Syn

I recently bought a lid and magnaflow catback. The exhaust is still not installed yet.

I am wanting to buy either a nice torque converter and trans cooler or some coated Pacesetter headers and ORY for a complete exhaust. I'm having difficulty deciding. I'm holding off on installing the catback so I can do it all at once if I go the headers route.

What would be the best bang for my buck at this point? My car is otherwise stock besides the lid.

Tiny161092

iTrader: (1)

Well if you have the money to get the car tuned after the stall, I would deff go stall. I wish I would have did that now. A stall and 3.73s and your set.

Badguy7

iTrader: (6)

You need to tune the car after you get the Converter, so its better you just get the longtubes & ory then go after the converter and then tune the car all at once.

1WICKDZ

iTrader: (2)

Converter will be more bang for your buck, BUT since you already have the catback I would do the LT headers and Y pipe. You will still notice a good SOTP difference, but nothing like a stall

I would figure in ~150 for the header install, another 50-100 for the catback.
Converter will be at least 200 IMO to install.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

if u could possibly just wait to get the headers, stall, and tranny cooler to get it done at the same time thats what i would do. but if u had to pick one or the either go with the pacesetters!!!


also, another option would be to save up till u have enough money to build a nice strong tranny upgrade and get the converter with it. would be a waste to do a stall, cooler and have your tranny crap out. might as well wait till u have enough money to get a good tranny.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Definitely converter, it will wake the car up 100x more than the exhaust will. You should be able to the catback on the factory setup too.

98TAjwh

iTrader: (4)

definitely try and get the LTs and the converter at the same time so you can get the tuning done for all at the same time.

Z28SteveA4

iTrader: (16)

the converter is deff the better bang for the buck but it would be easier to do the whole exhaust in one shot. You can always do the converter or headers down the road but the converter will drop u more then headers

Flaring Afro

id say headers, since u will need a tune and u are about to put on a catback.

Syn

What is the likelihood of grenading my transmission with a 3400-3600 stall and trans cooler? Car has 73k miles on it now, always well-kept and not beaten on. And I would not beat on it with the converter either--just the occasional trip to the track and some spirited driving now and then.

Edit: I also drive 99.9% of the time on the street so I'm not sure how beneficial the TC would be compared to the exhaust...any thoughts on that?

gymratt

iTrader: (3)

TC is great for the street as long as you don't go ridiculously big on the stall speed. Try to go with a lower str so it doesn't hit the tires too hard since you're 99% street use so most likely rolling on street tires. With the tc say goodbye to the annoying dead spots A4 guys have to tolerate w the stock tc. I haven't stalled my camaro yet because it's 108k mi and not sure I'm keeping it beyond this summer(looking at g8 gt's and the 5th gen camaro). My last two cars were stalled, not only better dig performance but much better from a roll too. 70k ain't bad for mileage as long as trans fluid doesn't smell burnt and black as coal. 4l60e's are a crapshoot, some die at 60k or less, some well past 120k. On avg 80-120k is usually about end of life cycle before rebuild/replace needed.

qwk93ta

iTrader: (13)

The TC will give you more performance, but the LTs will make your car sound much better.....

ZFan88

iTrader: (4)

That's a tough decision, but if you have the money for a stall and cooler, I would buy that first since soo many people overlook that step. Just hold onto it until you collect the headers and y, then the money for the tune. It'll be pretty easy to install all that at once yourself..

allbaugh_04

iTrader: (6)

Do you know how to install either of these parts? Both can be a real pain in the *** if you haven't done them before.

If you get the stall, more than likely you'll need a good set of tires to get any traction. I also didn't enjoy my stall fully, until after it was tuned, that's more money, so keep that in mind. It drove way better so i'd definitely do the tune right away if i were to do it again.

Also, ask yourself this...do you want it to sound good or go a little bit faster?

allbaugh_04

iTrader: (6)

After a high stall installation, you will be flooring it everywhere. If you can somehow refrain from doing this, then i'd be questioning your masculinity. So yes, anyone here would highly suggest a 30-100 dollar cooler to save a 750 dollar tq converter and up to 2000 dollar transmission.

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

Get the stall, mine is around a 3800 and untuned, the only problem is sometimes when I am backing up and take my foot off the gas the car will die. Get a good stall: (circle D, yank, vig, fti) B&M 24K cooler and some MT dr's and you will **** your self the first time you launch it

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

its hit or miss with these trannies sometimes. some guys make there stock trannies last a long time and other crap out with just simple bolt ons and stuff. thats why i was suggesting if your gonna go through the trouble with putting in a stall u might as well wait till u have enough money to build a strong tranny that can handle the abuse you throw at it.

BlackonBlackTA

iTrader: (3)

Do the headers and y since you already are going to be installing the catback. Then when you do the stall you can get everything tuned.

Syn

Thanks for the info so far everyone. For someone paying labor costs (I don't trust myself enough to try anything like this on my own) what is the typical total price for a torque converter?

I can see that I would need the following for a truly effective TC setup:

- TC (I'm thinking a Yank 3600...don't want to cheap out on this)
- Trans cooler
- Installation costs for the above
- Stickier tires
- Dyno tune
- Backup fund for a new transmission just in case

Whew. That adds up quick! Also what is the effect of a TC on the 10-bolt? Am I fast-tracking msyelf to a broken rear end or will the 4L60 puke first? How much would it cost to beef up the transmission enough to handle say a 3600 stall with bolt-ons? Is this even doable on the 4L60? How about after adding a 224 cam? Am I better off budgeting for a different transmission altogether?

At this point I'm leaning towards the LTs and ORY first just because of cost. And sound, I'll admit

allbaugh_04

iTrader: (6)

These are problems we all have to contemplate and no one has an answer to what will break. I can tell you that your a4 will be easier on the 10-bolt than a M6. That is all.

Looks like you got your head on straight now, just gotta figure out what you want to do.

Now you know the consequences if things go wrong, just make your decision and unfortunately prepare for the worst and you'll be fine.

Yes, the 4L60E can hold a TC and bolt-ons...how long? No one knows

Money I spent on mine-

550 for used SS3600 (i don't recommend buying used)
80 for 28k b&m cooler
20 dollars for some of the fittings and hosing i needed
20 dollars or so for auto trans fluid
350 for drag radials
150 for a tune

i know i spent more on other little things i can't remember and i spent a day putting it all in with my friends