Got My 2012 1SS/RS
#21
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i cracked the throttle today in 1st gear from a slow roll with no traction control on, and the tires spun like hell and wheel hopped so i let off, def felt the power, does feel sluggish down low, but man up top she start pulling good lol, how can i avoid the wheel hop?
#2 Trailing arms.
#3 Toe links.
Do those 3 and you will see a BIG improvement.
#22
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Subframe bushings are #1. They connect the subframe to the car. The stock rubber ones allow the subframe to shift etc. Every other component to eliminate wheelhop is far less effective/almost useless if the subframe itself is still moving.
#2 Trailing arms.
#3 Toe links.
Do those 3 and you will see a BIG improvement.
#2 Trailing arms.
#3 Toe links.
Do those 3 and you will see a BIG improvement.
#23
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I did that as well. They will help a bit also. But some people dont like to run them etc. so I left them out.
So yeah...they are a good idea. The only ones worth buying for daily driving use are the NT555R's. They will last 10-15k and can be driven in the rain. They are not quite as effective on the track...but if you run an nto5r or another more aggressive/even softer DR for DD most are only getting about 3k out of them and are horrible in the rain.
So yeah...they are a good idea. The only ones worth buying for daily driving use are the NT555R's. They will last 10-15k and can be driven in the rain. They are not quite as effective on the track...but if you run an nto5r or another more aggressive/even softer DR for DD most are only getting about 3k out of them and are horrible in the rain.
#24
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I did that as well. They will help a bit also. But some people dont like to run them etc. so I left them out.
So yeah...they are a good idea. The only ones worth buying for daily driving use are the NT555R's. They will last 10-15k and can be driven in the rain. They are not quite as effective on the track...but if you run an nto5r or another more aggressive/even softer DR for DD most are only getting about 3k out of them and are horrible in the rain.
So yeah...they are a good idea. The only ones worth buying for daily driving use are the NT555R's. They will last 10-15k and can be driven in the rain. They are not quite as effective on the track...but if you run an nto5r or another more aggressive/even softer DR for DD most are only getting about 3k out of them and are horrible in the rain.
#25
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You can run a 305/35/20 on a stock rim but it does nothing for you because the contact patch is only as wide as the rim. It would not be the best fit and will have some bulge and could possibly be unsafe...but some do it.
I have 20 x 11 COR rims in the rear so I went with the 305's. 20 x 9 for front rims so I used my 275 pirellis up front.
If your keeping your stock rims buy 275 nitto nt555rs. If you go to an aftermarket rim you would need at least a 10 inch wide rim to run a 305 or 315 correctly.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Here is a calc. You dont want to be off more than a half inch in diameter from stock as a general rule.
Here is a comparison of my 305's vs stock (from the link)...I actually picked up a bit of gearing lol.
Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
275/40-20 4.3in 14.3in 28.7in 90.0in 704 0.0%
305/35-20 4.2in 14.2in 28.4in 89.2in 710 -0.9%
BTW...every time I start my car I turn off all the nannies. All they have been known to do is help break axles.
Plenty of people have broken axles using the launch control. I hardly ever drive my car somewhere without flooring it at least once so I always just turn everything off as my start up procedure lol.
It is good for nothing and with some practice you can easily out launch the axle breaking launch mode.
The only time I would suggest running the nannies is in the rain.
Last edited by UltraZLS1; 03-05-2012 at 07:10 PM.
#26
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The toe links and trailing arms almost eliminated my wheel hop. If you want drag radials I suggest buying a set of 18" C6 Z06 front rims and running those at the track. The 20" NT555r was almost useless on a track. I haven't tried the 20" M/T's but they may be better. If I had kept the car I would have went with a 18" set up and a shorter tire.
It's true, the rear axles are made of glass. Pretty much the entire drive line behind the trans is weak when you have a manual.
It's true, the rear axles are made of glass. Pretty much the entire drive line behind the trans is weak when you have a manual.
#27
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They make the nt555r in the stock 275/40/20 size as well as in the size I have 305/35/20.
You can run a 305/35/20 on a stock rim but it does nothing for you because the contact patch is only as wide as the rim. It would not be the best fit and will have some bulge and could possibly be unsafe...but some do it.
I have 20 x 11 COR rims in the rear so I went with the 305's. 20 x 9 for front rims so I used my 275 pirellis up front.
