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I've had vacuum leaks before that have created high idle and "cruise control", but never misfires - especially at near idle rpms. It would have to be crazy lean for it to misfire under those conditions.
I guess that the alternate scenario is that the lean condition cause by the vacuum leak could cause fuel trims to go berzerk dumping fuel. Have you logged your short and long term fuel trims?
I haven't. I've been debating on getting HP tuners. I'm old school when it comes to tuning.... all mechanical. There would be a learning curve but I think I'd be a pig in mud.
I think that's the next step. There are definitely some tweaks needed; especially when cold. Also - on the highway it runs at a higher RPM until a certain temperature is reached before the torque converter locks. I takes a little longer than I think it should.
So you've been there and done that. Good that your issues were fixed.
The shop said that they wanted to exceed my expectations .... so I'll let them! The tune still needs some tweaks and I don't want to see a check engine light on!
Yup, that's why I feel so when I see others go through the same thing. It's infuriating.
I once told a woman I wanted to exceed her expectations. Haha
Check engine lights suck to see. My eyes get fixated on them and I bet you're the same way.
Hopefully they exceed expectations but at a minimum reach them.
Also - on the highway it runs at a higher RPM until a certain temperature is reached before the torque converter locks. I takes a little longer than I think it should.
That's a factory setting that can be changed by your tuner. IIRC, it's 140*F coolant temp. It can take a while on a really cold day.
That's a factory setting that can be changed by your tuner. IIRC, it's 140*F coolant temp. It can take a while on a really cold day.
That's true. On a cold day, it definitely takes longer. One thing that is for sure now, I'm not driving this car to save gas!! LOL.
Anyhow, until this goes back, I'm still troubleshooting. I believe that the PO327 knock sensor code is setting falsely due to clearance issues with the LT headers. I was going to change the oil again today and take a good look under there. I was thinking about wrapping the pipe where it's hitting with some exhaust wrap. I would think that it would reduce the amplitude of the signal that the KS is putting out.
Any thoughts on that?
Yesterday I swapped out my alternator. My voltages has been jumping all over the place. I suspect a shorted diode. That solved that issue ...however ... with the codes cleared, I drove 40 miles to work and got a PO300. I then drove the 40 miles home and now have P00D9, B3700, PO332, PO327.:mad ::mad ::mad ::mad :
Hey J, I think you'll need to either grind the K member a little bit to properly clearance the header. I know some folks will dent the header but that seems like a bad idea to me. Here's a thread worth looking at. Based on what I saw, I think you have the same issue but on the passenger side. PO327 will likely go away once this is clearanced. The down side is that I think you'll need to remove the header to clearance it correctly.
That alternator issue sounds like an arcing hot. Is there any insulation missing on the primary hot near the alternator? Maybe near the headers? I've seen a similar issue when the hot insulator to the starter was damaged.
Yea that contact can also cause problems all the way to the tailpipe..
Stress cracking its cause the tubes cant flex as they heat and cool.
It can also affect 02 sensors function, as there is a piezo effect in some of the 02 sensors matrix..
That alternator issue sounds like an arcing hot. Is there any insulation missing on the primary hot near the alternator? Maybe near the headers? I've seen a similar issue when the hot insulator to the starter was damaged.
It's been like that for quite some time. I don't know if those alternators are much different from the old school Pontiac, but it had a diode trio and if one of those shorts (0 Ohms), you'll have pulsating DC - which is a bit much for the regulator to smooth out.
I didn't look at it with my scope or open it up. I was fairly certain a swap would take care of it.... and it did - which is the only good news from my drive today. A side note, my cruise control stopped working after the alternator swap. Actually it worked once today. LOL. I have a feeling that maybe the cable is in a bind down there.
Hey J, I think you'll need to either grind the K member a little bit to properly clearance the header. I know some folks will dent the header but that seems like a bad idea to me. Here's a thread worth looking at. Based on what I saw, I think you have the same issue but on the passenger side. PO327 will likely go away once this is clearanced. The down side is that I think you'll need to remove the header to clearance it correctly.
Thanks for that info, R. I wonder if I'd be better off lowering the K member as opposed to yanking the header. I agree with you ... not a fan of denting the header.
Is it a vacuum cruise actuator? did the hose get knocked off while you were fussing with the alternator?
Pretty sure it's a cable that runs from the controller to the throttle. There's a motor in the control module ( or whatever that's called). The fact that it worked once this morning let me to believe that it's a intermittent connection and I bumped a connector or the cable is kinked or something.
Yep sounds like a loose connection.. I was thinking of your codes,, like which parts might have gotten bumped while doing the alternator..
Vacuum lines will be the death of me.. LOL
Yep sounds like a loose connection.. I was thinking of your codes,, like which parts might have gotten bumped while doing the alternator..
Vacuum lines will be the death of me.. LOL
Yeah ... exactly. A little back story on that cruise ... a few years ago it would work until I'd hit a bump in the road and then I would not be able to re-enable it until maybe the next time I drove it (power cycle). That went on for a short while until it just quit.
After the build, I'll be damned if the cruise started working again! And it's been working until the alternator swap. I'm not a parts swapper, I'm an engineer and want to find a smoking gun. Time to break out the tech2 that I just got!
Oh ... and the kinked cable theory, not! I do love my cruise control.
If it were me..I'd just hammer the header..it makes 0 difference performance wise..you can basically flatten it and it'd never lose a hp. Tubular k member is great for room..but if just worried about codes .I'd start by clearance and see if it goes away first. Would suck to keep sinking money into just to find it is something else. Hammer the header.
If it were me..I'd just hammer the header..it makes 0 difference performance wise..you can basically flatten it and it'd never lose a hp. Tubular k member is great for room..but if just worried about codes .I'd start by clearance and see if it goes away first. Would suck to keep sinking money into just to find it is something else. Hammer the header.
I'm definitely worried about the codes. Come July, this car will be a giant paper weight to me. That's when I have to get emissions and new tag.
Even if I can stop the false detection of knocks, I still have the PO300 misfires to deal with. I emailed the shop about them taking this car back ... that was two days ago and haven't heard back from them. I'm actually surprised that any shop would have sent that out to the customer. The person that installed the headers should have known that it was going to be a problem. Patience is running out ......
If it were me..I'd just hammer the header..it makes 0 difference performance wise..you can basically flatten it and it'd never lose a hp. Tubular k member is great for room..but if just worried about codes .I'd start by clearance and see if it goes away first. Would suck to keep sinking money into just to find it is something else. Hammer the header.
I personally wouldn't care if it were dinged to clearance it. I spent over 5 digits on this build and shouldn't have to do anything but drive it. That's only one of many issues with this car.
01-11-2022, 07:52 AM
