I’d like to back flush my ACs evape core all other parts are new for my AC rebuild.

Plan to use airasol flush though top port at firewall the lower port has the orifci fliter so I will be back flushing.

Besides reusing evape core will reuse the metal line from top of condenser to input of orifce.will flush it to in both directions



After spraying the flush will blow out solvent w/ a miniature air compressor, I think the small rubber cone on air compressors dispenser will be just big enough to seal the firewall port if not I’ll duck tape.

confussed on AC oil:
So even though my compressor has the drain plug but doesn’t have the plug/switch on back (as this man explains at 15minute mark) my compressor is not variable displacement.

I think It is a cycleing compressor so half of total sys. oil (I believeGM recommends 8 or 9OZ)goe’s into compressor other half into the dryer or evape depending on if you have orifce or expansion. Since I have orifice other half of oil goe’s in dryer.

Haynes shop manuel advice is differnt oil each part 5oz comp (maybe 6oz) 2oz in dryer 1oz evape
1oz condenser in conclusion I could be 1oz overfilled.
or should I drain 1oz from comp.? the compressor co. says they shipped it w/ 6.1OZ I could only drain 5OZ (I refilled what I drained) but they said you won't get all of it out.

I purchased the complete kit from GPD they say don't add any oil to any other part they say the compressor will distribute the correct amount of oil to each part but how this comp has a crankcase. so I'm still confused on the oil.
thanks


Refenceing this video bc it’s one of the more detailed.







How doe’s my plan sound?thanks

 

Why do you think it's not variable displacement? If it's not you got the wrong one.

You need to put oil in the system. Doesn't matter where it needs to end up in the system in the proper amount and not get sucked out by the vacuum pump

 

I trust crockauto sold me the correct compressor. however I'm finding out you don't just slap the new parts in skirt some freon an call it a day.
finding out it's alot more involved than I thought.
here's the kit I purchased

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=17507&jsn=410

I actually don't have anything in writing from GPD saying what type of compressor it is.I was just informed from the net on another forum.

did you see the video I linked to? do you agree w/ how he explains the 2 differnt types of compressor an how to oil them?

are you saying the correct compressor is a variable displacement? this AC is very confusing w/ alot of conflicting instructions. thanks for much needed advice if you only knew how many nightmare threads I've read here of ppl ruining parts w/ just not knowing.I don't wannta be that guy.

edit: yes I have been informed the vacuum will suck oil out of the evap an condenser but not sucked out of the compressor bc it has a crankcase basicelly the same w/ dryer.

 

All '98 to '02 4th gens use a V7 compressor. Even the V6 cars, they use a different housing though. The V is for Variable displacement.
Heres the Compressor control valve in the picture in your other thread.


Here it is by itself. https://www.finditparts.com/products...ologies-mt2240

I hope you plan on taking the orifice tube out before flushing it.
I also hope you don't used duct tape on anything. That and solvent makes a hell of a mess.

I think everything has been covered in the other thread.

Clean everything inside that being reused
Replace o-rings, seals, and orifice tube, etc
Leak check with pressure
Ensure that there is 8-9 ounces PAG 150 in the system anywhere, it circulates it will end up everywhere
Evacuate (that means use a vacuum pump, some people think it means have a shop remove freon)
Add 134a by weight while holding the can upside down

It's that simple.

 

dam that's the first I've heard of a compressor control valve, is this also know as a switch?
do I have to remove the c-clip an remove this valve from old compressor an reuse it in new comp.?
or doe's new compressor come w/ this valve?

since the V7 is a Variable displacement type compressor do you agree w/ the vid I link to about only putting oil in compressor an leave the rest dry?

yes of course I remove orifci flliter before back flush. I was gonna use duck tape around the air compressors rubber cone like if it was to small to fit in evape output port to seal where I was blowing air in. thanks gene cheeseman

 

I don't see a video and I'm not really interested in watching it.

You DO NOT remove this valve that I posted a link to, the compressor control valve, don't remove it.
It's not a switch, and you don't need a switch.

I'm not explaining the oil thing again.

When you change the oil in an engine you could drop the pan and put the new oil in there, you could take a valve cover off and put it there, you could take the valley cover off and put it in there, you could take the timing cover off and put it in there, hell you could get a pump and pump the new oil into the drain plug hole, you could divide it into 5 equal amounts and put it in every one of these locations. Where does it all end up?

Yes, in the engine.

Put the oil in the a/c system like I said a few times in the other thread.

 

^excellent explaination on oiling you saying all oil ends up in compressors crankcase.
I'll reread the oiling in other thread but leaning to just adding 3OZ to dryer to prevent the vacuum sucking it out.
you know I got the new compressor installed an the new sucksion/discharge tube.also removed trans cooler an old condenser.
what put me on hold was the lower stud at condenser, new condenser didn't come w/ stud I need a inverted torq socket to remove an reuse from old condenser also the condensers top bolt for sucksion tube came up missing.
got lucky w/ Florida weather it's not to hot where AC is needed.next trip in mid June differnt story.
thanks

 

It may not be the best comparison. With an a/c system the compressor doesn't hold most of the oil like an engine crankcase (or oil pan)

The oil circulates with the freon, thats just how it is, theres nothing else that needs lubrication but theres no way to keep the oil in the compressor.

