bamalt1

iTrader: (7)

It's got 2.73s. I do a lot of highway driving with no hills so they're fine. I've definately been thinking that I should do the stall first. I'm hoping to get into the 12s with the stall, LTs, ORY, and Nitto DRs.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

I have a CTSV with the same 28.8 injectors as you and they're in the 90% DC range with only a 224 cam. My 01 T/A with the same injectors is in the 80s with just bolt ons. Just because you are doing it doesn't mean that it should be done.

What kind of power does your car make?

cody161

iTrader: (18)

your fuel pump should hold pressure after the key is turned off. there are diaphrams in the fuel system that are supposed to keep fuel from running back in to the tank. do you have to crank on your car for a while before it will start?

bamalt1

iTrader: (7)

Sometimes it takes it a second to start but nothing major. It's always started so far.

cody161

iTrader: (18)

one of the tell tale signs of the diaphrams going bad is after the car sets for a while (over night), you will have to crank on the car a couple more seconds because the fuel has to be pushed through the feed line again.

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

Yes that may be true. But you have to realize that you Fast 90/90 combo sucks more air in than my stock LS6 with a stock TB. If I were to buy a 90/90 setup I would have to run bigger injectors. The wideband in the exaust pipe on the dyno tells no lies. If your still running the correct AF all the way across your powerband then your fine. Come on down to Fayetteville Motorsports Park one Sunday and we make a believer out of you.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Well, I don't have a FAST on my CTSV and the FAST on the T/A doesn't do much of anything and my injectors were at 80% on 13:1 AFR before the FAST. And a wideband in place of the stock ones that I run all the time doesn't lie either.

Not saying it can't be done, it's done all the time.

And I'm always at Fayetteville. What is it you have that is so impressive?

Dabom75

iTrader: (3)

(sniff sniff sniff)

Do I smell a race?

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

Oh just something the crew at RPM in Garner threw together for me. I never ask Ryan what % my injectors were running at but he said it was fine unless I went the 90/90 route. The car runs in the 11s so I'm happy with it. It you make it out to Braggin Rights this year I'll be there. Looks like its gonna rain out T & T tonite. Hope you find a cable for the LM1.

RaggedRides

iTrader: (8)

What've you run so far? I went from 13.4s at 104 to 12.9s at 106 with nothing but my Pacesetters and droping my 60ft from a 2.0 to a 1.9. With tires and stall, you ought to be looking at bottom 12s.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

That comes off kind of condescending, but I've never seen anything come out of that shop that really blew me away with impressiveness. People act like there **** is gold if it goes to RPM (espcially on HPJ), but they're just a shop that does what the customer asks and doesn't **** cars up like other shops.

I plan on being at Draggin Rights. Maybe it will be some good weather so I can move up a few more places on the SI list.

Badguy7

iTrader: (6)

My cars over 100k miles, anything i should do to the tranny before i add a stall?? Im thinking of going with a yank 3600, ill add a tranny cooler too. I may also put a performabuit level 2 trans on layaway here soon, should i just wait till then to add a 3600 stall?

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

Always get a cooler and maybe a bigger trans pan. A stall is actually easier on the trans during part throttle driving, but puts a lot more stress on it during WOT. Some last a while some don't.

If you do a stall start putting money aside just in case. Downside is that if the trans comes apart then you may need a new stall as well, but that's the worst case. It could just need a cut a clean. Or maybe you're clutches just wear out and a fluid flush will do.

I would try to find a good used converter for a good deal. Then when you switch transmission you can upgrade or just replace if need be. Or if nothing is wrong with it just resell it.

bamalt1

iTrader: (7)

I haven't been to the track in 2 years so I have no idea what it has ran.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Count one more in for converter...

I would go VIG 3600 or higher.. Depends on cam selection down the road on how big you go. STR plays a roll as well in how good a converter helps..

O and Jon you know you are just a slow bolt on car, quit trying to complete with those big dogs............

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

He's only got an MS4, that's nothing for my stock cam.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

You got to have a donkey dick cam to go fast, we all know that..

jrob56

iTrader: (39)

i vote stall, thats my next big mod. i think i am gonna have to wait till the car is payed off next august though.

sorry for the hijack but do you guys think i should have the trans reuilt/built while im doing it with 120k currently and proly more when i finally get the money for the stall?

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

You'll need a rebuild at some point, stall or not. Might as well do it at the same time, for a couple of reasons.

A lot of times saving for a big purchase means that you buy other small stuff along the way because you don't want to wait to go faster, but a stall is so good of a mod I would recommend not buying anything before it. If you had a stock car, don't waste money on a lid or a catback, just go straight for the stall.

jrob56

iTrader: (39)

ya thats what i keep hearing and once the car is paid off in aug im tearing into big stuff that needs done. id like to just build the trans and throw the stall in at the same time, then a rear end and suspension. then when the engine lets go or needs rebuilt the rest of the car will be able to handle what comes next