If your keeping your stock rims buy 275 nitto nt555rs. If you go to an aftermarket rim you would need at least a 10 inch wide rim to run a 305 or 315 correctly.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Here is a calc. You dont want to be off more than a half inch in diameter from stock as a general rule.
Here is a comparison of my 305's vs stock (from the link)...I actually picked up a bit of gearing lol.
Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
275/40-20 4.3in 14.3in 28.7in 90.0in 704 0.0%
305/35-20 4.2in 14.2in 28.4in 89.2in 710 -0.9%
BTW...every time I start my car I turn off all the nannies. All they have been known to do is help break axles.
Plenty of people have broken axles using the launch control. I hardly ever drive my car somewhere without flooring it at least once so I always just turn everything off as my start up procedure lol.
It is good for nothing and with some practice you can easily out launch the axle breaking launch mode.
The only time I would suggest running the nannies is in the rain.
You can run a 305/35/20 on a stock rim but it does nothing for you because the contact patch is only as wide as the rim. It would not be the best fit and will have some bulge and could possibly be unsafe...but some do it.
I have 20 x 11 COR rims in the rear so I went with the 305's. 20 x 9 for front rims so I used my 275 pirellis up front.
If your keeping your stock rims buy 275 nitto nt555rs. If you go to an aftermarket rim you would need at least a 10 inch wide rim to run a 305 or 315 correctly.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Here is a calc. You dont want to be off more than a half inch in diameter from stock as a general rule.
Here is a comparison of my 305's vs stock (from the link)...I actually picked up a bit of gearing lol.
Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
275/40-20 4.3in 14.3in 28.7in 90.0in 704 0.0%
305/35-20 4.2in 14.2in 28.4in 89.2in 710 -0.9%
BTW...every time I start my car I turn off all the nannies. All they have been known to do is help break axles.
Plenty of people have broken axles using the launch control. I hardly ever drive my car somewhere without flooring it at least once so I always just turn everything off as my start up procedure lol.
It is good for nothing and with some practice you can easily out launch the axle breaking launch mode.
The only time I would suggest running the nannies is in the rain.
The toe links and trailing arms almost eliminated my wheel hop. If you want drag radials I suggest buying a set of 18" C6 Z06 front rims and running those at the track. The 20" NT555r was almost useless on a track. I haven't tried the 20" M/T's but they may be better. If I had kept the car I would have went with a 18" set up and a shorter tire.
It's true, the rear axles are made of glass. Pretty much the entire drive line behind the trans is weak when you have a manual.
It's true, the rear axles are made of glass. Pretty much the entire drive line behind the trans is weak when you have a manual.
So how do i correctly turn off all the nannies before i start, i know i hit the button twice, but then i have to hold it down completly???
it cant be that much weaker than my old 7.5 rear in my 4th gen lol
#28
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The rear end isn't weaker but every thing around it is. I broke almost every part of the drive line with bolt-on power. IMO I'd rather have the 4th gens weak rear then all the weak components in the 5th gen drive line.
#29
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im gonna stay with the stock rims in the back so ill just get the 275s,
So how do i correctly turn off all the nannies before i start, i know i hit the button twice, but then i have to hold it down completly???
it cant be that much weaker than my old 7.5 rear in my 4th gen lol
So how do i correctly turn off all the nannies before i start, i know i hit the button twice, but then i have to hold it down completly???
it cant be that much weaker than my old 7.5 rear in my 4th gen lol
If you want to do some hard launches with a 17 or 18 inch rim and tire combo you will need a driveshaft and axles at minimum. That will run you 2000-2500 depending on brand and style etc. The stock axles have been known to break as well as the stock U-joints and the bolts connecting the driveshaft to the rear end.
Their are plenty of better DR's for the strip over the 555r's...but if you plan on daily driving them and keeping the stock 20's their is no other logical option (unless you dont mind replacing them every 3k and having no wet traction). The 555r's gave me a noticeable traction increase on the street and will help you a bit at the track. I went with my 305/35/20 555r set up to try and keep the car controllable on the street with future power upgrades. As Dark SS said...if you want something for the strip the 20s will not be worth a damn...just not enough sidewall. You need a 17 or 18 inch rim and tire combo....but you will need supporting mods to handle them.
Last edited by UltraZLS1; 03-06-2012 at 07:40 AM.
