May 11, 2016, 04:17 PM
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Rear Diff Fluid Change
Rear Diff Fluid Change Now i know theres a good writeup on here called "4th gen ube changes" or something like that, but I just was wondering how risky/hard the rear fluid change is? Some local guys have told me it only takes one bad diff fluid change to blow this crappy ten bolt, so I want to be careful. Thanks for any info in advance fellas.
Still on stock 10 bolt w/ 4.10 gear and a TA girdle cover.
Change fluid once a year w/ synthetic 85w140, a bottle of GM rear diff additive. Knock on wood....still holding up on spray w/MT 325/50 drag radials.
Change fluid once a year w/ synthetic 85w140, a bottle of GM rear diff additive. Knock on wood....still holding up on spray w/MT 325/50 drag radials.
im still on my stock 10 bolt! i changed to royal purple 75-90 when i bought my car, i have a torsen so no need for the additive plus the royal purple already has the additive in it! i have drove about 5,000 miles on the fluid and went to the track once! i will change my fluid probably in about 3,000 more miles!
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TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
The fluid change is easy.
Put a large drip bucket under the rear and remove the 10 bolts from the cover. clean the old gasket material from the housing and cover using a gasket remover or plastic scraper.
Clean the inside of the cover well removing any metal savings from the magnet.
Put a new gasket on and bolt it up - preferrably using a torque wrench.
Remove the filler plug using a square 3/8s socket wrench.
Put the additive in first. Then fill to the top of the filler plug with gear oil. You can use a plunger device for the re-fill which seems easiest. These fillers are sold at parts stores.
Replace the plug and that is it.
I do mine about every 20K.
Put a large drip bucket under the rear and remove the 10 bolts from the cover. clean the old gasket material from the housing and cover using a gasket remover or plastic scraper.
Clean the inside of the cover well removing any metal savings from the magnet.
Put a new gasket on and bolt it up - preferrably using a torque wrench.
Remove the filler plug using a square 3/8s socket wrench.
Put the additive in first. Then fill to the top of the filler plug with gear oil. You can use a plunger device for the re-fill which seems easiest. These fillers are sold at parts stores.
Replace the plug and that is it.
I do mine about every 20K.
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The fluid change is easy.
Put a large drip bucket under the rear and remove the 10 bolts from the cover. clean the old gasket material from the housing and cover using a gasket remover or plastic scraper.
Clean the inside of the cover well removing any metal savings from the magnet.
Put a new gasket on and bolt it up - preferrably using a torque wrench.
Remove the filler plug using a square 3/8s socket wrench.
Put the additive in first. Then fill to the top of the filler plug with gear oil. You can use a plunger device for the re-fill which seems easiest. These fillers are sold at parts stores.
Replace the plug and that is it.
I do mine about every 20K.
Put a large drip bucket under the rear and remove the 10 bolts from the cover. clean the old gasket material from the housing and cover using a gasket remover or plastic scraper.
Clean the inside of the cover well removing any metal savings from the magnet.
Put a new gasket on and bolt it up - preferrably using a torque wrench.
Remove the filler plug using a square 3/8s socket wrench.
Put the additive in first. Then fill to the top of the filler plug with gear oil. You can use a plunger device for the re-fill which seems easiest. These fillers are sold at parts stores.
Replace the plug and that is it.
I do mine about every 20K.
You can use silicone instead of gasket.
I recommend change every 10K
Jeff