Everything I've taken apart has most of the oil in the compressor and accumulator with the rest being in the evaporator and condenser in smaller amounts.

The oil travels with the freon. This is why you might see people recommending to put a small amount here and there. Like divide the 8 to 9 ounces up to put a few ounces in each component.

This is why I say divide the 8 to 9 ounces up and put it in the compressor and accumulator. The only thing that needs lubrication is the compressor so if you have oil in the compressor it will get lubricated. Then put the rest in the accumulator, the accumulator is a tank where freon and oil accumulates, the tube that freon and oil come into goes to the bottom of it and the tube it goes out of is towards the top so it's impossible for liquid freon or oil to enter the compressor. Liquid will damage the compressor. So, when you put oil in the accumulator it will only exit into the compressor, the only thing that needs oil, as a mist (vapor or whatever, but not liquid) and from there the compressor will pump oil and freon mist/vapor to the condenser leaving some behind until there is 8 to 9 ounces of oil divided up in each component by normal operation and without starving the compressor with oil and with zero chance of getting sucked into a vacuum pump.

 

Gene Cheeseman w/ the correct torqu socket I think I can reuse the condensers lower stud.
the condenser top bolt came up missing do other GM cars of the 99 era share the same condenser where I can get a replacement bolt? thanks for advice I plan to button her up mid next week.that's if I can connect the gauge couplers.

 

The '98 to 2002 use the same lower stud, the older ones used a thread on hose.

Usually the torx end strips even with the proper sized torx socket. Won't hurt to try it though. I've had better luck with using the tip of the bigger vice grips clamped hard on the end of the bolt.
The top bolt is like every bolt in an LS1 engine, an exhaust bolt fits perfect, or any other bolt on an LS1 like oil pan, timing cover, etc. M8 coarse thread.

You could just measure both and get bolts or studs or one of each from an Ace Hardware store.

 

update of progress:
cruised by junk yard the other day for tow vehicle stuff didn't see a single AC condenser that looked like the f-bodys (I wanted the condensers top bolt all I saw where torq studs).

I was able to remove an reuse the lower stud from old condenser.
is the top condenser bolt aluminum? I think I placed it on the battery an while I wasn't paying attention it rolled off never to be sean again.
I usalley have tools an nuts bolts ect. in a tray for safe keeping must have slacked off but mite have put this steel bolt in the tray an forgot to categorize it.

now I need to reread how to connect the gauge couplers I was having diffaculty w/. didn't you say to leave the tubes dissconnected like connect couplers then connect the tubes I know you where stressing safety.
thanks

 

hello cheeseman are you there. I'm thinking the steel bolt I have for top tube at condenser is the correct bolt, bc I just looked the dryer tube is attached w/ a steel bolt.
plan to install condenser today or tomorrow.

 

Yea, that is the bolt.
I thought I said it before, I used an LS1 timing cover bolt there once. If you know LS engines all the 10mm hex head size 8mm bolts are the same size throughout the engine. There are two sizes actually.

But man, just put the bolt up to it and see if it's either going to bottom out, or not long enough.

 

Update: was able to button up sys. used the steel bolt. I back flushed the evape core flushed then blew out w/ compressed air wasn’t able to get clear fuild got greenish brown fuild,which got liter after each flush, this after 2 cans of flush.metal line flushed clear fuild.

Vacuumed for half hour w/ both valves open.she went down to -30 in about 3 minutes is this time about right? observed steam exiting the vacuum pump.closed both valves then turned off vacuum.

After one hour low pressure gauge stayed at -30

Most of the videos I’ve watched the gauges used had **** my gauges don’t have **** so I hope I’ve dune something?

Plan to vacuum for 10 hours tomorrow.as you previously recommended.



When I get ready to recharge (will only open low pressure side)can I remove the dispenser from the EZ chill can an attach my can piercer for my first can of Freon? Like since I now have gauges don’t ever forsee recharging w/out gauges.

Still waiting on new AC drive belt, maybe I’ll just continue to use the original it’s 24 years old to charge sys.
thanks.

 

cheeseman are you there
I'm one step away from recharging. I've allready replaced everything except the high pressures schraider valve next to radiator cap however I'm unable to remove it. is it built into the tube? images of my tools which I've used on the pressure relief valve (same as schraider valve) inside fuel rail.

also waiting on responses from previous post.thanks

 

If you pulled a vacuum you need to go straight to charging.
Did you pull a vacuum and mess with the Schrader valve?

That one takes a different tool than what you have.

 

Here’s what I’ve done Tuesday I did the initial vacuum. Where I observed some steam from pump only for maybe 5 minutes this w/ connecting yellow tube to the top vertical fitting of rental pump per instruction booklet.

