View Poll Results: What are your opinions?
Royal Purple
108
45.38%
Mobil 1
130
54.62%
Voters: 238. You may not vote on this poll
Royal Purple or Mobil 1?
12-19-2009, 02:12 PM
#303
Everybody in here seems to be the subject matter expert (not bashing anyone), but I would like to see documented proof of these test? Everyone here says ITS A PROVEN FACT, okay so where is the proof? I used mobil 1, then switched to RP and its been a charm ever since, oil pressure is high as heck.
A moderator posted two pictures showing oil viscosity levels, can some one explain that to me since it just looks like a bunch of numbers to me. If RP or M1 weree sooo terrible why are they one of the top selling brands out there? Even if they just market them selves really good if people were having engine damage as a result of using these oils I am pretty damn sure their reputation wouldnt be nearly as good. They DAMN well would not be able to afford paying GM, porsche, Audi, Mercedez, BMW, etc.. to put the fancy Mobil 1 sticker on their oil caps. Especially companies like Benz and BMW who have so much pride in their vehicles would advertise **** on their oil fill caps? Not to mention if the GC oil was gods gift to the hotrodder then why wouldnt German companies advertise it?
As a matter as fact I have always heard that RP is some of the best stuff you can buy, until I stumbled onto this thread.
Again not bashing or under mining any one on here, just want to see all these "PROVEN FACTS".
A moderator posted two pictures showing oil viscosity levels, can some one explain that to me since it just looks like a bunch of numbers to me. If RP or M1 weree sooo terrible why are they one of the top selling brands out there? Even if they just market them selves really good if people were having engine damage as a result of using these oils I am pretty damn sure their reputation wouldnt be nearly as good. They DAMN well would not be able to afford paying GM, porsche, Audi, Mercedez, BMW, etc.. to put the fancy Mobil 1 sticker on their oil caps. Especially companies like Benz and BMW who have so much pride in their vehicles would advertise **** on their oil fill caps? Not to mention if the GC oil was gods gift to the hotrodder then why wouldnt German companies advertise it?
As a matter as fact I have always heard that RP is some of the best stuff you can buy, until I stumbled onto this thread.
Again not bashing or under mining any one on here, just want to see all these "PROVEN FACTS".
12-19-2009, 02:23 PM
#304
5 minutes reading online and I found this, http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
For everyone who says "My oil looked dirty", apparently that means its doing its job
Quoted
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
For everyone who says "My oil looked dirty", apparently that means its doing its job
Quoted
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
12-19-2009, 02:38 PM
#305
5 minutes reading online and I found this, http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm
For everyone who says "My oil looked dirty", apparently that means its doing its job
Quoted
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
For everyone who says "My oil looked dirty", apparently that means its doing its job
Quoted
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
Didn't I basically say this word for word more or less.... props for finding media to back me up but ya exactly what that says...
12-19-2009, 04:13 PM
#306
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Everybody in here seems to be the subject matter expert (not bashing anyone), but I would like to see documented proof of these test? Everyone here says ITS A PROVEN FACT, okay so where is the proof? I used mobil 1, then switched to RP and its been a charm ever since, oil pressure is high as heck.
A moderator posted two pictures showing oil viscosity levels, can some one explain that to me since it just looks like a bunch of numbers to me. If RP or M1 weree sooo terrible why are they one of the top selling brands out there? Even if they just market them selves really good if people were having engine damage as a result of using these oils I am pretty damn sure their reputation wouldnt be nearly as good. They DAMN well would not be able to afford paying GM, porsche, Audi, Mercedez, BMW, etc.. to put the fancy Mobil 1 sticker on their oil caps. Especially companies like Benz and BMW who have so much pride in their vehicles would advertise **** on their oil fill caps? Not to mention if the GC oil was gods gift to the hotrodder then why wouldnt German companies advertise it?
As a matter as fact I have always heard that RP is some of the best stuff you can buy, until I stumbled onto this thread.
Again not bashing or under mining any one on here, just want to see all these "PROVEN FACTS".
