Accusump, just my experience with them.
05-10-2018, 05:44 PM
#1
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
Accusump, just my experience with them. I've run a lot of road race cars with them,, here is some stuff I figured out dinning with them.
On the engines I've had experience with these have been motor savers...
Accusump. Use the Big one on any v8...
Do not wire the electric solenoid to turn on 100% of the time, the solenoid will die,
the solenoid needs to be triggered by a oil pressure switch, the valve is a check valve
when not activated, the sump will fill with oil while running, if the pressure switch trips the
valve opens and rams oil into the system until the switch gets enough pressure to open.
When pressure returns the valve closes. and the sump refills, this happens very very fast.
I don't recommend the sump be close to the driver, the pressure relief valve will spray a
small amount of oil occasionally and it gets all over.. On my car I plumbed a tube from the
pressure relief to the valve cover so the oil went back in the motor ...
(I'm not 100% sure why there is a pressure relief valve except for lawyers.. )
If you run the mechanical valve, you open it when the engine is running , it will fill and not
back-feed to the motor unless the oil pressure in the engine drops below the pressure in the
accusump. When you stop the car hold the engine up at about 2000 rpm for 5 seconds
(Oil pressure gauge for engine must be higher than charge pressure on the accusump),
close valve then let engine idle down, then turn off.
To check the oil with an accusump you make sure the car has run at full oil pressure for at least 5 to 10
seconds after the electrical or mechanical valve is shut.
You now have however many quarts the accusump holds plus whats in the motor.
Check your oil on the dipstick, I always ran the oil to the full line unless I was having windage problems.
You'll have a lot of extra oil at idle in the crankcase with the mechanical valve so its worth checking to
make sure your not hitting the crank on the oil even at idle.
By the way one of the handiest things I've found lately is to weld a bung on both sides of the oil pan up near
the block so you can look inside with a bore camera
A hydraulic system oil level fitting (One of those glass eye things) is also handy if installed to show your full level.
I started putting them on dry sump tanks on sprint cars after a couple renter drivers tried to run them without oil..
On the engines I've had experience with these have been motor savers...
Accusump. Use the Big one on any v8...
Do not wire the electric solenoid to turn on 100% of the time, the solenoid will die,
the solenoid needs to be triggered by a oil pressure switch, the valve is a check valve
when not activated, the sump will fill with oil while running, if the pressure switch trips the
valve opens and rams oil into the system until the switch gets enough pressure to open.
When pressure returns the valve closes. and the sump refills, this happens very very fast.
I don't recommend the sump be close to the driver, the pressure relief valve will spray a
small amount of oil occasionally and it gets all over.. On my car I plumbed a tube from the
pressure relief to the valve cover so the oil went back in the motor ...
(I'm not 100% sure why there is a pressure relief valve except for lawyers.. )
If you run the mechanical valve, you open it when the engine is running , it will fill and not
back-feed to the motor unless the oil pressure in the engine drops below the pressure in the
accusump. When you stop the car hold the engine up at about 2000 rpm for 5 seconds
(Oil pressure gauge for engine must be higher than charge pressure on the accusump),
close valve then let engine idle down, then turn off.
To check the oil with an accusump you make sure the car has run at full oil pressure for at least 5 to 10
seconds after the electrical or mechanical valve is shut.
You now have however many quarts the accusump holds plus whats in the motor.
Check your oil on the dipstick, I always ran the oil to the full line unless I was having windage problems.
You'll have a lot of extra oil at idle in the crankcase with the mechanical valve so its worth checking to
make sure your not hitting the crank on the oil even at idle.
By the way one of the handiest things I've found lately is to weld a bung on both sides of the oil pan up near
the block so you can look inside with a bore camera
A hydraulic system oil level fitting (One of those glass eye things) is also handy if installed to show your full level.
I started putting them on dry sump tanks on sprint cars after a couple renter drivers tried to run them without oil..
05-11-2018, 10:36 AM
#2
FormerVendor
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Pantera Twin Turbo + Accusump Hi PDX, a great report.
My report is as yours with added track racing at Riverside 1974 on my Pantera Twin Turbo . (1.24's Lap)
I found that in turn nine the Oil Pressure was dropping to 1/2 normal at Apex.
THUS my driving ability was greater than my fitted Aviaid Oil Pan.
I fitted the Accusump, your method, with oil pressure now a constant read.
Two years later I upgraded the Pantera to Dry Sump oil system.
Lance
My report is as yours with added track racing at Riverside 1974 on my Pantera Twin Turbo . (1.24's Lap)
I found that in turn nine the Oil Pressure was dropping to 1/2 normal at Apex.
THUS my driving ability was greater than my fitted Aviaid Oil Pan.
I fitted the Accusump, your method, with oil pressure now a constant read.
Two years later I upgraded the Pantera to Dry Sump oil system.
Lance