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pulled the trans today

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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 09:51 PM
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Talking pulled the trans today

I needed to replace the slave cylinder and I was putting it off for a few weeks, then I just said **** it ill try it.....it was definately not as hard as I thought, it was pretty easy , I actually thought it was easier to pull than the T-5 on my old cobra.......now I just wish I had the extra cash to throw a sweet clutch in it
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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any pics?
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28_LT1
any pics?
unfortunately no, my camera is broke and its gonna be a while before I can afford another one lol
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 12:34 PM
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Yeah taking it out isn't bad. It's a lot more of a pain lining everything back up and putting it together imo
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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Put a Remote Bleeder on it before you stick it back in..

Originally Posted by Z28_LT1
any pics?
What are you wanting pics of?
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 03:33 PM
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yea, getting it back in is the hardest part, especially if it's on the ground. not to hijack the thread but does anybody have any ideas of how to torque the bolts on the very top inbetween the trans and the tunnel? i could barely fit a regular 3/8's ratchet and a swivel up there to tighten them down.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dutinsss
yea, getting it back in is the hardest part, especially if it's on the ground. not to hijack the thread but does anybody have any ideas of how to torque the bolts on the very top inbetween the trans and the tunnel? i could barely fit a regular 3/8's ratchet and a swivel up there to tighten them down.
I always got those as tight as I could while tourqing the rest never had an issue.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Put the Bell Housing on first..you will have alot better clearance on them..then put the Tranny on.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
Put the Bell Housing on first..you will have alot better clearance on them..then put the Tranny on.
Exactly what I was gonna say.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Put a Remote Bleeder on it before you stick it back in..QUOTE]

I've never heard of one of those, where can I get one?
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dutinsss
yea, getting it back in is the hardest part, especially if it's on the ground. not to hijack the thread but does anybody have any ideas of how to torque the bolts on the very top inbetween the trans and the tunnel? i could barely fit a regular 3/8's ratchet and a swivel up there to tighten them down.
Guy 1 is under the car lining up the socket. Guy 2 is in the car with the wrench through the hole for the shifter. Use about 30" of extensions to reach and torque it down!
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 01:06 AM
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^^That procedure sounds like a monkey ****** a football there..

Originally Posted by mylittlez06
I've never heard of one of those, where can I get one?
I bought mine from LPP..Tick Performance sells them too.

It's an extention off of the Slave where that Bleeder Screw goes..instead of having to mess with the Bleeder Screw and taking forever to bleed, you can get one of these Remote Bleeders and it takes about a minute to bleed the entire system.

This is what mine looks like..the big Cable lookin thing coming out of the side of where the Slave is..

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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
^^That procedure sounds like a monkey ****** a football there..
it was the best way we found to re-torque the top 2 bolts on my T5. IIRC the bellhousing, gear case, and output are all one piece; so I couldn't bolt the bellhousing up first.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Lotus289
it was the best way we found to re-torque the top 2 bolts on my T5. IIRC the bellhousing, gear case, and output are all one piece; so I couldn't bolt the bellhousing up first.
yea that's what i did last time but it was still a PITA. i'm about to pull it again and i'll try bolting up the bell housing and the trans seperately. don't know what i didn't think of that first.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 11:52 PM
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Just take your time when you are stabbing it in, and do it correctly.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
^^That procedure sounds like a monkey ****** a football there..



I bought mine from LPP..Tick Performance sells them too.

It's an extention off of the Slave where that Bleeder Screw goes..instead of having to mess with the Bleeder Screw and taking forever to bleed, you can get one of these Remote Bleeders and it takes about a minute to bleed the entire system.

This is what mine looks like..the big Cable lookin thing coming out of the side of where the Slave is..

bad *** man, thanks!!
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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anyone know the torque specs for the bolts for the bellhousing to the block?
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 10:33 PM
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as tight as you want em
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Slo TA
as tight as you want em
ok, I just didnt know if your suppose to torque them or not
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mylittlez06
anyone know the torque specs for the bolts for the bellhousing to the block?
37 FT/LB. Most of those components are aluminum, no need to go ape on them.

Here is a list of some torque specs you may need. Just scroll down to the transmission section. They refer to the bell housing as the clutch housing.

As far as the guys putting the trans back in when the car is on the floor, its really not that hard. I learned this method from a fellow member. I did my clutch swap alone. The only help I had was to line up the new master cylinder and bleed the new hydraulic system.

Ok now if your reinstalling the trans with no help your going to want to lay on your back with the trans to your side. Make sure you have the trans bolts within arms reach and a socket and your jack stand. Then just pull the trans up on you so the input shaft is towards your knees. Now just lift the front with your knees and the tail shaft with your hands and arms. Then just watch the sides and wiggle the tail shaft until you see everything is tight. then insert a few bolts to hold the front and place the jack stand under the rear of the trans.
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