ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

what fuel pump are you guys going with?

I have a guy bringing in a 10' that currently has full exhaust, but wants a eforce(he bought it already) and bought a cam too. I know the stock pump is screaming at a touch over 500hp N/A, so i'm sure this car will need a pump with boost.

i've messed with a couple big n/a hp 10s, 520-600 WHP and they needed pumps. What are yall running for boosted cars? twin in tanks?

gc302047

iTrader: (4)

ive seen people running the twin in tank walbro set ups

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

I dynod the car today before any new mods, it has kooks longtubes and flowmaster catback w/ a predator. 416HP

Frost

iTrader: (45)

RPM made over 700rwhp with STOCK pump, pump booster, and injectors...

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

yea boostapump may be all he needs on this one

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

got the car put together, dissapointing numbers though.

I cant tell if maybe the belt is slipping, clutch is slipping (its stock) or what

tune up is good and its on 18-20 degrees with no knock retard, feels strong on the street driving it.

but 470hp/560 ftlbs just seems like a weird combo, not to mention the car made 417 w/ bolt ons. seems to me like that power number is what itd make cam only, tq is decent but idk. maybe its dumping boost or something, I need to put a gauge on it and see whats its even making on the pulley that comes in the kit.

cam is a 225/230 .618/.612 114

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Look at the IAT rise... that blower will want a lot of timing; barely lower than stock. Towards the end of the pull as the IATs rise, the timing falls off. A small timing loss makes a big HP loss on a PD blower. Look at what your timing is doing in the last log you took up top.

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

she was at 19.5 from about 5000 to redline.

didn't seem to want any more than 19.5 or 20 degrees before hitting KR, I can hear it ping with any more than that. I'm sorta stumped, but I guess it is what it is. Sounds clean and pulls great, it could always be the dyno or clutch acting up.

I found out this was the 6lb pulley for sure also.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

At face value, it would seem like you should be able to run more than that... I had a 2010 with a 10:1 427 and spinning a mag2300 to make 15psi on that big engine and I was running 19-19.5 on it up top to finally make the number. It was still making sizeable gains with each degree of timing up until about that point. What kind of IAT rise does the blower have through one pull?

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

id have to go back and look in logs, its actually not as bad as I thought itd be though. my buddy ordered the 2.75 pulley so we will let her eat on that and see what happens. Also i'm wondering if the duration is bleeding off boost? I didnt think the cam was big enough for that but i'm not the one that picked it out.

Edelbrock said to put at least 24 degrees in it, but it just dont want it!

what kind of air fuel have you seen on a blown ls3 do the best? I've got it at mid 11s across the board. maybe i'm just completely wrong

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

They like timing due to the efficiency but I've seen the same problems your having. On a non-load dynojet I could run 20 degree's of timing.On my loaded mustang it wouldn't take over 15 degree's without pinging.

You really need to log boost and the dyno can show belt slip if you look at MPH. The Cam could be bleeding off or floating valves.

The blower dictates the power more than the Cam will.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I had 19 in it on the street pulling through the gears without knock.

Also those blowers are overly sensitive to AFR. I ran this one at 11.8-11.9:1 and the gain was substantial from 11.5:1.

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for all the input guys. When he gets the pulley in i'll throw it back on the dyno and log for boost and see whats going on. If the cam is dumping boost, it shouldn't be as bad on the 2.75 pulley as it is now, if its doing that at all.

Ryne @ CMS

iTrader: (10)

very true i have trouble getting more then 16 degree in these things with Maggies at 8psi.... i to have a load dyno (dyno dynamics) on the street you may not see knock retard in the low gears, but what about in 4th,5th gear ?that is when there is alot of load on those puppies and thats when knock happens.... the car has to be tuned for all environments, not just a inertia dyno and low first few gears.... 20 degrees is alot of timing in my opinion

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I agree, it's an un-nerving amount... but it's all gone with IAT rise after the first pull. You get that on the first cold rip through the gears on the street or first pull on the dyno. Just like the older cars with PD blowers; most of my timing work is spent in the IAT modifier. The car I mentioned was down just over 100rwhp on the second pull from the IAT climb. It also was a 9.5:1 motor.

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

Well I figured out belt slip was horrible, its got a shorter belt now.

ONLY change was shorter belt. it made 640HP and 590 Tq. Still on 6lb pulley.

He still hasn't got a boost a pump for it, so this is on injectors and stock pump. I told him not to run it hard until he gets the BAP. It goes leanER at about 5600 and up.

needless to say he's happy now with it.