5500 RPM, falling on it's face
#21
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If the filter was extremely clogged, then it might have been restricting flow and thus causing a lean condition at WOT/high rpms. The pump may have been damaged somewhat over time, so even with a clean filter it still may not be producing the proper pressure under full load to support fuel needs at high rpm.
Before tearing into the injectors, I'd still recommend checking pressure.
Before tearing into the injectors, I'd still recommend checking pressure.
EDIT...quick question, my 2000 (built 11-1999) Z28, is it a return or returnless style fuel system?
EDIT 2...Will these injectors work with my car? 24LB Injectors on Ebay
Last edited by mad-hatter; 06-18-2015 at 12:59 PM.
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Cheap cost for temporary replacement and testing. Are there any 26lb injectors that anyone could recommend for a good cost? Not looking to spend an arm and a leg on stock size injectors as I will eventually need to upgrade with my H/C/I/E build I plan on doing later this year/start of next year. Something to get me by for a year or so.
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I wouldn't worry about buying "temporary" injectors until you've first verified proper operation of the fuel pump, and then tried to clean the current injectors (you could try in-tank cleaners or more extensive bench cleaning.....all better options then dropping the cash for a smaller set of used/unknown injectors that you won't even be keeping for long.)
#25
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I have the stock LS1 injectors that came out of my '00 Vette at 37,200 miles if you're looking for a very cheap fix if yours are shot. They were in perfect working condition when replaced during my H/C/I/E swap. I bagged and boxed them and they've been sitting on the shelf in my climate controlled garage ever since. I keep stuff like this around to help people out who are in a pinch someday.
But I wouldn't worry about injectors just yet until you further inspect/clean the tank and check fuel pressure under WOT to make sure there are no potential problems before the injectors. And try to clean your current injectors before wasting time and money on injectors you may not need.
But I wouldn't worry about injectors just yet until you further inspect/clean the tank and check fuel pressure under WOT to make sure there are no potential problems before the injectors. And try to clean your current injectors before wasting time and money on injectors you may not need.
Last edited by R6cowboy; 06-18-2015 at 01:36 PM.
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I have the stock LS1 injectors that came out of my '00 Vette at 37,200 miles if you're looking for a very cheap fix if yours are shot. They were in perfect working condition when replaced during my H/C/I/E swap. I bagged and boxed them and they've been sitting on the shelf in my climate controlled garage ever since. I keep stuff like this around to help people out who are in a pinch someday. But I wouldn't worry about injectors just yet until you further inspect the tank and check fuel pressure under WOT to make sure they are no potential problems before the injectors.
As for the fuel pressure test, what am I looking for pressure wise and how should this be carried out? I understand the basics of where to hook up the gauge, etc.
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Nope...buddy was out of the shop and none of the local parts stores have one to use or purchase. He said he'll be there on Saturday, so I'm going to stop by.
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A few years ago, I took my car to the track to log some runs and found that my times were .5 seconds off and the car was going way lean at higher rpms. So I took the car to a dyno shop and had them monitor fuel pressure on a WOT pull. Sure enough, pressure was falling way off as the rpm's climbed, although the car ran perfectly normally in daily driving.
I don't know how important a factor it was, but I wanted the car to be under load while going WOT.
I don't know how important a factor it was, but I wanted the car to be under load while going WOT.