2010 KR issue solved
#1
2010 KR issue solved
Little background, received my 2010 SS in May of this year and from day one I was having KR issues and by reading up on this I've heard different things. Timing table is too agressive, knock sensors too sensitive. I have HP Tuners and sure as hell I was losing as much as 10deg of timing at times. Tried Sunoco, Shell and Mobile for fuel no difference all 93 octane. Went to the track and had several runs temp around 86deg, added octane booster and still upto 10deg of timing kicked back due to KR in stock form.
Solution to my problem: Long tube headers, no cats with magnaflow, adjusted fans to run at 195deg. I did not touch the timing table or any other table and I am getting zero KR. It's been hotter than usual hear in new england. I think that the combustion chamber is extremly hot for effeciency with the LS3 and once you can move that heat out faster the less KR you might run into...that was my case. My advise is before messing with the timing tables find a way to get the engine cooler
Solution to my problem: Long tube headers, no cats with magnaflow, adjusted fans to run at 195deg. I did not touch the timing table or any other table and I am getting zero KR. It's been hotter than usual hear in new england. I think that the combustion chamber is extremly hot for effeciency with the LS3 and once you can move that heat out faster the less KR you might run into...that was my case. My advise is before messing with the timing tables find a way to get the engine cooler
#2
LSX Mechanic
iTrader: (89)
You can all max out the KR decay, which will prevent knock from hanging around forever. I do not desensitize the sensors at all like some others do, but I do max out decay which helps eliminate false knock, and shows more accurate logging about where real knock is.
The 2010's are bad about it though. I've seen several bone stock cars pulling 4-6 degrees at part throttle.
The 2010's are bad about it though. I've seen several bone stock cars pulling 4-6 degrees at part throttle.
#3
I've been doing a lot of reading before trying to do any changes. I am pretty green when it comes to HP Tuners, but I've been working on cars a long time. I was one of those guys losing 6deg or more at half or 3/4 throttle as with most engines heat is a big factor but heat is a big factor in efficiency too. So far in 3 weeks since the header install and turning the fans on earlier I have not seen any KR and a huge difference in power.
Question on Power Enrichment for the 2010, from the factory it's set at .02 what should that be set at or a good starting point to set the PE? Thanks!
Question on Power Enrichment for the 2010, from the factory it's set at .02 what should that be set at or a good starting point to set the PE? Thanks!
#4
The 2010's like a slightly richer AFR than what you would expect. The only way I can tell you to find what your car likes is to rent a dyno. Also pay attention to keep timing away from from the 4800-5200 RPM range. There are spots in the timing table where you can add 6-8 degrees if not more and the car will respond nicely to it but there are other spots that really need a couple degrees taken away from it.
#5
You can all max out the KR decay, which will prevent knock from hanging around forever. I do not desensitize the sensors at all like some others do, but I do max out decay which helps eliminate false knock, and shows more accurate logging about where real knock is.
The 2010's are bad about it though. I've seen several bone stock cars pulling 4-6 degrees at part throttle.
The 2010's are bad about it though. I've seen several bone stock cars pulling 4-6 degrees at part throttle.
Whats kind of numbers do you recommend in the decay table? How do you feel about adjusting the KR Attack? I reduced mine a by almost half, so if it does retard timing, it's not quite so aggressive.
Thanks,
Tim
#6
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
The 2010's like a slightly richer AFR than what you would expect. The only way I can tell you to find what your car likes is to rent a dyno. Also pay attention to keep timing away from from the 4800-5200 RPM range. There are spots in the timing table where you can add 6-8 degrees if not more and the car will respond nicely to it but there are other spots that really need a couple degrees taken away from it.
Low RPM there is a LOT of work to be done with the timing table...and the car loves it.