Best subframe connectors?
#61
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If you get a chance could you post a picture of the "reverse pyramid" is the largest diameter washer next to the head of the bolt, or the SFC? Also I'm assuming this is with the bar nut that comes with the SFC's.
I just bought a pair of used SLP 3pt bolt in's but they didn't come with any hardware, and I don't want to pay $60+shipping for SLP's hardware kit if it isn't necessary. I am going to call UMI and see if their "bolt pattern" is the same, but if you have any other suggestions that would be great!
I just bought a pair of used SLP 3pt bolt in's but they didn't come with any hardware, and I don't want to pay $60+shipping for SLP's hardware kit if it isn't necessary. I am going to call UMI and see if their "bolt pattern" is the same, but if you have any other suggestions that would be great!
Picture attached below:
Last edited by RPM WS6; 01-30-2013 at 08:38 PM.
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Ok, here is a picture I just took of the forward mounting pad of the SLP SFCs with the triple washer stack. I used a brush and some undercoating to cover the bolts and washers many years ago, so they would blend in better with the SFCs:
#63
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Yes, I did this with the SLP bolt-ins. I can try to get a picture of this later, but there isn't much to look at. The smallest washers go towards the bolt head, with the largest towards the SFC mounting plates (makes a reverse pyramid in relation to the ground). I think I used three washers for each pyramid stack (SLP kit only comes with one weak washer for each bolt, and if you try to really torque down hard on this, the washer will distort and partially collapse into the mounting hole - the stack of three progressively larger washers allows a great deal more torque). I got everything necessary at the local hardware store, although I did use the mounting bars that came with the SFCs from SLP. I suppose you could make your own mounts with some thick, cut steel bar that's been drilled and threaded.
One more question for you so I don't have to start another thread. I have read on here that when installing SFC's that you want the suspension loaded, but in the SLP instructions it doesn't mention anything about that. Any recommendations on how to install them with just jackstands?
Sorry for the thread jack, hopefully this helps out some others too.
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Thank you very much!
One more question for you so I don't have to start another thread. I have read on here that when installing SFC's that you want the suspension loaded, but in the SLP instructions it doesn't mention anything about that. Any recommendations on how to install them with just jackstands?
Sorry for the thread jack, hopefully this helps out some others too.
One more question for you so I don't have to start another thread. I have read on here that when installing SFC's that you want the suspension loaded, but in the SLP instructions it doesn't mention anything about that. Any recommendations on how to install them with just jackstands?
Sorry for the thread jack, hopefully this helps out some others too.
I have installed these on a few different cars. I have sometimes used ramps, or a jack to lift the car for positioning/initial hand-tight mounting of the SFCs. But for actual torquing of the bolts I have always made sure that the suspension was fully loaded with no portion of the body on jacks. Not sure how important that is, but I always felt it was a good idea for everything to be loaded for final torquing as it would be during normal operation.
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Glad to help.
I have installed these on a few different cars. I have sometimes used ramps, or a jack to lift the car for positioning/initial hand-tight mounting of the SFCs. But for actual torquing of the bolts I have always made sure that the suspension was fully loaded with no portion of the body on jacks. Not sure how important that is, but I always felt it was a good idea for everything to be loaded for final torquing as it would be during normal operation.
I have installed these on a few different cars. I have sometimes used ramps, or a jack to lift the car for positioning/initial hand-tight mounting of the SFCs. But for actual torquing of the bolts I have always made sure that the suspension was fully loaded with no portion of the body on jacks. Not sure how important that is, but I always felt it was a good idea for everything to be loaded for final torquing as it would be during normal operation.
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The car won't know if it's on the street or on a ramp lift. Shouldn't be any difference IMO.
#67
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I called up UMI when i was looking for the right fit. he said
-chromoly is a waste of cash if its a weekend warrior only do that for full drag car
-2pt vs 3 pt is only BARELY noticeable on a road coarse, for drags they are equal (think abt it a 2pt connects the subframes which therefor box the ends -giving about the same side to side strength)
-weld in is no maintance, quieter and generally whats the chances that you will take off the sfc when u sell the car ? parting them out is a null point
-tubular v boxed boxed are heavier and unless thicker guage like is available a =thickness tubular will be stronger
-black v red is personal i went black figuring scratches will be easier to respray paint
I went 2pt tubular J&M weld in. they were just 100$ and the best deal with high quality ends.
bonus tip the sfc extend the jacking point area so a jack and stand can fit easier
-chromoly is a waste of cash if its a weekend warrior only do that for full drag car
-2pt vs 3 pt is only BARELY noticeable on a road coarse, for drags they are equal (think abt it a 2pt connects the subframes which therefor box the ends -giving about the same side to side strength)
-weld in is no maintance, quieter and generally whats the chances that you will take off the sfc when u sell the car ? parting them out is a null point
-tubular v boxed boxed are heavier and unless thicker guage like is available a =thickness tubular will be stronger
-black v red is personal i went black figuring scratches will be easier to respray paint
I went 2pt tubular J&M weld in. they were just 100$ and the best deal with high quality ends.
bonus tip the sfc extend the jacking point area so a jack and stand can fit easier
#68
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At first i bolted mine in, was alot stiffer and i loved the difference. i then got paranoid and decided to weld them in. after it felt like i put on another set of sub frame connectors. made it much stiffer. the only down fall to doing it is now there are a ton more squeaks and rattles. every imperfection in the road feels much worse than it is. but it took away all my thoughts about the car "twisting"
So I put bolt-ins on my M6 car. Did not notice any difference at all.