how much to get a ls1 block reowned
02-02-2009, 05:37 PM
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how much to get a ls1 block reowned might be buying a block off of a seller on here says it needs to be honed. Just wanting to know about how this runs or about what i should pay.
Last edited by billymz28; 02-02-2009 at 07:22 PM.
02-02-2009, 05:42 PM
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I think you he meant honed not owned. honing is like cleaning out the bores. It depends on the shop call around to machine shops or engine shops to get a idea shouldnt be to much
02-02-2009, 08:38 PM
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^^^^ no do not do it yourself unless you really know what you are doing !! using a drill and a honing bit to hone the block is not very precise. and you will also need a different hone for a different types of piston rings. just give it to a machine shop. it cost about 50 bucks a bore. and you have 8.
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02-02-2009, 10:58 PM
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^^^^ no do not do it yourself unless you really know what you are doing !! using a drill and a honing bit to hone the block is not very precise. and you will also need a different hone for a different types of piston rings. just give it to a machine shop. it cost about 50 bucks a bore. and you have 8.
its gotten expensive then!
02-02-2009, 11:07 PM
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Where the hell are you taking your work to? It cost me $25 a hole for a bore/hone with a torque plate, and another $50 to hot tank it. If it just needs a hone it's going to be considerably cheaper. And unless you have all of the equipment and have done it before it is not recommended that you do it yourself.
02-02-2009, 11:56 PM
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Where the hell are you taking your work to? It cost me $25 a hole for a bore/hone with a torque plate, and another $50 to hot tank it. If it just needs a hone it's going to be considerably cheaper. And unless you have all of the equipment and have done it before it is not recommended that you do it yourself.
thats more around the normal price!
02-03-2009, 06:42 AM
#11
Its so easy a caveman can do it. I've freshened up two motors and they both came out mint. Your just removing glaze and putting a crosshatch back onto the walls.
• De-glaze cylinder walls using an 320 grit flexible ball-hone at 250-350 rpm.
• Lubricate cylinder walls with 10W-30 engine oil or honing oil, as recommended by the de-glazing ball-hone manufacturer.
• De-glaze the cylinders for approximately 20-45 seconds per cylinder.
•Cross-hatch lines should intersect at an angle of approximately 45 degrees
• Too steep an angle will allow oil migration into cylinder, resulting in a thin oil film, which can cause ring and cylinder scuffing.
• Too flat an angle can hold excess oil, causing thicker oil films on which the piston ring rides up or “hydroplanes.”
• The cross-hatch angle on the cylinder wall is determined by the vertical speed of the ball-hone:
• Too slow a vertical ball-hone speed will result in too flat a cross-hatch angle; if the vertical speed of the ball hone is too rapid, the cross-hatch angle will be too steep.
• Cylinder cleaning is the single most critical step after de-glazing of the cylinder walls.
• Pistons, rings and cylinder bores will tolerate slight variations in roughness, cross-hatch angles, etc., but engine components will not tolerate honing stone residue.
After de-glazing, clean cylinders thoroughly with warm or hot water and detergent. Rinse with hot water and lightly oil cylinder walls to prevent rust.
• De-glaze cylinder walls using an 320 grit flexible ball-hone at 250-350 rpm.
• Lubricate cylinder walls with 10W-30 engine oil or honing oil, as recommended by the de-glazing ball-hone manufacturer.
• De-glaze the cylinders for approximately 20-45 seconds per cylinder.
•Cross-hatch lines should intersect at an angle of approximately 45 degrees
• Too steep an angle will allow oil migration into cylinder, resulting in a thin oil film, which can cause ring and cylinder scuffing.
• Too flat an angle can hold excess oil, causing thicker oil films on which the piston ring rides up or “hydroplanes.”
• The cross-hatch angle on the cylinder wall is determined by the vertical speed of the ball-hone:
• Too slow a vertical ball-hone speed will result in too flat a cross-hatch angle; if the vertical speed of the ball hone is too rapid, the cross-hatch angle will be too steep.
• Cylinder cleaning is the single most critical step after de-glazing of the cylinder walls.
• Pistons, rings and cylinder bores will tolerate slight variations in roughness, cross-hatch angles, etc., but engine components will not tolerate honing stone residue.
After de-glazing, clean cylinders thoroughly with warm or hot water and detergent. Rinse with hot water and lightly oil cylinder walls to prevent rust.
Last edited by 99_Z28; 02-03-2009 at 08:23 AM.
02-03-2009, 01:25 PM
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i had one done about 5 years ago but it was a lt1 car and it was 25 a hole. I didnt know if there was a different process for the ls1 seeing how they are sleeved.
02-05-2009, 10:33 PM
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02-05-2009, 10:35 PM
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Where the hell are you taking your work to? It cost me $25 a hole for a bore/hone with a torque plate, and another $50 to hot tank it. If it just needs a hone it's going to be considerably cheaper. And unless you have all of the equipment and have done it before it is not recommended that you do it yourself.
02-06-2009, 03:06 PM
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99_Z28 he said honed not deglazed!! Do not do it yourself!! I work at a race engine shop and hone cylinders all day! You can't get a cylinder straight by using a dingle berry hone, leave it to the professionals. Anyway you can get the cyl straight with a torque plate because you are simulating the head being installed and that itself distorts the top of the cyl. The factory does not use a tq plate when honing but I would recommend it! As for prices I don't know because we are a RACE shop our prices are a little high.
