Ryanols1on

iTrader: (1)

about how much hp will that add.. and will it be SUPER loud.. and is it inspection worthy?

KrisXpc

iTrader: (13)

As a former Texan i can tell you straight up that Longtubes and ORY will not pass emissions. But as a former Texan i can also tell you that Pablo at your local mexican resturaunt will know probobly 15+ places you can throw the guy that inspects your car a few extra peso, and you will be on your way without any hassle.

If you car is a stock Ws6 A4. Headers is sorta jumping the ball a little. i highly recomend you do basics first before headers. Reason i say this i can tell your new the the F-body. Althought changing headers is easy but time consuming. you may run into problems that you may not know how to fix yourself.

Take my advice on this and DO THIS FIRST!!

1. MSD 8.5 wires. (better spark, better your engine will run)
2. Lid with K&N Filter.
3. NGK TR55 Spark plugs. (once again the whole spark thing)
4. Slp loudmouth. You mentioned you wanted this exhaust.
5. ls1 Small block Gen 4 reading material. =]

Stock Ls1's sound amazing with Slp Lm exhaust, but with headers and a ory they are louuuuuuuud!!!

All that I listed its Very possible to stay under $500 if you look around a bit.


Good luck bud

darrensls1

I would buy:

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=672&catid=60

and

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=392&catid=58

Putting both of those in your car will make you a very, very, very, very happy person

Ryanols1on

iTrader: (1)

haha.. thanks for the advice guys.. iv had my car for 2 years.. but iv been in iraq for 1 of those.. and by the way.. im a 62B in the army.. which is a mechanic.. so anything not dealing with electronics will be simple for me to do.. i will definately look into these items.. thanks guys..

Ryanols1on

iTrader: (1)

what will the stall converter do for me?... and can i install it myself?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

A stall converter regulates the lockup between the engine and the trans/rear. If you don't know exactly how an automatic trans works, I'd suggest do a search or read a book about it, and you'll understand better. A higher stall number, like when someone says "I got a 3400 stall" means the engine won't fully lock up with the trans until 3400 rpms or higher. What that really does is lesson the amount of power going to the rear wheels, which will allow for a higher degree of traction. Like if you make 400hp at the crank, you wont have 400hp going to the rear until 3400 rpm (not counting drivetrain loss). I've never done it, but I'm sure you can do it yourself, being a mechanic already. I think you'll have to drop the entire trans, so you'll need a lift or plenty of stands, and a trans jack.

At least that's what I was told the converter does. I'm sure other people know more about it, but I'm a stick shift guy, so.....A post in the automatic trans forum will get you much more specific answers.

jpat1023

I'm glad all these members were so nice to help you. I personally would have told you to go read a sticky. So, here ya go: https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/361959-so-you-wanna-fast.html fast forward to Part C. Bolt-Ons

btw, I would get Pacesetter LT's and ORY, but I'm biased

darrensls1

I'll use my torque converter as an example to explain what it does and how it works. The stock torque converter has a stall speed of 1800 and a 1.6 STR. The 1800 refers to rpm's and STR stands for Stall Torque Ratio. When you punch the gas from a stop or a roll the rpm's will jump to 1800 and then climb from there. This is called flashing the converter.

Now my stall is a 3500 rpm with a 2.5 STR. So when I punch the gas I flash to 3500 rpm's and climb up from there. This particular torque converter has a shift extension of 4700 rpm's. That means when my car shifts into another gear the rpm's will drop down to 4700 and begin to climb back up from that point.

The STR refers to torque multiplication and this will primarily be useful (or harmful) when launching from a dead stop. The bigger the number the harder the car will launch. 1.6-1.9 is considered tame, 2.0-2.4 is considered hard hitting, 2.5 or higher is considered very hard hitting. If I were to try and launch hard with a 2.5 STR on street tires I would do little more then put on a smoke show and go sideways. Higher STR's also bring the need for stickier tires which is why I am currently running Nitto Drag Radials.

Ok, so I covered stall speed, STR and shift extension. Why is bigger then stock better? If you look at a stock LS1 dyno you'll see we make peak HP around 3500 rpm's and peak torque somewhere in the 4000's. This means that when you flash a stock stall to 1800 you're well below the motors powerband and thus make less power during the initial climb in rpm's. But with a 3500 stall you immediately go straight to the powerband with flash rpm's and stay there with the shift extension. You also can launch like a bat out of hell with sticky tires. Since we make most of our power up high in rpm's we want to spend as much time there as possible

The general rule of thumb is 10 rwhp = .1 faster in the quarter mile. Just replacing the torque converter with one like mine will knock .5 off your quarter mile time. Now you do NOT gain 50 rwhp (I wish Lol) but you do gain the equivelent of 50 rwhp's performace by getting half a second quicker through flash rpm's, STR and shift extension.

I hope that helped you understand it a little.

Ryanols1on

iTrader: (1)

yea.. that explained alot to me.. i will have to get that in the future.. but for now id like to get something that makes my car faster without messing with anything like that.. like bolt-ons or whatever.. thank you guys so much for your help.. means alot to me..

john563

iTrader: (17)

The tourque converter will make you faster.It may show less HP on the dyno,but it will make up for it om the track.Ill be honest I whent hedders first before the verter,but after I got the verter in my first thought was why didnt I do this a long time ago.So my vote goes to the verter first .

craz28

iTrader: (10)

one quastion, if u got headers ory and a catback then with a stall that will be mad loud from a stop. so if a cop is right near u and u launch like that cops will pull you over for excessive acceleration right? so how would i go about that?

darrensls1

It's like the old joke where a guy goes to a doctor and says:

"Doc, It hurts my arm if I move it like this. What's your advise?"

To which the Doctor replies:

"Then don't move it that way."

Seriously it'll depend on the catback as to how loud it really is. Put a hooker or SLP dual/dual in there and it'll be tame. Loudmouth, dynomouth, gmmg, cutout, ect is a whole different ball game. It'll also depend on the area as to how cool or uncool the cops are about loud muscle cars. My area is real cool but some places (especially California) have very strict LEOs.

I have a stall, LT's and an ORY so I can tell you from experience that if you drive and accelerate "normally" no one takes any real notice. You just need to pick and choose your moments carefully. If you drag race from every light it's just a matter of time. If you do it occasionally and "look before you leap" then you got very good chances of not getting into trouble.