Mechanic cost to remove engine?
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Mechanic cost to remove engine?
Been working on a new project I have, a white 98 TA that's been previously built for drag racing. Anyways. I decided to, again, pull the motor from the top instead of dropping it. Maybe I shouldn't have done that. All I lack is getting 4 bolts from the transmission to the engine, and the motor mount bolts. This is my first automatic to work with and I didn't realize how much of a pita it was going to be, especially with that huge TCI trans pan under there. I broke my small swivel already that I really need to fit up in there, after having broke a cheap socket... my tool collection sucks. And this bolt I've been working on (at 10 o'clock) obviously should be easier than the top 2 trans bolts. I've almost given up on this and I'm really going to need this car on the road within a couple of weeks. I thought about removing the heads and get the bolts from up top then I realized how terrible of a job that would be. I still have the option to drop the engine/trans, don't really wanna do that here considering safety concerns.
Now my question is, does anyone have an idea what someone would charge me to have them pull this out for me? Maybe even just let them drop the engine/trans. 95% of the accessories/bolt ons I've already pulled off. Keep in mind I don't know of anyone around that would do it as a side job.
Now my question is, does anyone have an idea what someone would charge me to have them pull this out for me? Maybe even just let them drop the engine/trans. 95% of the accessories/bolt ons I've already pulled off. Keep in mind I don't know of anyone around that would do it as a side job.
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Put a small scissor jack between the trans tail and the tunnel. Lightly crank it to make the trans come down in the back. Get 3 to 4 feet of extensions and one swivel joint attached directly behind the socket. Go in near the tail of the trans with the extensions. You need to be turning the socket wrench by the rear of the trans. If you want to get to the 10 o clock bolt looking from the rear then go in from the pass side of the trans. You want to go crossways to get to the bolts bc the floorpan is in the way. You can't get them straight on.
Last edited by 01ssreda4; 12-03-2009 at 01:41 PM.
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Put a small sciccor jack between the trans tail and the tunnel. Lightly crank it to make the trans come down in the back. Get 3 to 4 feet of extensions and one swivel joint attached directly behind the socket. Go in near the tail of the trans with the extensions. You need to be turning the socket wrench by the rear of the trans. If you want to get to the 10 o clock bolt looking from the rear then go in from the pass side of the trans. You want to go crossways to get to the bolts bc the floorpan is in the way. You can't get them straight on.
I dropped the tranny off its mount and supported it with a scissor jack and let it hang down a bit to get to the top bolts when I was replacing my clutch.
That being said I didnt have much of a good time with it easier and if I ever pull the tranny or engine again I'll pull them both as a unit rather than futzing with the bellhousing/tranny bolts again.
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that is a good idea to lower the back end of the transmission to make the top bolts easier. but think you guys may have me convinced to pull the trans out with it. last motor swap I done we pulled them both out. my only other aggravation is the whole exhaust on this car is welded, figured I could just loosen the headers off and pull the engine up with the headers to the side, but looks like I have to get those spark plugs out for that to happen. they're kooks 1 & 7/8 primaries. isn't it always one thing after the next lol.
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that is a good idea to lower the back end of the transmission to make the top bolts easier. but think you guys may have me convinced to pull the trans out with it. last motor swap I done we pulled them both out. my only other aggravation is the whole exhaust on this car is welded, figured I could just loosen the headers off and pull the engine up with the headers to the side, but looks like I have to get those spark plugs out for that to happen. they're kooks 1 & 7/8 primaries. isn't it always one thing after the next lol.
you could always hang it from the hoist in the engine comp and slide it an inch or two to one side to get the plugs.
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Take your time, dont rush anything. Get all of the accessories off of the engine..It also helps ALOT if you remove the heads, it is almost impossible not to be able to get to the bellhousing bolts (which should be 7)..Make sure not to forget the 3 torque converter bolts too or you will end up breaking your input shaft. I just pulled my auto engine/trans out from the top, easy as cake after I got the heads off.
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To the OP: BTW, I checked out the labour time on re&re engine. It pays 10.2 hours without tranferring accesories.
You might have a tough time finding a guy to give you a break. Mechanics don't like taking on 1/2 started jobs.
I would take the advice given earlier. The job seems to come together nicer of you take a day to think about it.
You might have a tough time finding a guy to give you a break. Mechanics don't like taking on 1/2 started jobs.
I would take the advice given earlier. The job seems to come together nicer of you take a day to think about it.