen
got the rearend installed today. other than the brake line issue posted earlier, it went fairly smoothly. couple comments and questions tho.

-for the 4 channel guys - did you have any trouble getting the sensors back in? i had eric assemble mine so when i went to put the abs sensors in, the axle housing is in the way. had to grind down the sensor edge to get them in!:-( there was a little bit of a grove cut in the housing but it really needs to go alot further.
I assembled mine & no trouble with the sensors.
-the drive shaft loop is very nice but it REALLY pinches the gas lines on the drivers side. i'll take some pics later. another 1/8 inch clearance would have made a big difference.
The loop is very slick how it tucks up & behind the fuel & brake lines but yes its right next to them. I just cut some sections of fuel & vacuum line & zip tied them around the lines so they wouldnt rub on the loop.


Originally Posted by mterveen
it would be nice if some of the common questions could be put in post 1 or a sticky for the MWC.

e.g
1) what hole from the bottom should the LCAs bolt into and why. i see some at 2 and others at 3?
Depends on your setup & if youre lowered. I have mine in the very bottom hole because I am lowered. You want them level at minimum to prevent wheelhop, or slightly angled down from the body. If theyre aimed upward from the body to the axle you will want to adjust them down some.
2) what hole should the front of the torque arm go in and why.
I got mine in the 2nd hole from the bottom, if its mounted higher it hits the floorboard.
3) the 3? original ebrake wire loop retainers are not able to be used.
The 2 side loops can be mounted on the axle, you need to drill holes in the back of the LCA mount bracket. Thats what I did.
........
also, maybe some install instructions/tips with a few nice, clear, concise pics.

its tedious to try to look/search through 2500+ posts[/QUOTE]
Old 11-06-2011, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
I assembled mine & no trouble with the sensors.
thx. i'm guessing you were able to put the sensors in before you had all the backing plates and stuff tightened down?! i think it probably might be a good idea for others that are having eric assemble it to send their sensors along with the backing plates.

on the fuel lines, etc, i had some time back flipped the brackets so they are up higher into the tunnel so perhaps that makes a bit of a difference. either way, it wouldn't be that hard to add another 1/8 to 1/4 inch for a bit more clearance.
Old 11-06-2011, 01:50 PM
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RAMPANT, what size brake lines did you use and did you reuse the stock fittings? I was thinking about reusing the stock lines but I doubt it will look as clean as I want it to.
Old 11-06-2011, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by camaroz28lt1at
RAMPANT, what size brake lines did you use and did you reuse the stock fittings? I was thinking about reusing the stock lines but I doubt it will look as clean as I want it to.
No I needed new line because I stripped the old nuts taking them off.

As for the size I am not sure. Took the old lines into an automotive supply and bought new line and fittings.

I bent them then went to a buddies and put the fittings on.
Old 11-06-2011, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mterveen
thx. i'm guessing you were able to put the sensors in before you had all the backing plates and stuff tightened down?! i think it probably might be a good idea for others that are having eric assemble it to send their sensors along with the backing plates.
I left my sensors in the backing plates when I did mine.

Originally Posted by camaroz28lt1at
RAMPANT, what size brake lines did you use and did you reuse the stock fittings? I was thinking about reusing the stock lines but I doubt it will look as clean as I want it to.
The brake lines are 3/16 bubble flare with european threads on the fittings. They make a british & a european thread fitting line, the british will not work.
Old 11-07-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mterveen
got the rearend installed today. other than the brake line issue posted earlier, it went fairly smoothly. couple comments and questions tho.

-for the 4 channel guys - did you have any trouble getting the sensors back in? i had eric assemble mine so when i went to put the abs sensors in, the axle housing is in the way. had to grind down the sensor edge to get them in!:-( there was a little bit of a grove cut in the housing but it really needs to go alot further.

-the drive shaft loop is very nice but it REALLY pinches the gas lines on the drivers side. i'll take some pics later. another 1/8 inch clearance would have made a big difference.
We have had some people clearance their ABS sensor and as you can see some have not.

The drive shaft loop goes behind the lines.

Last edited by MidwestChassis; 11-07-2011 at 10:36 AM.
Old 11-07-2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mterveen
it would be nice if some of the common questions could be put in post 1 or a sticky for the MWC.

e.g
1) what hole from the bottom should the LCAs bolt into and why. i see some at 2 and others at 3?
2) what hole should the front of the torque arm go in and why.
3) the 3? original ebrake wire loop retainers are not able to be used.
........
also, maybe some install instructions/tips with a few nice, clear, concise pics.

its tedious to try to look/search through 2500+ posts
Every car will be different and the best result will be based off your own testing. If the car is stock ride height I would suggest on hole down from stock.

