not happy at all, might decide to sell
12-15-2008, 07:44 PM
#41
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: new york
Posts: 606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 2000 WS6 Formula I ran 12.8's with and could stay behind a c5 by 3 cars and to a camaro that my friend has by about 5 well I installed NGK55 plugs MSD wires and a BBK SS1 intake manifold, I lost a *** load of torque, its like the car got married and lost its *****. I however only lose by about 2 cars to the C5 and can stay with the camaro on the high end.
I want to know what is so fucked up with the car I thought I should nain both HP and Torque with the new plugs, cleaning the motor out a lil, and the intake wtf gives. I have recently not liked my car and I can tell you this I almost lost to a Charger R/t tonight, if I would have I would have sold the car for a dollar.
I want to know what is so fucked up with the car I thought I should nain both HP and Torque with the new plugs, cleaning the motor out a lil, and the intake wtf gives. I have recently not liked my car and I can tell you this I almost lost to a Charger R/t tonight, if I would have I would have sold the car for a dollar.
i so agree with you. this past summer i did a new motor, clutch and supercharger. it only put down 656 rwhp and ive spun the car around twice gunning it 75mph in 3rd. my fuel trims are out of wack and i have to bleed the clutch some more, but im fed up. i mean i bolted all this stuff in and it should just work right out of the box. it shouldnt matter if the car was designed for it or not, it should just work like stock!!!!!!!!!!!
12-15-2008, 07:53 PM
#42
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,010
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had to get the codes checked, I am throwing a cat code( there shot i am getting LT/tune 
) I am throwing a vacuum code and still my stupid knock code I replaced both knock sensors wtf gives
also my oil pressure gauge is reading 110 PSI all the time I don't know how to fix it I just recently put a new one in after breaking the old one
) I am throwing a vacuum code and still my stupid knock code I replaced both knock sensors wtf givesalso my oil pressure gauge is reading 110 PSI all the time I don't know how to fix it I just recently put a new one in after breaking the old one
12-16-2008, 12:08 AM
#45
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DE La Ware
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vaccum leak that prob led to crapload of fuel being dumped that blew your probably already borderline O2's. We all no how the O2's like to burn up when somethings not right. Ive driven my car 4,000 miles and already went through a set. Unfortunately you may have to pull the intake and do it again but try the easy stuff first.
Do you notice it missing at all? or is it still smooth but slower?
Do you notice it missing at all? or is it still smooth but slower?
12-16-2008, 12:51 AM
#47
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NW burbs of Chicago
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had to get the codes checked, I am throwing a cat code( there shot i am getting LT/tune ) I am throwing a vacuum code and still my stupid knock code I replaced both knock sensors wtf gives
also my oil pressure gauge is reading 110 PSI all the time I don't know how to fix it I just recently put a new one in after breaking the old one
) I am throwing a vacuum code and still my stupid knock code I replaced both knock sensors wtf givesalso my oil pressure gauge is reading 110 PSI all the time I don't know how to fix it I just recently put a new one in after breaking the old one
12-16-2008, 03:31 PM
#50
There are a lot of things to unhook to replace the intake, I would agree with everyone else and say go over it again, maybe take it off and start the hell over with some new gaskets. Just upgrading the intake to the 85mm BBK shouldn't confuse your pcm enough to get 8 mpg. It sounds to me like your tranny is slipping if that is the case and you can't do a burnout, but then again why are you trying to do a burnout if you car is running like ****, or even going to the track for that matter. Not trying to be an ******* but, car runs bad --> beat hell out of car --> car is now more broken.
12-16-2008, 03:53 PM
#51
11 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are throwing a code for you cats that means you have a bad O2 sensor. It would also cause you to run rich or lean, in your case rich. It would really explain the 8 mpg but not so much the HP. 
Clean you MAF sensor and check for vacuum leaks, using break cleaner and lightly spray it on the hoses while car is on. This is my guess for loss in power.
Clean you MAF sensor and check for vacuum leaks, using break cleaner and lightly spray it on the hoses while car is on. This is my guess for loss in power.
12-16-2008, 05:44 PM
#53
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,010
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I say I can't do burnouts I didn't mean I tried it I meant I couldn't
I did break the one knock sensor tab, but I fixed it, so how much are O2 sensors and will I need them after I get catless headers?
I did break the one knock sensor tab, but I fixed it, so how much are O2 sensors and will I need them after I get catless headers?
12-16-2008, 06:05 PM
#54
The people saying to get LT's and a tune are just plain stupid...there's something else wrong with your car. 8mpg is so F-ed up it's obvious there's something going on. You've got codes for vac leak and cats...find the damn vac leak, fix the cat/O2 issue and gap your plugs at 0.050...problem solved. And if you go catless then you don't need the rear O2's but you absolutely need the front O2's, just put sims on for the rears or get the check engine light tuned out.
12-16-2008, 09:19 PM
#56
TECH Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The people saying to get LT's and a tune are just plain stupid...there's something else wrong with your car. 8mpg is so F-ed up it's obvious there's something going on. You've got codes for vac leak and cats...find the damn vac leak, fix the cat/O2 issue and gap your plugs at 0.050...problem solved. And if you go catless then you don't need the rear O2's but you absolutely need the front O2's, just put sims on for the rears or get the check engine light tuned out.
I completely agree, if the car ran fine before the exhaust is the least of you problems at the very least it should at least run like it did before. Check the gap on you plugs, make sure you didn't screw up one of the wires. If that doesnt do it take the intake off and redo it. Sounds like a port leak to me.
