Royal Purple ... Why do many dislike it?
05-04-2011, 04:08 PM
#41
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I started using RP hearing about all this hype, so i changed engine oil trans fluid and diff fluid and we actually tested it on a dyno car picked up a little but hears the thing im driving home from school my check oil light comes on as it comes on my oil pressure starts dipping below 15psi and no higher than 50psi so i get home mind you i was 2000 miles into the oil change, i get home and pull the dip stick to find NO OIL on the dipstick so i got some more oil and it didnt even show on the dipstick till i dumped over 2 quarts in the motor. my car never burnt oil but was somehow 2 and a half quarts low needless to say the car spun a rod bearing from oil starvation (thats why the oil pressure was fluctuating) so i end up rebuilding the motor to a 383 right after i got the car back from the shop the trans took a **** sycros ate them selves up so i had to have the trans rebuilt then right after i had the tranny fixed two carrier bolts backed out and ran into the housing causing them to break off in the rearend thats why i put the 12bolt in.....
so literally after 6000miles with royal purple i had completely rebuilt the whole drivetrain in the car. on the first oil change the **** took out the engine, tranny fluid was supposed to be good for way more than 6k miles but wasnt and killed my sycros, and i honestly dont know if it had anything to do with the rear end coming apart but 3 for 3 on basically failing in everything i put it in made me switch. Also after talking to the shop that built my car they basically said you shouldn't run it in a dd street car for more than 1k miles before you should change it and in a race car you should change the fluid like every 20 passes if you wanna be safe. the fact is it does free up a very small amount of power by basically being a little thinner, but ill sacrifice that 2.5hp difference for the added protection of mobile 1 or castrol gtx
Royal Purple
that's for you 
so literally after 6000miles with royal purple i had completely rebuilt the whole drivetrain in the car. on the first oil change the **** took out the engine, tranny fluid was supposed to be good for way more than 6k miles but wasnt and killed my sycros, and i honestly dont know if it had anything to do with the rear end coming apart but 3 for 3 on basically failing in everything i put it in made me switch. Also after talking to the shop that built my car they basically said you shouldn't run it in a dd street car for more than 1k miles before you should change it and in a race car you should change the fluid like every 20 passes if you wanna be safe. the fact is it does free up a very small amount of power by basically being a little thinner, but ill sacrifice that 2.5hp difference for the added protection of mobile 1 or castrol gtx
Royal Purple
that's for you Last edited by strokerblackhawk; 05-04-2011 at 04:18 PM.
05-04-2011, 04:51 PM
#43
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*API Certified - American Petroleum Institute* not "ASE"
Iron is not in the formulation of any engine lubricant. Iron is found in an engine lubricant after it's been used in an engine, and is a sign of engine wear. I can guarantee you that Royal Purple will have better results (lower iron ppm) in an used oil analysis than and average Mobil 1 product, especially since Mobil 1 is API SM/SN certified. We will get more in depth about the difference in API certification later.
There is a GOOD reason that it isn't API certified, and you would never catch me using an API SM or SN certified lubricant in my GT500. NEVER!
Royal Purple was API SL certified, but not API SM or SN. The newest certifications do not allow for a high level of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorous). This is the primary anti-wear additive that minimizes engine wear under heavy pressure and extreme use. The new certification only allow for a 900 ppm maximum of phosphorous. Older API SL formulations allowed for a much higher concentration. You will not ever see me pouring an engine lubricant into any of my cars unless it has at least 1100-1300 ppm ZDDP levels.
Now, what are some other reasons why a top tier lubricant wouldn't be API certified. Some companies refuse to lower the ZDDP concentration to meet the newer standards.
Translation: They refuse to make their product "sub par" than the best formulation possible to protect your engine. Click the link below to learn more about why Amsoil isn't API certified. Base stock swapping is very unfair for true synthetic base stocks.
Amsoil - API Certifications
I would also like to add that Amsoil does have two engine lubricant lines that are API certified. Amsoil OE and XL lines. They carry all current API SN, ILSAC GF-5, and Dexos 1 certifications.
