Z28brah

So yesterday I was forced to drive through some pretty damn big puddles from a storm. The check engine light came on but the car still ran, but it was almost like at certain points it would still run but it had this sort of chugging sound I guess you could say. So I parked it for probably 3-3.5 hours, I was at work (pizza delivery), so after it sat for a while I got off and drove home and it was fine, about 2 miles away it started to do that "chugging" thing again where it was a struggle to get it over 25/30. But then at the next stop light when I accelerated a little harder than usual it was fine again. Anyone know what kind of damage there could be, and if it's anything serious?

bigbomber5

I had this issue when I bought my WS6. I'm not saying this is the absolute cause, but evidently when my old O2 sensors with extensions got soaked my car ran like total ***. Since I have LT headers I bought the proper O2 sensors, no extensions needed, and I haven't had the issue in years. A lot of people don't have issues with extensions, but some do...

Z28brah

Yeah I also have LT headers, but I have the correct O2 sensors for them, I drove it today and everything seemed to be okay, i'm hoping it stays that way.

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

maybe a little bit of water got in your motor and it burned it out.

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

when you say CAI I assume SSRA or similar for the puddle concern

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

thats exactly the reason why i never got one that hangs that low.

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

I ran one for a year and never had an issue in a high rain area. think how far that water needs to travel plus a vertical incline and past your filter then through a section up to your TB. very slim chance and if you are getting water in at that point you have bigger problems because your car is in a lake

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

other things like they block your radiator and a chance of damage from it being so low.


the fact theres any chance at all of sucking water into my engine worries me.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

My last 2 cars had SSRA systems. Last car I actually got stuck in the rain a few times. Major downpours. Ended up fine.

Current car I tried the big SSRA and the regular one. I got caught in the biggest storm i'v ever driven through on the way home from the track 2.5 hrs away. Never had any issues.

Am I saying don't worry about it? No way. I would never install one on a DD or a car you will drive in rain. If by any chance I ever get caught in rain, I take the blockoff off the airbox. That way, the air isn't only limited to sucking the air up through the duct under the car. Its more likely to suck through the stock opening on the airbox.

Take care in using these things. Iv never had any issues but I sure as hell don't want to destroy a motor because of that. Im sure no one does.

Is your car still good OP?

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

never had an issue with overheating in fact the car still ran under 180 temps and I live in FL with summer temps in the high 90s.

and damaging it? your air dam hangs lower. chances are your headers hang lower on some cars.

don't be stupid and you wont damage it, the JAWS edition I would never run but regular SSRA? used it, was very happy, and noticed a decent increase.

I guess its not for everyone and that's fine, just stating my time with it which was nothing other than positive and happy.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Over heating? I ran the megamouth and it wasn't worth it to me on a street car. It most definitely made my car run warmer and yes I was reading via pcm. It did not allow the fans to pull the same airflow through the radiator either.
I went back to the a/c version and I run that with a/c deleted. With no condenser in the way, it leaves room to run my big bad *** trans cooler mounted on my LT1 radiator. Absolutely perfect efficiency and better than stock. Its setup perfectly for when the stroker goes in

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

I had regular SSRA not megamouth, couldn't delete A/C on a Florida DD car. The car ran well and I didn't do SSRA at time of other mods I know it performed better after just it.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

In Fl I wouldn't delete the a/c either unless its mostly track car.
When I first ran a a/c version SSRA 10 years ago WITH a/c in the car, my condenser couldn't release heat enough. I did overheat. I remember I would have to shut the a/c off when I saw temps too high. Then it would go back to normal. But that was 10 years ago and there were other things making it worse like for example, I didn't have the maintenance skills I have now, so the radiator was probably jammed with crap. My setup now is perfect though
And FWIW I did run the a/c version WITH a/c in the car on my current car 6 years ago. It would also overheat but I had a trans cooler on the condenser with that setup. So that's another factor as well.

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

as i said. thanks for verifying my concerns about running hot and possible damage.

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

idk to each his own, I didn't have a trans cooler or jammed radiator was a bolt on car and it ran fine, never north of 180-190. I will still stand by it, and I am moving to WA state for a few years so I wont have the heat factor of florida like there is now.

I could see how a trans cooler could add up to it and honestly if I was running a trans cooler I prob would run JAAM, my concern with it though is that WA rains a lot and JAAM has a much higher chance of water ingestion than SSRA

Z28brah

Thanks for the replies everybody, as far as I can tell there's no serious problems. But there is one thing that has me a little worried, when I start my car up fairly soon after I park it, say like 15-30 minutes, it does this thing where it almost feels like it's clogged and I can't accelerate, so I just stay off the gas and let it do it's thing, then after like 100 feet of just rolling along whatever is wrong with it sort of "unclogs" and it sort of feels like it shifts into normal. Oh and also when this is happening the idle hovers at 3-400 rpm.