How much will a stock 5.3 take?
08-22-2018 | 11:03 PM
#1
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How much will a stock 5.3 take? Alright, so I’m swapping a 5.3 into an s10, Doing everything wrong, and trying to make it work right. I’m buying a cheap 72mm Ebay turbo, cheap wastegate, good BOV, and plan on strapping all that to a dead stock 5.3. The truck is gonna weigh roughly 3600 with me in it, and I plan on mid to low 11’s. I’ve heard of valves floating around 10-12 pounds, so should I go for PAC springs? Good head gaskets? What’s the absolute cheapest and easiest for me to make this motor handle the power for a year or two until my legit motor is done. Also, 80e...should it be fine with just a shift kit? Who would you recommend for a cheap converter? Give me all the tips and tricks. Thanks guys
08-23-2018 | 06:08 AM
#2
08-23-2018 | 08:51 AM
#3
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I read a article in car craft thet stuck one in a s10 and the article was about how much abuse a stock 5.3 can take they ran it up to 30 pounds of boost before it let loose and i thought they got like 200 passes out of it
08-29-2018 | 11:30 PM
#5
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From: PNW
I don’t know where you’re getting your information from but boost has absolutely nothing to do with valve float. Clearly you’re reading something wrong or you have selective hearing. RPM is where valve float comes into play, not boost. Seems your screen name is over reaching a bit.
08-30-2018 | 08:53 AM
#6
Boost most certainly plays a part in valve float. Pressure hits the back of the valve and works against the spring. Seat pressure is reduced by the amount of boost vs area of the valve. IE:seat pressure = 100 and boost is 10 psi. If valve is 2.00" then seat pressure is reduced to 80psi. I'm not sure thats the right formula but you get the idea. When its open there is a lot more math involved.
09-01-2018 | 03:52 PM
#7
I don’t know where you’re getting your information from but boost has absolutely nothing to do with valve float. Clearly you’re reading something wrong or you have selective hearing. RPM is where valve float comes into play, not boost. Seems your screen name is over reaching a bit.
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09-05-2018 | 05:07 AM
#8
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From: PNW
Boost most certainly plays a part in valve float. Pressure hits the back of the valve and works against the spring. Seat pressure is reduced by the amount of boost vs area of the valve. IE:seat pressure = 100 and boost is 10 psi. If valve is 2.00" then seat pressure is reduced to 80psi. I'm not sure thats the right formula but you get the idea. When its open there is a lot more math involved.
09-05-2018 | 07:06 AM
#9
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What in the flying fck does seat pressure have to do with valve float? Low seat pressure can induce BOUNCE, but not float - and no amount of boost can cause one to float when it's open because the pressure is equalized on both sides of the valve when it's open. You two are also forgetting that there's a lot of pressure inside that cylinder at all times from exhaust gases, compression forces or the very intake charge that was just forced in there. Plain and simple - you're not experiencing valve float from boost - you're experiencing it from a general lack of control from your valvetrain. It's you two that clearly don't know anything.
I always wondered what happened to KingTal0n.
09-05-2018 | 05:38 PM
#11
What in the flying fck does seat pressure have to do with valve float? Low seat pressure can induce BOUNCE, but not float - and no amount of boost can cause one to float when it's open because the pressure is equalized on both sides of the valve when it's open. You two are also forgetting that there's a lot of pressure inside that cylinder at all times from exhaust gases, compression forces or the very intake charge that was just forced in there. Plain and simple - you're not experiencing valve float from boost - you're experiencing it from a general lack of control from your valvetrain. It's you two that clearly don't know anything.
"Lot of pressure inside the cylinder at all times"....Where do people come up with this **** lol
09-05-2018 | 10:14 PM
#13
I'm at 10psi and plan to make a pulley change this winter that should get me into the 12-14 psi range, I run E85 so I feel comfortable at that range. Honestly I wouldn't even bother spending the money to go boosted unless I was making at least 8psi.
09-06-2018 | 06:29 AM
#14
What in the flying fck does seat pressure have to do with valve float? Low seat pressure can induce BOUNCE, but not float - and no amount of boost can cause one to float when it's open because the pressure is equalized on both sides of the valve when it's open. You two are also forgetting that there's a lot of pressure inside that cylinder at all times from exhaust gases, compression forces or the very intake charge that was just forced in there. Plain and simple - you're not experiencing valve float from boost - you're experiencing it from a general lack of control from your valvetrain. It's you two that clearly don't know anything.
So, to the OP, LS9 head gaskets, gap the rings for boost, throw some new LS3 springs on it, E85 tune, and let it eat. What trans are you going with?
09-06-2018 | 07:28 AM
#16
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From: Ohio
Seat pressure is typically more of an issue in turbo setups than open pressure. Most OEM springs have low seat pressure that gets reduced even further by boost, so the force of the intake valve hitting the seat at high RPM causes it to bounce back open. This is still technically valve float.
09-06-2018 | 07:52 AM
#18
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From: Ohio
09-06-2018 | 09:17 AM
#19
OP said cheap as possible though without blowing it up. Stock cam and LS3 springs will work just fine for 10 psi. So will stock gap rings, TTY head bolts, and completely stock rotating assy for that matter as long as it runs fine N/A and doesnt have issues. Hence my very first post in this thread. If it was me, I'd inspect the center main bearing and leave the bottom end alone if it looked good. If doing new head gaskets I'd also throw LS3 springs with new valve seals in it, a set of new LS7 lifters (old 5.3 lifters driven by mom who never changed the oil tend to be full of sludge) and trays, new gaskets (front/rear cover and oil pan) new HP oil pump, and a new stock chain. If I wanted it to live for 2 years and beat the snot out of it. We all know that 10 psi will become 15-18 next year lol
09-16-2018 | 07:16 AM
#20
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OP said cheap as possible though without blowing it up. Stock cam and LS3 springs will work just fine for 10 psi. So will stock gap rings, TTY head bolts, and completely stock rotating assy for that matter as long as it runs fine N/A and doesnt have issues. Hence my very first post in this thread. If it was me, I'd inspect the center main bearing and leave the bottom end alone if it looked good. If doing new head gaskets I'd also throw LS3 springs with new valve seals in it, a set of new LS7 lifters (old 5.3 lifters driven by mom who never changed the oil tend to be full of sludge) and trays, new gaskets (front/rear cover and oil pan) new HP oil pump, and a new stock chain. If I wanted it to live for 2 years and beat the snot out of it. We all know that 10 psi will become 15-18 next year lol