Isn't surprising since a group IV true synthetic base stock has no impurities and creates less restriction to flow than inferior/cheaper base stocks. High oil pressure isn't always a good thing. In reality, living by the 10psi per 1000 rpm rule is fine. If you had 15 psi @ isle and 70 psi @ 6,500 rpm, you are fine. Pressure is the resistance to flow. A fluid that has lower frictional properties will flow easier, and exhibit lower pressure (resistance).
Reset your change interval light goober! It had nothing to do with the condition of the oil.
Royal Purple was not lying in their claims for their product, they just weren't telling you that every true synthetic would have yielded the same results. Amsoil, Red Line, and a few others would have freed up internal friction the same way.
That depends on which formulation you choose, and if you are a preferred customer or not. PC's buy Amsoil at dealer cost, and it's only $20.00 a year to be one.
See my response above about Royal Purple's marketing style. It's not myth, they just try to make it sound "exclusive" to RP.
There is no comparison between a group II dino lubricant and a group IV or V true synthetic.
There is one major difference in choosing a formulation that is closer in viscosity spread.
NOACK Volatility. Read post #30 and #31 @ Team Shelby. I've made a very informative post about it there. Direct link below
Team Shelby - Why 10W-30 instead of 0W or 5W <----- everyone should read this. A LOT of good information about true synthetics
You are a smart man! Preferred Customers actually buy Amsoil at dealer cost, so that means they can buy it cheaper than Royal Purple. Better lubricants for cheaper, now that's an awesome concept.
Amsoil Preferred Customer
How dirty the oil appears to look has nothing to do with the condition of the oil. In fact, it means it's cleaning the gunk out of your engine. Dark colored oil isn't an indication to change it.
The used oil analysis that have been done by myself and others on the GT500 5.4L and Terminator 4.6L modular engines have shown that Mobil 1 is inferior in performance to Amsoil, every time. We don't rely on marketing hype. We rely on data, oil testing, and hard facts.
Yet another smart man!
Again, it's "API" not "ASE".
API certifications don't mean diddly squat! Just because a product isn't API certified doesn't mean it can't pass the "minimum" standards of the API. In fact, their current standards are a joke. The standards are so low...dollar store crap oil can pass it. If you want to settle for "minimum" standards....keep looking for that API logo on the back of your oil bottles.
Royal Purple was API SL certified, but not API SM or SN. The newest certifications do not allow for a high level of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorous). This is the primary anti-wear additive that minimizes engine wear under heavy pressure and extreme use. The new certification only allow for a 900 ppm maximum of phosphorous. Older API SL formulations allowed for a much higher concentration. You will not ever see me pouring an engine lubricant into any of my cars unless it has at least 1100-1300 ppm ZDDP levels.
Now, what are some other reasons why a top tier lubricant wouldn't be API certified. Some companies refuse to lower the ZDDP concentration to meet the newer standards.
Translation: They refuse to make their product "sub par" than the best formulation possible to protect your engine. Click the link below to learn more about why Amsoil isn't API certified. Base stock swapping is very unfair for true synthetic base stocks.
Amsoil - API Certifications
I would also like to add that Amsoil does have two engine lubricant lines that are API certified. Amsoil OE and XL lines. They carry all current API SN, ILSAC GF-5, and Dexos 1 certifications.
That depends on which formulation you choose, and if you are a preferred customer or not. PC's buy Amsoil at dealer cost, and it's only $20.00 a year to be one.
There is no comparison between a group II dino lubricant and a group IV or V true synthetic.
NOACK Volatility. Read post #30 and #31 @ Team Shelby. I've made a very informative post about it there. Direct link below
Team Shelby - Why 10W-30 instead of 0W or 5W <----- everyone should read this. A LOT of good information about true synthetics
From my experience it isn't that it's a bad oil, it's that its changed over the years to a normal everyday synthetic oil.. With the price of amsoil. Amsoil actually IS one of the best if not THE best oil out there, not to mention they aren't much more money then RP, so why go with RP? I used to use RP a couple years ago, been on amsoil for the past 3 years, run 10w30 race oil in the trans am and normal 10w40 ams oil in my acura for DD.
Amsoil Preferred Customer
API certifications don't mean diddly squat! Just because a product isn't API certified doesn't mean it can't pass the "minimum" standards of the API. In fact, their current standards are a joke. The standards are so low...dollar store crap oil can pass it. If you want to settle for "minimum" standards....keep looking for that API logo on the back of your oil bottles.
