fakky

How do you mean ?

DOD and VVT etc ?

Thought mostly those things not so much a big deal these days with aftermarket cams

fakky

Sort of a segway.
If you buy and engine/trans combo without a ECM/harness ...... how do you deal with VIN.

Going into a 57 --- so dont think the VIN thing is relevant ..... but if you buy a ECM online like ebay ...... just leave the VIN as anyting ?

eg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/08-SILVERAD...5Yt2Ju&vxp=mtr

and this the same for all year trucks (3/4/5th gen) ? etc

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

That seems like a lot for an ls1 a4 pull out to me.

fakky

A little higher than other places I have seen online like ebay/CL

But .... feel better about seeing it in person and doing a leakdown test before handing over $3k+
And oil/other checks etc

Ebay makes me nervous in terms of getting something returned if there was an issue

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi TBerg, thanks as you are the ONLY one who responded to the FACT that their is MORE than one LS-1 engine specification, early/late.

I have assembled "late" LS-1 crankcase engines with NO strength problems caused by what I stated.

My "tech" was as yours, find a 2000+ LS-1 engine (stronger) AND they will be close in price. (early/late)
My report DID NOT support a GDI engine choice.

My method is to buy a Escalade Truck 2007+ with the L-92. (6.2L)
This has been done by "bidding" on a Total Crash Parts CAR (no title/rollover) with a winning bid of $2550.00.

Lance

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I would do whatever is easiest to package and tune. Most like stay gen3 or 4, then choose aluminum vs cast iron on weight and $$ in the budget. The newer stuff has more crap to delete, trickier to tune, etc etc. Internals arent important at 500hp, they all can do that without issue.

fakky

Thanks for info guys.

Last one I can think of

The accessories in the LS1 style versus truck style.

How much can be reused (typically).

Meaning if you can use the oil pan from the LS1 generally - then that also saves you $200 from biuying one on a 5.3 truck for example to fix clearance.

How about the accessories and position etc. Going in an older vehicle.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Truck accs sit a little higher. Car stuff is packaged a little lower/closer. Truck stuff is generally much cheaper bc its more readily available. Oil pans depend on frame clearance, truck pans hang quite a bit lower then car pans.

bammax

Since you're swapping into an old truck you should probably start with the truck accessories. The car set up puts things down low and can cause some fit issues with the steering and frame rail. If you can find a company that makes a kit with mounts and oil pan they'll note the accessories that fit with the position that their kit puts the engine in.

It might be worth picking up a blown truck motor for a hundred bucks to use for test fitting and mock up. If everything goes together well all you need to replace is the long block since you already have all the accessories and brackets.

garygnu

the newer the combo the more can of worms you encounter.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I tend to lean towards newer engines.


That said, I think year 2000 is too old. How about you find something newer but not so new?

bammax

Since when is 2000 the dark ages? Lol

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

The oldest engine I would even think of using is 2002. Soon I will say 2004. The number doesn't go down, it goes up.

In 98-00 Chevrolet made some significant leaps and bounds, but it was like the earliest ("darkest" if you will) ages of the newest tech that is to come.

IMO right now 2004~ Gen 4 rod 5.3 type engine is all the hype/rage. Everyone talking about the L33 and how boost friendly it is.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You literally NEVER seem to look at the big picture. By lack of knowledge or hard-headedness. The l33 is popular for a ton of reasons. Its aluminum, and its a gen3/4 hybrid. Meaning it has better gen4 internals, but an old style gen3 computer (which i prefer) can run it due to a 24 tooth crank. 3 bolt cams are more popular on the used market, it comes with the better 799 heads etc etc. Its a gem for boosted applications, and holds the fastest stock bottom end record. I should know, I have one in my car. For transplants, I prefer drive by cable (i have both). I dont trust the drive by wire IF i have a choice. Drive by cable means older computer, and if you want a direct swap you need to be around 06 and older depending on exact engine choice. Like i said, I would try to match the setup, an fbody for instance, has an older computer, setup for DBC, rear cam sensor, can control a 4L80e with a segment swap, is super easy to tune, can have a custom OS 3bar flashed in for free....An 05-07 gen3/4 is perfect for it (cast or aluminum), especially for boost. If you want DBW, go ahead and step up to a newer gen4 engine, do a matching newer computer/harness, get ready to delete the variable cam crap, and maybe look for a single bolt cam etc etc. Again, there is no perfect engine, match the setup.

fakky

I was mainly thinking of the oil pan it seems like most people have to go aftermarket or from some low profile like a cadillac CTSV etc ..... just means if I can reuse the oil pan from say a LS1 versus having to buy one for a truck engine ...... adds $200 to each side of the equation etc


The reason for moving forward on the engine now is really fitment of the transmission tunnel more than anything. Finishing off the rust patching on the passenger door hanger .... then will clean nad prime everything ..... but before I start laying down interior sound proofing and paint and evven interiror accessories .... figuerd might as well get the engine/trans fitment in .... probably be another 6 months before anything gets fired up.
I can get a core block easy enough ...... its the trans side mainly concerned with. Might help with oil pan though.

Yeah - I know there are more things like DOD/VVT but seems lots of aftermarket options now - right ?

2004 with 145k miles is best I have found so far. There is a LQ9 with 90k miles .... might have to go look at it - bit pricey though.



Have seen an l83 with 30miles advertised about 2 hours away ..... might go look at it.

Nothing to match - going into a 57 truck
But good points ....... IM torn on the DBC/DBW stuff but have no experience so interesting to hear.


thx guys

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Again, if you select a PCM first, you may be stuck with cable or wire. If DBW, you CANNOT backwards convert to a gen3 engine (24 crank) or cable throttle after the fact. Thats the whole point, dont buy anything until you know what you are locking yourself into.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I dont see how this is any different from what I said. I told him to look for an L33, you jump in and say hey thats not right, he should use an L33 cause thats what I used.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Again, you miss the point completely. You said use an l33 cause the internet said so. I said people use it for xx reasons. I used it bc it fit my application perfectly. That wont apply to everyone, and i didnt imply that it would.

bammax

Since all the gen 3/4/5 mount the same you can use any core for mockup. The trans position will be based on how far back the motor mounts position the block. If you clearance the firewall and floorplan for a 4l80 or even a newer 6l80 you'll have plenty of room for anything else you would want since the other common options are smaller. If you mockup a 700r4 and decide later to go with a 4l80 you'll have to make more room. It really comes down to how much leg room you're willing to sacrifice in exchange for trans strength. The quick and easy way is to get a donor and use the engine, trans and wiring as a complete package. That most likely means a 4l60/70 or 4l80 depending on the donor.

MuhThugga

Grade-A retardation right there.