Again hole will be determined based off your own testing. We suggest starting off on the third hole down as a base setting. Works well for a street driven vehicle with plenty of bite.


Thanks Rampant, first hand customer instal is always the best advice.
Old 11-07-2011, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
....
The drive shaft loop goes behind the lines.
ah ha! as i mentioned. a year or two ago i flipped the brackets as others had suggested to get the fuel lines up and out of the way in the tunnel, which puts them right against the body. i'm guessing the old stock way gets them further away from the body to slip the loop behind it. makes sense. that's why a few centralized install pics would be nice.
Old 11-08-2011, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
The brake lines are 3/16 bubble flare with european threads on the fittings. They make a british & a european thread fitting line, the british will not work.
i'm going to just make new brake lines, but confused on what i need. i read some making double flare ends and then read that its a bubble flare which flaring tool do i need? apparently 3/16 tubing works. what size is the fitting i need to get m10x1.0, or m12x1.0, or ....?
Old 11-08-2011, 10:26 AM
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We definitely need to get caught up so we can get pictures of everything we have and how it mounts on the vehicle. Not enough hours in the day with everything we have going on but we are working towards eventually getting a nicer web site with pictures of everything and some helpful tips.

Our past customers have been great on helping new and future customers though and a ton of helpful stuff in this thread alone with pictures. That and if anyone ever needs help I am a PM, email, or phone call away and always willing to answer questions.
Old 11-08-2011, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mterveen
i'm going to just make new brake lines, but confused on what i need. i read some making double flare ends and then read that its a bubble flare which flaring tool do i need? apparently 3/16 tubing works. what size is the fitting i need to get m10x1.0, or m12x1.0, or ....?
I think you might be making more work for you than needed considering you have a stock width rear end. With very little manipulating the stock brake lines fall into all our supplied brake tab mounting locations.

From a customers instals. These appear to be new but from the bends in them they look like new replacements.



Old 11-08-2011, 12:56 PM
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maybe they're stock, although that junction doesn't look that way. irregardless, i still think i'm going to make new ones just for the looks so i'm still needing an answer to the previous post questions on flares, etc. it's too nice of a product to ruin it with something simple like this!
Old 11-08-2011, 01:35 PM
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That gold block is just a T junction most likely 3/16 inv. female tee.

But I looked up your order and seen you have a 4ch vehicle and unfortunately there is no fitting manufactured for you to use to make your own brake lines to attach to the factory block. So if you are wanting new lines your only chose is to purchase new GM lines and manipulate them to fit if you are not wanting to get rid of 4ch and run all new brake lines on the entire car.

Last edited by MidwestChassis; 11-08-2011 at 03:59 PM.
Old 11-08-2011, 03:08 PM
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ouch - thanks for the info.
Old 11-08-2011, 04:27 PM
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Can you use a non adjustable panhard bar for a 9 inch stock height? Can you use a umi sway bar too?
Old 11-08-2011, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 02ws.sik
Can you use a non adjustable panhard bar for a 9 inch stock height? Can you use a umi sway bar too?
The MWC fabricated housing is designed to use anything that bolts onto the stock 10-bolt. We also supply all needed hardware with brake line tabs, E-brake bracket, and stock sway bar mounts so you do not have to use muffler style clamps to hold on your sway bar.

As you can see it is one of the only rear ends on the market that bolt in how the 10-bolt came out. One of the nicest feature is eliminating the stock style torque arm brackets involved with all other rear ends on the market. This helps eliminate weight and fitment issues you will have with other housings on the market today.
Old 11-08-2011, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
That gold block is just a T junction most likely 3/16 inv. female tee.

But I looked up your order and seen you have a 4ch vehicle and unfortunately there is no fitting manufactured for you to use to make your own brake lines to attach to the factory block. So if you are wanting new lines your only chose is to purchase new GM lines and manipulate them to fit if you are not wanting to get rid of 4ch and run all new brake lines on the entire car.
I have a 4 channel.

I can't tell you what I bought, but they fit fine. I took the stock lines to a local autoparts store and they had all the parts in stock. I will look and see if anything is on the bill.
Old 11-08-2011, 06:21 PM
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thanks. i'ld appreciate that alot.
Old 11-08-2011, 07:06 PM
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No problem, found it but it got kicked around the shop a bit.



I put all new parts on it while I was at it. Grab a couple spares too, so you can see what they look like.

Old 11-08-2011, 07:12 PM
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Btw the copper nickel line is pricey but so easy to bend and make look good, also nearly as durable as SS.

Also make sure you do not mix up the lines on the 4ch, the computer will be hitting the wrong brake if you do.


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