Moser users or future Moser Buyers, advice inside
#21
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I'll be picking up my strange rearend this coming week. as far as witch one is stronger it's pretty hard to say the one with a shitty setup is stronger (mosier) i would think thats just a sales pitch.I did alot of resurch on these rearends. one thing i do like about strange they put your rearend on a dyno for setup and gear break in for minium gear wine and cost was about the same 2460.00 out the door with 33 spline girtle cover and a better posi unit if you have any questions on the rear end or were i bought it from just e mail <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
#22
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I have a Procharger on the car. So its a Centrifugal supercharger.
About the rearend, if I would get the Strange
put in it would go to LPE and have them put it in.
If I choose the Moser I will go local and have
Speed Inc. pop it in. I feel comfortable with
Speed inc. putting my rearend in. If the problem with moser is putting it together, I elminated it, with having them send it apart to Speed Inc.. I was told there is a lil whine no matter what though.
But Im calling Lpe monday to see what kinda price
they give me.
About the rearend, if I would get the Strange
put in it would go to LPE and have them put it in.
If I choose the Moser I will go local and have
Speed Inc. pop it in. I feel comfortable with
Speed inc. putting my rearend in. If the problem with moser is putting it together, I elminated it, with having them send it apart to Speed Inc.. I was told there is a lil whine no matter what though.
But Im calling Lpe monday to see what kinda price
they give me.
#23
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Sometimes it is cheaper to get the parts shipped to you seperately. Thats the way I'm doing it with my 9'' - all the parts are coming seperately and having a local shop set it up. It saves a lot in shipping - plus you can scour the internet for the best price on various parts - my 9'' with aluminum case, pinion support, billet 1350 yoke, housing, 31-35 spline axles, setup for TCS and ABS is going to run around $2100 give or take a bit, which is a lot better than 2400-2500 you get it preassembled plus freight.
#24
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As far as going with a aluminum center section big no no for the street from i was told. your route is what i was going to do.nine inch is strong but i wouldnt use a aluminum center section.when i get my strange i will post pics of the rearend and will see if someone can post pics of a moiser to see the diffrance between them before there painted and out of car i would just like to see the diffrance.
#25
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I've had a Moser 9" with aluminum center section in my '01 SS for about 9 months now. I have no complaints! This is a great rear IMO. With the aluminum center section, it weighs only 10 lbs. more than the stock 10 bolt. There is a small amount of gear whine, but not enough to hear with the radio on. In fact, I kinda like the sound in makes while slowing down, sounds cool. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
#26
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by tuff:
<strong> As far as going with a aluminum center section big no no for the street from i was told. your route is what i was going to do.nine inch is strong but i wouldnt use a aluminum center section.when i get my strange i will post pics of the rearend and will see if someone can post pics of a moiser to see the diffrance between them before there painted and out of car i would just like to see the diffrance. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No probs with my aluminum center, even on the track cutting mid 1.5 60s in an M6. The "big no-no" you may be thinking of is a non daytona pinion support.
<strong> As far as going with a aluminum center section big no no for the street from i was told. your route is what i was going to do.nine inch is strong but i wouldnt use a aluminum center section.when i get my strange i will post pics of the rearend and will see if someone can post pics of a moiser to see the diffrance between them before there painted and out of car i would just like to see the diffrance. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No probs with my aluminum center, even on the track cutting mid 1.5 60s in an M6. The "big no-no" you may be thinking of is a non daytona pinion support.
#29
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Well i got a whopping 6 passes outta my Moser 12bolt with 33spline/abs/tcs HD posi. Whole thing broke. Diff, pinion, ring gear. It was in the car less than a month. And of course, moser wont do anything about it. Best 60ft was a 1.7 and i was only pushing 387rwtq.
I also got mine from Speed Inc and let me just say Larry has been great about it. I wouldnt think twice about buying anything from them. EXCELLENT customer service.
They are gonna be gettin all my business.
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I also got mine from Speed Inc and let me just say Larry has been great about it. I wouldnt think twice about buying anything from them. EXCELLENT customer service.
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#30
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I bought my Moser from Speed Inc. as well and it is loud as heck! I hate it, but I need it to keep my car going with no worries! I guess as soon as I get all of my other stuff done I will spring for a rebuild. I hate the fact that it is not quiet! I probably should have bought a strange, but I didn't know any better! Oh well!
#31
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I have the Moser 12-bolt/33-spline with 4.11's in my '02. Has yet to go down the track or see anything stickier than Nitto Extreme Drags on the back.
All I can say is it definitely whines. Howls might be an overstatement. You can notice it, but just turn on the stereo and it's gone.
All I can say is it definitely whines. Howls might be an overstatement. You can notice it, but just turn on the stereo and it's gone.
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#32
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I installed the new moser rear 2 weeks ago. Got the 4.11 gears and eaton posi. Maybe its too soon to tell, but so far not a peep out of it. The stock 7.5" used to whine a bit over 65mph, the Moser doesn't whine at any speed. We pulled it apart and reset the backlash on the ring gear most importantly. Sure its a bit early to tell if anything is seriously wrong, but here's my point.
