2001 Camaro Z28, first dyno, factory freak?
05-21-2013, 07:06 AM
#22
And +1 to Lemons. I just ran a 13.1@108 and a few 13.3's@107 in my M6 car, and your car is essentially the same as mine mod-wise. So you should be around the same once you can figure out how to launch it and might even have little trouble getting to the 12's if you throw a converter in it, although Lemons can confirm or deny that. I don't remember how bad your gears are hurting you, but i believe I remember reading Lemons saying a stall is always the best first mod for an A4 car, even before gears.
05-21-2013, 07:21 AM
#23
You would be better off putting your track times in your signature instead of the over-inflated dyno numbers. Just a thought.
And +1 to Lemons. I just ran a 13.1@108 and a few 13.3's@107 in my M6 car, and your car is essentially the same as mine mod-wise. So you should be around the same once you can figure out how to launch it and might even have little trouble getting to the 12's if you throw a converter in it, although Lemons can confirm or deny that. I don't remember how bad your gears are hurting you, but i believe I remember reading Lemons saying a stall is always the best first mod for an A4 car, even before gears.
And +1 to Lemons. I just ran a 13.1@108 and a few 13.3's@107 in my M6 car, and your car is essentially the same as mine mod-wise. So you should be around the same once you can figure out how to launch it and might even have little trouble getting to the 12's if you throw a converter in it, although Lemons can confirm or deny that. I don't remember how bad your gears are hurting you, but i believe I remember reading Lemons saying a stall is always the best first mod for an A4 car, even before gears.
As far as next mods I would be looking at... A converter and a set of nittos would get OP in the 12.6-12.7 range if you go with a quality converter.
In the 1/4 the 273s hurt a little more than normal because you get that "dead spot" when you shift into 3rd. The converter will hide it for the most part but it will still be there. I would look into swapping the rear for a stock 3.42 rear. After the swap you will either have an extra spare rear for if you break the 3.42 rear or you can sell the stock 2.73 rear and have hardly nothing in the gear change.
The gear swap will net minimal gains but you will see a slight gain... More so than anything, it will help tighten the converter up around town so you can go a little larger and it feel like a smaller converter VS the 273s which will make it feel much looser.
And right on Ls1again.. I would do a converter before I even did a lid (wouldn't be the first time)!
05-25-2013, 11:34 AM
#24
There's also a thread on LTXtech.com about a stock LT1 that dynoed 400+ on a MD because they input the wrong information. Once he went back and redynoed, it made like 240.
05-25-2013, 12:41 PM
#25
TECH Fanatic
Those are pretty reasonable numbers. My 2002 Formula dynoed at 326 at the tires with the only mods being an SLP lid and k&n filter at the time. I couldn't tell you what kind of dyno it was.
05-25-2013, 03:20 PM
#26
This is 100% dependent on what info the dyno operator put into his Mustang Dyno. My friend's car put down 407 on a local MD and then put down 363 on a local DJ. Another friend's car put down 388 on a sponsor's MD and then 393 on a local DJ.
There's also a thread on LTXtech.com about a stock LT1 that dynoed 400+ on a MD because they input the wrong information. Once he went back and redynoed, it made like 240.
There's also a thread on LTXtech.com about a stock LT1 that dynoed 400+ on a MD because they input the wrong information. Once he went back and redynoed, it made like 240.
well obviously dynos vary depending on a lot of things.
some shops sell numbers other sell results.
06-06-2013, 04:54 PM
#31
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looks like it's been tuned with 13:1 AFR's...stock should be 11:1, no?
nice numbers either way...put a stall in it & drag radials, and you'll be knockin on the 12 second door
nice numbers either way...put a stall in it & drag radials, and you'll be knockin on the 12 second door
06-23-2013, 08:05 PM
#37
06-30-2013, 09:32 PM
#38
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My car put down 313hp and 330tq with gutted cats and borla catback on a dynojet, my car is an A4 2001 SS with 3.23 gears. Since then I put on an SLP lid and intake, and my best time at the track is 13.25. Your numbers seem high but your times are consistent with stock times so I would say you are right with the rest of the pack.
07-06-2013, 10:01 PM
#39
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Sorry dude you are way in left field. But we all get bad dyno number sometimes. So your telling me your basically spot on with my DD. You can see my mods below. Been away from F bodies since 2004, i see in your signature block you have maybe a ported TB. I know what SLP is... so this LS1 is almost stock with SLP mufflers? Explain this factory freak to me. Sorry i've been stuck in Pontiac world for to long.
07-06-2013, 10:07 PM
#40
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"STD correction. Have them put the run file into SAE and your numbers will drop in line. SAE is the accepted standard. Also having the mph as the X axis shows different numbers then having RPM. That shops WINPEP7 settings are all whacked out. Shops that want to show people higher numbers give printouts in STD". Simple mistake.