Last edited by UnleashedBeast; 05-04-2011 at 05:18 PM.
05-04-2011, 05:01 PM
#44
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I started using RP hearing about all this hype, so i changed engine oil trans fluid and diff fluid and we actually tested it on a dyno car picked up a little but hears the thing im driving home from school my check oil light comes on as it comes on my oil pressure starts dipping below 15psi and no higher than 50psi so i get home mind you i was 2000 miles into the oil change, i get home and pull the dip stick to find NO OIL on the dipstick so i got some more oil and it didnt even show on the dipstick till i dumped over 2 quarts in the motor. my car never burnt oil but was somehow 2 and a half quarts low needless to say the car spun a rod bearing from oil starvation (thats why the oil pressure was fluctuating) so i end up rebuilding the motor to a 383
I will tell you this. Red Line D4 and Amsoil Synthetic ATF are both much better choices for the T-56. I'm not a fan of Synchromax in the Tremec. I also had synchro failure with it.
05-04-2011, 06:55 PM
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I run an EAO64 filter and Castrol 0-30w(GC) in my LS1. I let it go out to about 8,500 miles and then change it. Solid motor still with 188,000 miles on it. The only other oil and filter the car ever had was Mobil 1 when it was very new (under 11,000 miles). I am around 42 psi in 70+ degree weather just sitting in traffic and over 60psi on start up so it is working well in my motor. Amsoil makes a very good product which is why I use their filters. Is Amsoil better than GC or vice versa? This debate will rage on as long as these two companies compete, but I would not hesitate to use Amsoil if I was unable to locate GC at a fair market price.
05-04-2011, 09:16 PM
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Good choice on the Ea064 filter. I will not use any other oil filter on any of my cars (Ea011).
Last edited by UnleashedBeast; 05-04-2011 at 09:23 PM.
05-04-2011, 09:47 PM
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*API Certified - American Petroleum Institute* not "ASE"
Iron is not in the formulation of any engine lubricant. Iron is found in an engine lubricant after it's been used in an engine, and is a sign of engine wear. I can guarantee you that Royal Purple will have better results (lower iron ppm) in an used oil analysis than and average Mobil 1 product, especially since Mobil 1 is API SM/SN certified. We will get more in depth about the difference in API certification later.
There is a GOOD reason that it isn't API certified, and you would never catch me using an API SM or SN certified lubricant in my GT500. NEVER!
Royal Purple was API SL certified, but not API SM or SN. The newest certifications do not allow for a high level of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorous). This is the primary anti-wear additive that minimizes engine wear under heavy pressure and extreme use. The new certification only allow for a 900 ppm maximum of phosphorous. Older API SL formulations allowed for a much higher concentration. You will not ever see me pouring an engine lubricant into any of my cars unless it has at least 1100-1300 ppm ZDDP levels.
Now, what are some other reasons why a top tier lubricant wouldn't be API certified. Some companies refuse to lower the ZDDP concentration to meet the newer standards.
Translation: They refuse to make their product "sub par" than the best formulation possible to protect your engine. Click the link below to learn more about why Amsoil isn't API certified. Base stock swapping is very unfair for true synthetic base stocks.
Amsoil - API Certifications
I would also like to add that Amsoil does have two engine lubricant lines that are API certified. Amsoil OE and XL lines. They carry all current API SN, ILSAC GF-5, and Dexos 1 certifications.
Isn't surprising since a group IV true synthetic base stock has no impurities and creates less restriction to flow than inferior/cheaper base stocks. High oil pressure isn't always a good thing. In reality, living by the 10psi per 1000 rpm rule is fine. If you had 15 psi @ isle and 70 psi @ 6,500 rpm, you are fine. Pressure is the resistance to flow. A fluid that has lower frictional properties will flow easier, and exhibit lower pressure (resistance).
Reset your change interval light goober! It had nothing to do with the condition of the oil.
Royal Purple was not lying in their claims for their product, they just weren't telling you that every true synthetic would have yielded the same results. Amsoil, Red Line, and a few others would have freed up internal friction the same way.
