MustangEater825

So I have a 1985 Chevy Camaro Z28. Plans were to do a engine swap nad be in the ballpark of 400 hp.


I initially did not intend to go with a LS1, but I came across a deal on a 2000 complete Ls1 car that was totaled but driveable. The car pulls hard, and has plenty of power. The previous owner was a little unsure of what was done, but the car has a Cam, he says he believes it was a GM hotcam, and when the cam was put in the motor the pistons were re-ringed, and the heads had some minor work done to them. Car also has longtubes, and believed a tune. I didn't care too terribly much as I was more interested in that it was a running driving drivetrain for my car nad the price was right to get my project going.

Now I have read alot of bad raps about the GM hotcam, and rough idles. This car at times is a bit rough at idle, but could be a tuning thing.

I am thinking about just swapping everything over, and keeping the drivetrain the same, and get my 3rd gen project back on the road. Eventually if I hate the cam, I can swap it out.


Do you guys know of any concerns with a GM hotcam, or things I may want to check when I pull it form the donor car, but before I slap into the new car.

I am not too interested in doing a full build right now, more interested in getting the car back on the road and enjoying it, for now the drivetrain feels like it has lots of giddy up and go.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

I believe the gm hotcam is just an LS6 cam , it shouldn't be hard to get to idle well its a small cam either way.

3rd gens are light , a 3rd gen with a ls1/mild cam will be a good runner

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

GM hotcam is not a ls6 cam. It gets a bad rap because now a days there are better options that make more power. I went 11.6 at 115 mph with a hot cam and ls6 intake. What the hotcam does well is bump you up a little power, nice choppy idle and really maintence free, is not hard on valvetrain and springs. If you got it cheap it will do just fine if you want a little more power and sound. You want max effort it defiantly not that.

MustangEater825

Sounds good. I will likely just leave it alone. I have several other projects to worry about. I will just clean it up and drop it in.

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

Well said Zmg00camaross.
GM hot cam specs are 219/228 duration @.050", .525/.525 lift, 112 LSA. It's not a bad cam by any means at all, it's just an older design. It's actually a very maintenance free cam that won't "beat-up" the valvetrain. If 400 crank hp is what you want, that cam will very easily achieve that in an otherwise stock LS1 with headers. Tuned appropriately, the GM hot cam will have somewhat of a choppy idle, but should not have any drivability issues. It sounds like that cam will suit your desires perfectly at the moment. If I were in your shoes, I wouldn't touch it.

Edit: for example- Hot Rod mag. did an engine dyno test on a bone stock LS1 (other than 1 3/4" longtube headers) comparing the stock LS1 cam (199/208 dur, .497/.498 lift, 119 LSA) vs the GM Hot cam, with NO other changes besides cams. With the Hot cam, the engine produced 419hp @ 6,000 rpm and 393tq @ 5,200 rpm. An increase of 49hp and 42tq @ 6,200 rpm over the stock LS1 cam.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Agreed.

Hotcam is still an excellent choice if you want something with a maintenance free valve train for the life of the engine, minimal or no driveability issues (when properly tuned), and moderate performance gains over the stock cam. It's certainly not a max effort cam and won't make record dyno numbers, and that's why so many people shy away from it. It's not, by any means, a "bad cam" though - it has a purpose and is a fine choice for those who wish to accomplish that purpose. I'm still a fan of it and would happily use one myself in various types of applications.

MustangEater825

Alright came across some aftermarket parts, not really sure what they are two... maybe you guys can help?

looks like one on the passenger side as well. Black box with LED on it. It is under the car, kind of close to the 02s sensors on the longtubes.
Thanks.



One wire looks like it has a dummy plug, the side of the tranny where it would connect appears to have a dummy plug as well.

[img][/img]

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Those are o2 simulators to trick the computer into thinking catalytic converters are still installed.

It's all hear say if you have a cam or what cam it really is or whether or not who did the tune knew what they were doing.

Too bad you don't have legit evidence

MustangEater825

I thought that at first, but 2? Did an 02 Ls1 have 2 post CAT 02s?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Most definitely; there is a post-cat sensor for each cat on these cars, in fact this is standard for all OBDII vehicles to the best of my knowledge. And yes, those are O2 simulators as stated above.

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

Indeed O2 simulators and there should be two. O2 simulators are a "bandaid", they're not necessary with a properly tuned car. Meaning, they have no business being on the car if things are done right.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

yup, if the car was tuned the rear o2's would have been deleted out of it.

MustangEater825

Makes sense now. I have done some minor tunes. Agreed it's a bandaid should have been tuned out. I know most obdII cars have postcard 02s to assess the effectiveness of the CAT. I just didn't realize there were 2 Cats on LS1s.

Good news I guess... more stuff to part out in the future and maybe the car isn't tuned. More gains to be had....

MustangEater825

Surprise... going to detatch the clutch slave. Fought me. Ordered the tool online. Tool bends but doesnt release. Decide to leave attached and find the master is aftermarket adjustable. Hopefully works out, another helpful swap part.