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Engine/drivetrain slightly crooked after reinstall - a few questions

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Old 12-31-2011, 11:43 AM
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Default Engine/drivetrain slightly crooked after reinstall - a few questions

I removed/reinstalled my engine using the "out the bottom method" that most people here probably use. I'm doing a turbo build and a T56 -> 4L80e swap as well, which required use of an aftermarket K member and transmission crossmember.

I reused my stock A-arms and attempted to "eyeball" them straight/centered as best as possible, and centered/shimmed the engine mount clamshells on the K member as best I could.

When I reinstalled the engine/transmission/front suspension, I felt that I got everything lined up well because the "guide dowels" on the K member met up with the holes on the body and it didn't appear there was a lot of room for movement/error there.

However, when I went to bolt the transmission crossmember and bushing to the transmission, I realized that the transmission wasn't centered properly in the transmission tunnel and there was no way I would be able to bolt the transmission to the bushing.

This was my first time ever removing/reinstalling a drivetrain in a car, but I figured that if the K member guide dowels were lined up and fit, and all the bolts running through the K member that hold it to the car lined up, it *should* be straight in the car. Obviously that's not the case - there must be some "play" and room for adjustment (or in my case, error) that needs to be accounted for.

So my question now is this - how do I get everything lined up and make sure it's straight in the car?

I figured I might be able to pull real hard on the transmission tailshaft and get it on the crossmember, let the engine/tranmission rest back on the dolly I used, unbolt the 6 K member bolts half an inch or so, then lift the car up a bit and use the dolly to reposition the drivetrain? My thoughts were if I could somehow get the transmission tailshaft on the crossmember, it would help center it when the drivetrain because loose from the car again?

Another question I have is regarding my front wheels being severely out of toe. I did install new Bilstein shocks and Strano lowering springs prior to putting the drivetrain back in, so I knew there would be minor adjustment needed to account for that - but IMO this looks too out of tow for a simple tierod adjustment. The only thing I could think of that may cause that, aside from lowering springs, is my A-arms not being "straight" on the K member - or at least not being positioned "where they need to be"....wherever that is.

I know lots of you have done engine swaps here, so I can't be the first to have these problems. hopefully.

Oh yeah, we put a 2 foot ruler running across the throttle body as a straight edge, measured to the radiator support, and there was a 1 CM difference from one end of the ruler to the other. That 1 CM difference translated to a good bit of offset back on the transmission tailshaft.

Old 12-31-2011, 01:38 PM
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same thing happened to me too not THIIS bad but my driveshaft looop did knock a weight off my driveshaft
Old 12-31-2011, 02:12 PM
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Yeah, it appears the K member only has to be off a little bit to make the transmission tailshaft off a lot.
Old 12-31-2011, 02:22 PM
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weird thing withmine though is i pulled my engine from the top and reinstalled the same way,and it wound up like that.
Old 12-31-2011, 03:32 PM
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So you never even removed your K member? Yeah, that is weird then. What did you have to do to fix it?
Old 12-31-2011, 03:37 PM
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just kinda pryedandshoved it back to where i needed it..if i remember correcly,the trans crossmember holes are enlarged so you can move it around some
Old 01-01-2012, 07:21 AM
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Did you remove the motor mounts? Reinstalling them the wrong way will shift the drivetrain.
Old 01-01-2012, 09:57 AM
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yes i did, but i have spohn solids
Old 01-01-2012, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jdiddyws6
Did you remove the motor mounts? Reinstalling them the wrong way will shift the drivetrain.
Yes, I did remove them..... I dont think I got them switched, but its possible. Is there an easy way to tell by looking at them?
Old 01-02-2012, 06:42 PM
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.Bump.
Old 01-02-2012, 08:07 PM
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Loosen the two big Motor Mount Bolts, move the Trans into where it needs to go, and re-tighten Motor Mount Bolts.

Since you have the 4L80E did you clearance the Tunnel for it? Make sure it's not hitting anywhere.
Old 01-03-2012, 07:22 AM
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Yeah, I checked the tunnel and it has plenty of room. How would I tell if the motor mounts are reversed?
Old 01-03-2012, 09:44 AM
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The little notches on them should be on the top side of the pedistal.
Old 01-03-2012, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
Loosen the two big Motor Mount Bolts, move the Trans into where it needs to go, and re-tighten Motor Mount Bolts.

Since you have the 4L80E did you clearance the Tunnel for it? Make sure it's not hitting anywhere.
NOT TRYING IN NO WAY TO THREAD HI-JACK.....but,do you think this could be the same situation with the spohn solid mounts? maybe just loosen em up and adjust as necessary and tighten?
Old 01-03-2012, 06:54 PM
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Yup..
Old 01-04-2012, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
The little notches on them should be on the top side of the pedistal.
Hmm....that does sound vaguely familiar now...I remember the little notches and the tab on the motor mount. I'll have to get under the car and verify.
Old 01-24-2012, 10:54 PM
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Well the motor mounts are on correctly...any other suggestions?

One thing i noticed is that it seems like the engine/drivetrain sit just a little too far forward. When i look how the transmission bushing is positioned on the trans crossmember, it looks like it needs to go forward about a quarter an inch further to get the bolt through, and thats taking into account the 'wiggle room' the oval eyelet on the crossmember gives you.

Also, when i put the k member on the engine while it was on the engine stand, i noticed there was about a quarter inch gap between the clamshell mount on the engine and either side of the 'wishbone' on the k member where single bolt slides through, mating the two.

I took it upon myself to shim the gap with washers, an equal amount on either side of the clamshell, basically centering the clamshell between the wishbone on each side. Now i am wondering - was that gap left intentionally to allow you some flexibility when buttoning the drivetrain as far as front/back and left/right movement is concerned? I didnt make the connection at the time that the transmission crossmember being mated to the car then the transmission would prevent any front to back movement that i was concerned about from the gap on either side of the clamshell.

I dunno....i am basically throwing darts at the wall in a dark room at this point....thoughts?



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