YES. EXACTLY. The thinner the oil is at it's cold rating the better. The most difficult moment for an engine and it's oil is when it's cold.

Look at it this way: A 20W-50 racing oil is meant to be used by race crews that pre-heat the oil/engine with coolant heaters or oil pan blanket heaters. Imagine starting a cold engine with 20W-50. How long until the oil really starts flowing? Until then, it's like not having oil.

The best oil cooler adapters are the ones with a thermostatic bypass that doesn't send oil through the cooler when the oil is still cold. I have a thermostatic bypass valve on my Monte since the mid 1980's. This is nothing new.

Just find, purchase and use the GC 0W-30. So many have done the research over the years.

 

Actually, it gets thicker as it warms up to help it actually semi-adhere to your engine components at high pressure, high temp, etc.. The ability to do this with a liquid was an amazing thing when it was new. Certainly 20w50 is too thick for most engines. It can certainly cause a lot of wear. Racers rebuild their engines far more often than most of us, and with better parts.

 

No...Its doesn't. It actually gets thinner. Pretty obvious really since you change your oil when its hot, so it flows out better, is thinner, etc.

 

You don't need to do that. However, the first number is cold viscosity, second hot, and the higher the number, the thicker it is.

 

First off, oil DOESN'T get thicker when it gets hot, second, the numbers don't really mean to much. Some 40 will be the same when there hot as a some 30, etc. And third, the second number isn't the viscocity when its hot. The viscosity changes when it gets hot. Also, the common misconception of the first number, is that a 0W or 5W is to thin, is completely f'ing wrong. Regardless of that first number, its gonna be to thick on startup, but the lower the number, the better the protection right after startup until the oil THINS out when it gets hotter. Your conception of oil is completely f'ed up and you need to do some research.

 

Right on! I was wondering about this magic oil that thickened in viscosity when heated.

Most brand name oils on the market are very, very good. Honestly, you won't see any real performance gains due to reduced friction. The GC is just better in it's durability when on the edge. Amsoil, RP, Lucas, whatever you use, DON'T USE ANY ADDITIVES as they mostly make things foam up.

And don't ever, ever use any filter from Fram or a re-branded filter made by Fram. Mobil One, Wix, Hastings, Amsoil and what I use, Fleetguard made by Cummins.

Who makes what?

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...180819&fpart=1

and

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...reference.html

So everybody shut the hell up now and go get the GC and be done with it.

 

I agree about not seeing much performance gains amongst most oils, but the shear rate of them is the big thing. RP and Mobil 1 just don't protect as well as GC, Amsoil, etc.

 

I heard from a local amsoil dealer that I must use the amsoil oil filter each time I plan on changing the oil with Amsoil. Is this true or can i stick to using my AC Delco filter?

 

No, not true. HOWEVER, the Amsoil filter is better than the Delco. If it's not overly expensive or difficult to find, stick with the Amsoil filter. Or a Wix, Hastings, K&N or Mobil 1. These are all excellent quality filters and none will do you wrong.

 

Its 25 Canadian for the filter. Dont know the exact conversion rate but lets say 20 USD. Just curious where the info is that states that amsoil filter along with the rest of them are better then the AC Delco one. So the delco is the worst of the bunch?

 

No, the Delco is decent at best, it's never been stated that it's the worst of the bunch.

Fram and filters OEM'd by Fram are the worst of the bunch.

Studying through the oil filter analysis pages linked above and you can see how filters are made, what makes a filter good or bad and who makes what. It's a good bit of reading but it's all there.

None of the links discuss Fleet Guard filters from Cummins. These are the filters I'm using. Unless you live near or have a friend at a Cummins Diesel shop, you'll only find them via mail order. They have very good componants and very high build quality. The ones with five digits have a better filtration medium. Most are smoothies, no filter wrench dimples, just like big rig filters. Hint-hint

Here's a good look into one:

http://home.earthlink.net/~cewhite3nc/id17.html

 

Thanks for the link, however, all that data in it to me is sort of useless due to the fact that I have no general knowledge of what any of those numbers are or what they do.

Im debating on wether or not to go with amsoil+amsoil filter. I got a quote for that and the grand total is 105 Canadian. $80 for the oil + $25 for the filter. 105 Canadian is $86USD.

I dont know if this is a good price or if I should just go with the GC and another oil filter.

 

The Amsoil + Amsoil will work well.

 

Is the price deacent or am I getting ripped?

 

I just spent like 10 bucks and got the K&N oil filter, only for the reason that it has that handy little 1 inch nut on the bottom, makes changing it a breeze.

 

Or....you could use a screwdriver and take off the old filter. Not like you are going to use it again. Spend $6 and get the Mobil 1 filter because its exactly the same thing.

 

ya I had to do that to the last one. Taking the old one off isnt an issue, I just think its easier to put the new one on with the nut there.

 

Well im gonna go with this GC.....now what filter should I pick up?

 

Apparently anything but fram...

 

from reading a test, heres a rundown:

filters you should NOT use:
delco duragaurd
champion
almost every fram
penzoil
STP
quakerstate

GOOD filters:
amsoil
bosch
KN/M1
wix
purolater pure 1/premium plus
NAPA silver/gold
fram tough guard

link to the recommendations:
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar.../opinions.html

test result page:
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...reference.html