For me to be able to connect yellow tube I had to insert a adaptor (it had a schraider valve) not sure if I should have been using this adaptor? She held -30 for 45minutes then I discoed gauge.



Wensday I vacuumed for about 6 hours (per cheesemans advice if I remember correctly he said 24 hours) however this time I connected yellow tube directly to the horizontal fitting on pump

I believe the vertical fitting is for r12 an the horizontal is for r134A anyway



I observed steam though the intire 6 hours of vacuuming unlike the vertical fitting.

I also observed oil leakage at the yellow tube where it connected at pump there was so much oil

It made a big stain mark on driveway.



Watched more videos an saw a few schraider valves fail so I desided since I’ve already replaced pretty much all parts don’t recharge w/ the 25 year old schraider valve even though it did hold vacuum on both vacuums.



Also my new AC drive belt won’t arrive till Sunday, so I’m thinking just slap the old belt on just to recharge (I’ll probably just leave it on get my $s worth outta it then replace after it breaks).



So what type of schraider valve tool will I need to replace the old valve w/? don’t want to waste $35. of Freon over a $5. valve. thanks for advice

 

Dude, hold up.

You can't run a vacuum and then just take the hoses off. You could run a vacuum on it for a week but once you start screwing with removing Schrader valves, or even take the hoses off, you're back to square one. ALL of that time on the vacuum pump is wasted.

-30 on the gauge is nothing, thats inches of mercury. You can have a pretty big leak and hold -30. Technically it's 29.92 inches of mercury.

This is why people like that other guy get frustrated, they can write a book on how to do your a/c right but damn you need to right a second book four times as thick on what NOT to do.

Yea, you might as well pull a 5 minute vacuum like your shop said, or even don't bother. If you open the system ANY vacuum time was wasted time.

And you say you used two different fittings on the vacuum pump. One is SAE the other is ACME, if you managed to thread, say, the ACME onto the SAE it never sealed so you might have read a -30 on the gauge but in reality the system is not seeing a proper vacuum.
The "steam" you saw is either oil getting sucked out or all the hoses weren't tight, like the wrong hose on the pump fitting.

This process needs to be fast, from the time you add oil and assemble it, once you've tightened the last fitting the vacuum needs to go on (assuming theres no dry nitrogen pressure test) and once you close the gauges and shut off the vacuum pump you need to add the freon asap. A vacuum hold test with a dial type mechanical gauge is 100% waste of time.

I'm really not trying to be a dick, really, but if you can't figure out the stud thing and top bolt on your own, the chances of this being successful are pretty slim. Yes, it might blow "cold" as in better than 90 degrees out. But all this time and money it should be perfect.

That other guy gave good advice. Unfortunately most diy'ers can't follow that advice (wrong tools, etc, but this youtube video said.... etc)

You don't want to lose money on freon leaking out of the possibly leaking Shraeder valve, but none of the new seals have been pressure checked for proper installation.

 

no no I was gonna revacuum if I was able to remove the low pressure schraider valve. the U-boobers say you can't over vacuum.
I'd kindof like to swap a new low presurre schraider valve before proceding w/ the next vacuum. is there a special tool to remove this valve or is it builtin to the tube?

or are you saying since it held vacuum just to leave the old schraider valve?

I think your right about the steam not being steam but being oil from loose fittings (bc when unscrewing the yellow tube it was covered w/ pumps oil) however steam appeared to be coming from the black *** I was just peeking from inside at car on driveway though during yesterdays vacuum.
next vacuum will be from the vertical fitting w/ my adaptor, does it sound normal to only have about 5 minutes of steam during a one hour vacuum? I think the vertical fitting is the unleaky bc I never saw any oil on driveway.
is 1 hour of vacuum sufficient an half hour of holding -30vacuum sufficient? before recharge?

edit during the sealing washers swaps I noticed there is a flat side and a pronounced sticking out rounded side of the sealing washer so these washers have to be put on the correct way flat side on flat metal rounded side (kindof like the rounded side of a O-ring) on indentured side correct?

what do you think of recharging w/ old drive belt? hope to be done charging tomorrow, thanks sorry to be such a pita

 

dam I just had to monkey around w/ the high pressure schraider valve I must have boogered it up trying to remove it.
now I'm not getting the -30 as I was getting on two previous vacuums.this it pegged the gauge

]
now after monkeying w/ schraider valve she only goe's to like -24 this



apparently I need to replace the housing an high pressure schraider valve together. w/ 16mm an pliers.
before I recharge.
or did I booger up this high pressure valve from just attaching the gauge couplers? thanks for advicing.





https://www.google.com/search?q=gm+a...qtsP1rKf6AM_42

here is the pumps vertical fitting an my adaptor I had to use to make attachment



here's the pumps horizontal fitting which my yellow tube screwed directly on same size as my freon can priecer. once again sorry for being so ignorant.pumps instructions say to use vertical port.
dam I reinstalled the old AC drive belt didn't want to wait till Sunday now this valve crape dam.