View Poll Results: How is Strange's gear setup?
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll
Rate my Strange 12-bolt Gear Pattern!
#21
TECH Addict
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When I was an Advance employee I had to go to Napa to get some crush sleeves. They had a pair of them for just a few bucks. I'm sure they would have one for a 12 bolt. Just search for a part number... or maybe you'll get lucky and the counterman will know how to look it up.
#23
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would use a solid spacer....leave the crush sleeve in the bag.
I set up my Moser 12 bolt myself with help from members on another board...it runs nice and quiet now.
This link may help ya with patterns and what changes affect it...
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...pics-does.html
HTH
I set up my Moser 12 bolt myself with help from members on another board...it runs nice and quiet now.
This link may help ya with patterns and what changes affect it...
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...pics-does.html
HTH
#25
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Washington Crossing, PA
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's a bit of an involved process, but once you get it down it's very reproducible. The kit comes with a spacer and some shims. You need to start out high (i.e., thick) and work your way down until you get the correct bearing preload with 150 lb-ft on the nut. Since the smallest shim is only 0.005", you may not have enough shim options to get it exact. The only way I know of getting it there is to machine down the spacer a couple of thou (I guess you may be able to sand it as well, but you need to keep it flat) so that you can tune the thickness a little easier.
#26
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's a bit of an involved process, but once you get it down it's very reproducible. The kit comes with a spacer and some shims. You need to start out high (i.e., thick) and work your way down until you get the correct bearing preload with 150 lb-ft on the nut. Since the smallest shim is only 0.005", you may not have enough shim options to get it exact. The only way I know of getting it there is to machine down the spacer a couple of thou (I guess you may be able to sand it as well, but you need to keep it flat) so that you can tune the thickness a little easier.
Indeed the shims don't always get you where you need to be. I had to sand my Ratech spacer to get the correct rotating torque (I needed very little). I taped a piece of 600 grit on a flat steel plate (table saw top) and figure 8 sanded it till I got the in-lb reading I needed. Worked like a champ. A large difference would definitely be best left to machining.
#27
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That pattern needs less shim but if u have driven it very long most likely it will not help by reshimming. Cruch sleeve has no bearing on pinion depth. If u want it quite better not buy Richmond!
#28
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Washington Crossing, PA
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Indeed the shims don't always get you where you need to be. I had to sand my Ra tech spacer to get the correct rotating torque (I needed very little). I taped a piece of 600 grit on a flat steel plate (table saw top) and figure 8 sanded it till I got the in-lb reading I needed. Worked like a champ. A large difference would definitely be best left to machining.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Since I have access to an NC end mill, I'm just a little more comfortable using that to shave a couple of thousandths.
#29
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Inner & outter pinion bearings are tapered. preload is established as the rollers make contact with the races. The rear housing is cast and then machined. The counterbore for the inner & outter pinion bearing races are machined to a tolerance. No two rear ends have exactly the same space between counterbores. They will all be off a few thousandths because of machining. As you place the crush collar between both bearings and tighten the nut down on the yoke it crushes the crush collar. Once the bearings seat in the races preload will generate as you continue to tighten the nut. Thats the reason the crush collar is longer than it needs to be. It crushes into place once the bearings are right where they are suposed to be so no matter what the tolerance is between counterbores. It then keeps resistance on the two bearings. Some people say that a crush collar will alow the pinion to flex. This is false because the pinion is not held in place by the crush collar. Its is held in place by the taper on the bearings. In a perfect world every rear would be machined the same, if that were the case there would never have been crush collars designed to allow for imperfections in maching. The spacer does not allow for inperfections, the shims provided with the spacer do. The crush collar is they way of getting the best desired preload in an enviornment where there is a tolerance. If all rears were the same there would have never been a reason to design the crush collar, we would have has siolid spacers from the biginning. Since I can not see inside a rear end how will I know when the bearings are bottoming out on the spacer, you may be getting preload but its not because of pressure on the spacer, its because the rollers are mating with the races, so you could get the correct preload and the spacer could be floating around between the bearings. I say use the crush collar.
#31
#34
TECH Addict
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Man... I've been confused about this one: I worked as a counterman for Advance Auto. Once I met a customer who was giving me advice on my, then current, rearend rebuild. He said that in all of his drag cars he simply reused the same crush sleeve! Guys, I have no clue how he knew when he had torqued his pinion nut down far enough... but he seemed to act like he really knew what he was talking about. His current car was a 50's bel air running 11s.
Of course... he did have on bibs with no shirt and I knew he came from the mountains of virginia. I really expected him to say something stupid like: "... and before you put the cover back on it, go ahead and put a whole live trout, a tea spoon of light beer, and one corn nugget inside to make sure the spyder gears don't get hungry." ... or something retarted.
Of course... he did have on bibs with no shirt and I knew he came from the mountains of virginia. I really expected him to say something stupid like: "... and before you put the cover back on it, go ahead and put a whole live trout, a tea spoon of light beer, and one corn nugget inside to make sure the spyder gears don't get hungry." ... or something retarted.