A moderator posted two pictures showing oil viscosity levels, can some one explain that to me since it just looks like a bunch of numbers to me. If RP or M1 weree sooo terrible why are they one of the top selling brands out there? Even if they just market them selves really good if people were having engine damage as a result of using these oils I am pretty damn sure their reputation wouldnt be nearly as good. They DAMN well would not be able to afford paying GM, porsche, Audi, Mercedez, BMW, etc.. to put the fancy Mobil 1 sticker on their oil caps. Especially companies like Benz and BMW who have so much pride in their vehicles would advertise **** on their oil fill caps? Not to mention if the GC oil was gods gift to the hotrodder then why wouldnt German companies advertise it?
As a matter as fact I have always heard that RP is some of the best stuff you can buy, until I stumbled onto this thread.
Again not bashing or under mining any one on here, just want to see all these "PROVEN FACTS".
We tell everybody to look it up for themselves because quite frankly, its been discussed to death and back on here. There is a wealth of information on this very forum and many others concerning oils but you have to do your own research to find what YOU are looking for.
RP is good however its designed to be in high strung motors that see race time. Its impractical for the street IMHO. Great for the strip and street races but yea.
12-19-2009, 05:46 PM
#309
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Thats the tests. Pretty well detailed. I run Q horsepower in my stuff. Not the best, but not super expensive either.
12-19-2009, 05:55 PM
#310
what a scientific test... replace old oil and replace it with new oil and see what kind of figures you get...great...so smart.
Why not drain the fluid and replace it with new fluid, say valvoline sythetic in the diff, regular mercon 3 in the trans, and some regular 5w30 and see what your baseline is. Then swap it with RP and see what you get.
Why not drain the fluid and replace it with new fluid, say valvoline sythetic in the diff, regular mercon 3 in the trans, and some regular 5w30 and see what your baseline is. Then swap it with RP and see what you get.
12-20-2009, 08:25 PM
#313
This whole thread doesnt convince me that any oil is better then one another! Everyone here says one oil sucks "its been proven in test". I will agree with thoe that mobil 1 isnt on par (not necessarily bad) with other oil brands. Mainly because both my LS1 vehicles have burned up mobil 1 regularly, but I havent had any problem with RP as of yet. But even my mobil 1 LS1 Z28 that I sold two years ago is still rolling around with no problems and by now it should easily have over 100K miles.
12-21-2009, 10:16 AM
#314
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And last I investigated, their 0w40 and 5w40 are still Group IVs. Not sure if that has changed, but I'm still seeing the same performance from them.
You GC people tend to worry far too much about oil.
12-21-2009, 10:25 AM
#315
This post is seriously off base. M1 might not be the best synthetic in every grade, but it's not "worse than no-name dino oil". That's just silly.
And last I investigated, their 0w40 and 5w40 are still Group IVs. Not sure if that has changed, but I'm still seeing the same performance from them.
You GC people tend to worry far too much about oil.
And last I investigated, their 0w40 and 5w40 are still Group IVs. Not sure if that has changed, but I'm still seeing the same performance from them.
You GC people tend to worry far too much about oil.
Yes very true, some people on LS1tech it self will make you afraid of turning your car on.
LS1tech: Where everybody is an expert!
I also love the people on here who say "my engine blew up when I used oil XXX". But dont take into account that they have a king kong **** sized cam, heads, stock rods and a 150 shot. But yeah the oil is certainly what led to the engines demise. Seriously get real.
12-21-2009, 07:47 PM
#316
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12-23-2009, 01:48 PM
#320
Most places will tell you that if you use a different oil every time that the "residual" oil left could interfere with detergents that are in the new oil. Each oil is formulated a little different and your effectiveness of the new oil could be impacted by have a "mix" of differant oils. Long term effects though I would guess to be fairly minimal. But just pick a brand of oil and stick with it. After a couple oil changes, with the same oil, you shouldn't have to worry. Or do a complete flush of your oil, I guess "seafoam"??. I've never used that myself but, that's another way to insure your getting the most out of your oil.