#30
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Everyone will suggest a different break-in method. Some say drive it like grandma, and some say drive it hard asap. I'm not going to offer my opinion on either one, but instead just tell you what I did.
If your car is an LS3/M6: Do not downshift through the gears to slow down or come to a stop, use your brakes.
I had about a 150 mile trip home from the dealership, mostly highway with speed limits ranging from 60-70 mph. Upon leaving the dealership, I tried to vary the rpms and gears as much as possible within reason, without going over 4000 rpm. I would speed up and slow down, switching between gears 3-6, speeds of 50-80 mph. I continued to vary RPM, gears and speed up to 500 miles.
Continuing on, from 500-2000 miles, I continued with this method, but involved some WOT runs in the lower gears, still without going over 4000 rpms. This is when the car really started loosening up and I started noticing slight power gain, slightly more aggressive exhaust note, and smoother shifting.
Oh and congrats!
If your car is an LS3/M6: Do not downshift through the gears to slow down or come to a stop, use your brakes.
I had about a 150 mile trip home from the dealership, mostly highway with speed limits ranging from 60-70 mph. Upon leaving the dealership, I tried to vary the rpms and gears as much as possible within reason, without going over 4000 rpm. I would speed up and slow down, switching between gears 3-6, speeds of 50-80 mph. I continued to vary RPM, gears and speed up to 500 miles.
Continuing on, from 500-2000 miles, I continued with this method, but involved some WOT runs in the lower gears, still without going over 4000 rpms. This is when the car really started loosening up and I started noticing slight power gain, slightly more aggressive exhaust note, and smoother shifting.
Oh and congrats!
#32
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Hold the button down for 7 seconds and the T/C and stability control lights will turn on on the dash. Everything is off.
The rear end isn't weaker but every thing around it is. I broke almost every part of the drive line with bolt-on power. IMO I'd rather have the 4th gens weak rear then all the weak components in the 5th gen drive line.
The rear end isn't weaker but every thing around it is. I broke almost every part of the drive line with bolt-on power. IMO I'd rather have the 4th gens weak rear then all the weak components in the 5th gen drive line.
You can probably get away with (although some havent) just running the 275 DR's at the track. It is unlikely that you will break something with a mild 20 inch drag radial. Some people have broken parts on street tires on the street...others have aggressively launched completely stock drivelines with 17 inch slicks and been fine.
If you want to do some hard launches with a 17 or 18 inch rim and tire combo you will need a driveshaft and axles at minimum. That will run you 2000-2500 depending on brand and style etc. The stock axles have been known to break as well as the stock U-joints and the bolts connecting the driveshaft to the rear end.
Their are plenty of better DR's for the strip over the 555r's...but if you plan on daily driving them and keeping the stock 20's their is no other logical option (unless you dont mind replacing them every 3k and having no wet traction). The 555r's gave me a noticeable traction increase on the street and will help you a bit at the track. I went with my 305/35/20 555r set up to try and keep the car controllable on the street with future power upgrades. As Dark SS said...if you want something for the strip the 20s will not be worth a damn...just not enough sidewall. You need a 17 or 18 inch rim and tire combo....but you will need supporting mods to handle them.
If you want to do some hard launches with a 17 or 18 inch rim and tire combo you will need a driveshaft and axles at minimum. That will run you 2000-2500 depending on brand and style etc. The stock axles have been known to break as well as the stock U-joints and the bolts connecting the driveshaft to the rear end.
Their are plenty of better DR's for the strip over the 555r's...but if you plan on daily driving them and keeping the stock 20's their is no other logical option (unless you dont mind replacing them every 3k and having no wet traction). The 555r's gave me a noticeable traction increase on the street and will help you a bit at the track. I went with my 305/35/20 555r set up to try and keep the car controllable on the street with future power upgrades. As Dark SS said...if you want something for the strip the 20s will not be worth a damn...just not enough sidewall. You need a 17 or 18 inch rim and tire combo....but you will need supporting mods to handle them.
ok cool im gonna give that a try
im not gonna track the car, just using it for the street and shows, the car wont be launched or beat on, only WOT once in a blue moon
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Any reason this would be bad?
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#38
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i actually had a couple ford service techs tell me that while i'm doing no harm in running a proper break-in on my car, it wasn't necessary, as all of these coyotes are "spun up" at the factory. those are his words.
#39
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good to hear, is there anyway of running my VIN number to see wut the production number of my car is and where it was built?