That depends on which formulation you choose, and if you are a preferred customer or not. PC's buy Amsoil at dealer cost, and it's only $20.00 a year to be one.
See my response above about Royal Purple's marketing style. It's not myth, they just try to make it sound "exclusive" to RP.
There is no comparison between a group II dino lubricant and a group IV or V true synthetic.
There is one major difference in choosing a formulation that is closer in viscosity spread.
NOACK Volatility. Read post #30 and #31 @ Team Shelby. I've made a very informative post about it there. Direct link below
Team Shelby - Why 10W-30 instead of 0W or 5W <----- everyone should read this. A LOT of good information about true synthetics
You are a smart man! Preferred Customers actually buy Amsoil at dealer cost, so that means they can buy it cheaper than Royal Purple. Better lubricants for cheaper, now that's an awesome concept.
Amsoil Preferred Customer
How dirty the oil appears to look has nothing to do with the condition of the oil. In fact, it means it's cleaning the gunk out of your engine. Dark colored oil isn't an indication to change it.
The used oil analysis that have been done by myself and others on the GT500 5.4L and Terminator 4.6L modular engines have shown that Mobil 1 is inferior in performance to Amsoil, every time. We don't rely on marketing hype. We rely on data, oil testing, and hard facts.
Yet another smart man!
Again, it's "API" not "ASE".
API certifications don't mean diddly squat! Just because a product isn't API certified doesn't mean it can't pass the "minimum" standards of the API. In fact, their current standards are a joke. The standards are so low...dollar store crap oil can pass it. If you want to settle for "minimum" standards....keep looking for that API logo on the back of your oil bottles.
Iron is not in the formulation of any engine lubricant. Iron is found in an engine lubricant after it's been used in an engine, and is a sign of engine wear. I can guarantee you that Royal Purple will have better results (lower iron ppm) in an used oil analysis than and average Mobil 1 product, especially since Mobil 1 is API SM/SN certified. We will get more in depth about the difference in API certification later.
There is a GOOD reason that it isn't API certified, and you would never catch me using an API SM or SN certified lubricant in my GT500. NEVER!
Royal Purple was API SL certified, but not API SM or SN. The newest certifications do not allow for a high level of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorous). This is the primary anti-wear additive that minimizes engine wear under heavy pressure and extreme use. The new certification only allow for a 900 ppm maximum of phosphorous. Older API SL formulations allowed for a much higher concentration. You will not ever see me pouring an engine lubricant into any of my cars unless it has at least 1100-1300 ppm ZDDP levels.
Now, what are some other reasons why a top tier lubricant wouldn't be API certified. Some companies refuse to lower the ZDDP concentration to meet the newer standards.
Translation: They refuse to make their product "sub par" than the best formulation possible to protect your engine. Click the link below to learn more about why Amsoil isn't API certified. Base stock swapping is very unfair for true synthetic base stocks.
Amsoil - API Certifications
I would also like to add that Amsoil does have two engine lubricant lines that are API certified. Amsoil OE and XL lines. They carry all current API SN, ILSAC GF-5, and Dexos 1 certifications.
Isn't surprising since a group IV true synthetic base stock has no impurities and creates less restriction to flow than inferior/cheaper base stocks. High oil pressure isn't always a good thing. In reality, living by the 10psi per 1000 rpm rule is fine. If you had 15 psi @ isle and 70 psi @ 6,500 rpm, you are fine. Pressure is the resistance to flow. A fluid that has lower frictional properties will flow easier, and exhibit lower pressure (resistance).
Reset your change interval light goober! It had nothing to do with the condition of the oil.
Royal Purple was not lying in their claims for their product, they just weren't telling you that every true synthetic would have yielded the same results. Amsoil, Red Line, and a few others would have freed up internal friction the same way.
That depends on which formulation you choose, and if you are a preferred customer or not. PC's buy Amsoil at dealer cost, and it's only $20.00 a year to be one.
See my response above about Royal Purple's marketing style. It's not myth, they just try to make it sound "exclusive" to RP.
There is no comparison between a group II dino lubricant and a group IV or V true synthetic.
There is one major difference in choosing a formulation that is closer in viscosity spread.