I don't mean to play devil's advocate here, but most people that have problems with the moser rears give absolutely no detail from their install. Was the rear properly heat cycled? Did they use Synthetic fluid? Did they actually do anything at all, or just pop it in and fill with fluid. First thing i had noticed was the backlash on the ring gear was not set correctly, which is one cause of gear whine and most deffinately the number one cause of premature gear wear. Some may argue that it should be set "perfect" from the factory if the rear is preassembled, but with any mass produced product this is rarely the case. You wouldn't buy a chevy small block crate motor for a "Race Car" and not open it up. Would you not set the timing, adjust the rocker arms? Hell if it was a serious race motor, you'd pull the crank out rebalance it, make sure the bearing were set correctly, recheck clearances, etc. Some circle track divisions require all cars to use the same motor, do you think they just toss the motor in the car, add oil and expect it to last the entire season? Over and over again you see people ask questions like: "I just put in a new cam should i get a tune?", "I just installed a 125 shot of n2o, should i get a tune?", and the answer 99.9% of the time is YES!!! Why shouldn't it be any different for a rear end? Same goes for anything you intend to beat the **** out of. 6000+ rpm clutch dumps on a 10-bolt, 12-bolt, 9-inch, whatever it may be will bring a rear to an early grave if the ring gear isn't aligned properly or the pinion has slop in it.
The most important point is that when you race a car STUFF BREAKS. There is no such thing as a fail safe rear end, or a fail safe nitrous system, but there are steps that can be taken to extend the life of whatever you are working on, the first step is NOT to just bolt it in.
I don't mean to play devil's advocate here, but most people that have problems with the moser rears give absolutely no detail from their install. Was the rear properly heat cycled? Did they use Synthetic fluid? Did they actually do anything at all, or just pop it in and fill with fluid. First thing i had noticed was the backlash on the ring gear was not set correctly, which is one cause of gear whine and most deffinately the number one cause of premature gear wear. Some may argue that it should be set "perfect" from the factory if the rear is preassembled, but with any mass produced product this is rarely the case. You wouldn't buy a chevy small block crate motor for a "Race Car" and not open it up. Would you not set the timing, adjust the rocker arms? Hell if it was a serious race motor, you'd pull the crank out rebalance it, make sure the bearing were set correctly, recheck clearances, etc. Some circle track divisions require all cars to use the same motor, do you think they just toss the motor in the car, add oil and expect it to last the entire season? Over and over again you see people ask questions like: "I just put in a new cam should i get a tune?", "I just installed a 125 shot of n2o, should i get a tune?", and the answer 99.9% of the time is YES!!! Why shouldn't it be any different for a rear end? Same goes for anything you intend to beat the **** out of. 6000+ rpm clutch dumps on a 10-bolt, 12-bolt, 9-inch, whatever it may be will bring a rear to an early grave if the ring gear isn't aligned properly or the pinion has slop in it.
The most important point is that when you race a car STUFF BREAKS. There is no such thing as a fail safe rear end, or a fail safe nitrous system, but there are steps that can be taken to extend the life of whatever you are working on, the first step is NOT to just bolt it in.
Last edited by bad2000ss; 12-03-2003 at 09:45 AM.
#33
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I just bought my moser today.... posi, 3.73's, 33 spline and TA girdle..... If that 2300 bucks sounds as bad as you all state, I will be very dissapointed with moser. I guess well find out in a couple weeks.
#35
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Please let me know how you make out I am running a little less power than you but would like something to support 1000hp so I never have to worry about it again.Alos interested in your transmission selection and suggestions. Thanks in advance for your feedback.
#36
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He posted this back in 2003!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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#37
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I new to the fbody and am building a 99 ss track car and I just dont get why all of the fbody rears sing. I have had big block 12 bolt with a 4spd w/ slick and beat the crap out of it and never heard a sound out of it also had a 67 gt 390 mustang with a 9" with 6 strombergs with slicks and heard a sound out of it... I think it the Torque Arm is the source of all the problems it has to be flexing the nose of the diff and wipping out the gears/bearings my buddies 99 z28 runs 11.70 and the first time I was in his car I thought I was in a 59 chevy truck his rear was singing like it was blown he said thats the way it is.. WTF and the more I read that seems to be the way every body thinks it should be no f..n way .. I'm going to try a 9" and do what everybody has been using with the 8.8 with the control arm and I'm going to use the S&W rear that the Torque Arm mounts to the housing and not the pumpkin so if the control arm set up wont work or I dont like the way it works I can still use the TA just not on the front of the housing or pumpkin .....
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Well, now that this thread is revived, is anyone still having similar problems with Moser rear ends as previously stated? Or have things gotten better? I just purchased a used Moser 12 bolt so I will be able to have my own opinion soon, just thought I'd see what everyone else is going through.
#40
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My Gears are loud as ****, bought a new set of the Motive street strip gears and will see if it helps. As soon as I started doing WOT runs after the break in the gears started getting really loud.