NOACK Volatility. Read post #30 and #31 @ Team Shelby. I've made a very informative post about it there. Direct link below
Team Shelby - Why 10W-30 instead of 0W or 5W <----- everyone should read this. A LOT of good information about true synthetics
You are a smart man! Preferred Customers actually buy Amsoil at dealer cost, so that means they can buy it cheaper than Royal Purple. Better lubricants for cheaper, now that's an awesome concept.
Amsoil Preferred Customer
How dirty the oil appears to look has nothing to do with the condition of the oil. In fact, it means it's cleaning the gunk out of your engine. Dark colored oil isn't an indication to change it.
The used oil analysis that have been done by myself and others on the GT500 5.4L and Terminator 4.6L modular engines have shown that Mobil 1 is inferior in performance to Amsoil, every time. We don't rely on marketing hype. We rely on data, oil testing, and hard facts.
Yet another smart man!
Again, it's "API" not "ASE".
API certifications don't mean diddly squat! Just because a product isn't API certified doesn't mean it can't pass the "minimum" standards of the API. In fact, their current standards are a joke. The standards are so low...dollar store crap oil can pass it. If you want to settle for "minimum" standards....keep looking for that API logo on the back of your oil bottles.
05-04-2011, 10:03 PM
#54
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BUT!
Royal Purple's formulations are no more "slippery" than Amsoil, Red Line, etc....
I don't get "butt hurt" as your call it, but I do know about lubrication technology. A lot more than any other post I've read in this thread so far. Unless you have something productive you would care to add to this discussion.
Prove me wrong. Challenge!
05-04-2011, 10:12 PM
#55
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and you need to pay better attention to my posts. I said that Royal Purple's claims of their product are not far fetched. What they did not tell you is, all the top tier true synthetic lubricants on the market would yield the same results. Is it possible for an engine to be more efficient and produce more power from using a lubricant that yields less friction in an internal combustion engine...of course.
BUT!
Royal Purple's formulations are no more "slippery" than Amsoil, Red Line, etc....
I don't get "butt hurt" as your call it, but I do know about lubrication technology. A lot more than any other post I've read in this thread so far. Unless you have something productive you would care to add to this discussion.
Prove me wrong. Challenge!
BUT!
Royal Purple's formulations are no more "slippery" than Amsoil, Red Line, etc....
I don't get "butt hurt" as your call it, but I do know about lubrication technology. A lot more than any other post I've read in this thread so far. Unless you have something productive you would care to add to this discussion.
Prove me wrong. Challenge!
05-04-2011, 10:17 PM
#56
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Look, I understand that you were included in my "quotes", but it was nothing personal. Don't take offense to it. Let's all learn something about what we are pouring into our engines, and make a good day from it.
05-05-2011, 12:29 AM
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@ UnleashedBeast: ... Out of curiosity, any thoughts as to why people are claiming a significant and noticeable increase in valvetrain noise? ... A few years ago I used RP and noticed that immediately also. I didn't realize until I posted this thread that others noticed or had the same symptom as well. .. The sound kinda freaked me out. That's why I switched back to Mobile 1.
05-05-2011, 01:28 AM
#58
I use German Castrol 0W-30 and a K&N hp2006 filter. I changed the factory oil out at about 800 miles. I then changed it to Castrol and I change it every 5000 miles.
I don't use any oil between changes and I just did my 155,000 mile oil change last week.
I had to add a quart one time. I drove from Ohio to California and was doing 80-90 mph all day long in 109 degree temps in the dessert so I kinda forgave it for that.
I don't use any oil between changes and I just did my 155,000 mile oil change last week.
I had to add a quart one time. I drove from Ohio to California and was doing 80-90 mph all day long in 109 degree temps in the dessert so I kinda forgave it for that.
05-05-2011, 01:53 AM
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05-05-2011, 08:44 AM
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@ UnleashedBeast: ... Out of curiosity, any thoughts as to why people are claiming a significant and noticeable increase in valvetrain noise? ... A few years ago I used RP and noticed that immediately also. I didn't realize until I posted this thread that others noticed or had the same symptom as well. .. The sound kinda freaked me out. That's why I switched back to Mobile 1.
I was honestly shocked it went silent for the first 3-4k miles after the change to German Syntec, but now I will always try to use it just so I don't have to listen to lifter tick in the mornings.